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Long Term Spare HV Battery Storage

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Ed Carmack, Oct 28, 2013.

  1. Ed Carmack

    Ed Carmack New Member

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    Ok battery gurus, I need help. I have a spare HV battery which I am in the process of balancing. Need to store it indefinitely- until one of the 3 aging prii in the family throws the red triangle and goes limp. I read all sorts of stuff on storage of Nimh batteries. Some say do it 80% charged and periodically cycle, some say fully discharged and periodically cycle. Some say 40% SOC and periodically cycle. Some say freeze them while others say don’t. Everybody says cycle. I don’t want to cycle more often than absolutely necessary. I’d just about as soon swap my packs out periodically as do a cycle. Swap out obviously is more labor but a whole lot quicker. My schedule does not facilitate baby sitting the battery chargers.

    Here is what I propose and do feel free to shot holes in it. That is the reason I am putting it out.

    Proposed plan. After battery balance/reshuffle is complete, levelize the modules by standard method of parallel wiring of the modules. Keep it in a cool but not freezing place - as in basement.

    This is the potentially controversial part. Connect a regulated power supply to the entire pack with modules connected in parallel. Set the supply and let it maintain a 7.6 or so voltage on the entire pack. I am thinking that this will counteract the self discharge. No battery cycling planned.

    Is this a bad idea?
     
  2. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Maybe a bit of an overkill to keep it permanently connected, I've heard float isn't recommended for Ni cells. If you are going to all the bother of placing everything in parallel then I'd just keep it at about 40% and give it the occasional top up to compensate for leakage. The parallel storage will keep the cells reasonably balanced so I don't see any need to cycle it. Just cycle it a couple of times right before you put it back in service.
     
  3. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    I agree with uart. I would probably keep it higher than 40% though but that's 6 of one and a half a dozen of the other. I'd say 67.5% (cause that's where Toyota likes to keep it (and their engineers got paid a lot of money to figure that out. Additionally, they last a long time at that SOC)). Def not at 0%. That will kill the batteries quick.

    Other than that, I see no problem with your plan. I don't see a reason to leave it continously connected either. I would probably charge to 80%, let it self discharge to 40%, then charge to 80%. Or if I wanted to monitor more closely, I would charge to 75%, let is self discharge to 60%, then charge back to 75%. That's what I would recommend.

    The reason you're getting so many answers is because there is more than one way to do this (but def not zero and def not freezing).
     
  4. Ed Carmack

    Ed Carmack New Member

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    Uart and USN -thanks for the info.

    The reasoning for keeping the modules in parallel is first to levelize voltage/ SOC and second to facilitate the float charge. Use one regulated power supply (which is all I have) for the entire pack. However I am also leery of keeping them on float. From what I can tell from scattered online info is that self discharge is the enemy or at least one of them. Thought was to counteract it with a float but it may actually be detrimental. Don't know and have not been able to figure it out. There is some info on keeping NIMH batteries charged in standby for emergency lights and such. As I recollect the suggestion was to pulse charge instead of floating. In reality NiMh is not a good choice for those sorts of applications due to the relatively high self dc and also due to the need for smart charging. And also maybe the need for cycling them periodically. My thoughts for keeping them at a relatively low voltage is that I suspect that the self discharge rate drops with lower SOC. I actually don't know that this is the case and it very well may not be.

    Was hoping that someone had actually tried this and would weight in.

    A second question. How to determine SOC? I am guessing that 7.8 is around 80% with 7.5 being around 40. This is a guess and only a guess.
     
  5. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Now you asked the real can of worms question (How to determine SOC?). The truth of the matter is SOC cannot be determined by voltage alone. It is very complicated to truly determine SOC. First you have to determine capacity. Certainly you can use the engineering specs but those are for new batteries.

    In reality though, you don't need to dig deep into the weeds on this. I know you want to do what is right and keep these batteries good for a long time. So here's what I think you need to know (the down and dirty).

    1) The nominal voltage is 1.2V per cell or 7.2V per module. Most batteries do well when stored slightly above their nominal voltage. Panasonic recommends not float charging but pulse charging stored batteries when they get below 1.3V.
    2) Connecting them in ll is a fine idea and I see no problem with that.
    3) Overcharging and overdischarging are the worst thing you can do to these batteries.
    4) Float charging causes the battery to remain hot, heat is the enemy of any battery

    Those 4 points should def help you determine a good plan to store these batteries. If it were me, I would put them in parallel, charge to about 8.0-8.2 and monitor how long it takes for them to self discharge to below 7.8 (This should be a few weeks at least and maybe a few months. In colder weather it will be longer). Once it gets below 7.6, I would charge back to 8.2 and repeat.

    Disclaimer: I'm not an engineer and I'm not an expert (I do have experience with batteries though). I've never tried this with Prius batteries but I have tried it with drill and power tool batteries. It works excellent.

    PS: PC member BritPrius is an engineer. I suggest asking him. He is very helpful as well.
     
  6. Ed Carmack

    Ed Carmack New Member

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    OK Uart- good info.
    SOC by capacity. Being as I am in the process of balancing I know the capacities of each module. Average is about 5400 mahrs on discharge down to 6v following 3 rounds of cycling. I think that dc capacity is the one that really matters. So if I am shooting for a 80% SOC on final charge I go capacity X 0.8 x charging efficiency. whatever that be. Read somewhere that efficiency is near 100% up to around 70% and then it gets worse. So I can see that SOC is not readily determined at least not to great accuracy. Think I'll probably take the shotgun approach and use voltage like you said.

    Will take your advice and ask BritPrius to weigh in.

    thanks
     
  7. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    I don't think the exact SOC is ultra critical when storing. I've read the NiMH stores pretty well at mid range SOC. Apparently they don't like being stored dead flat (although NiCd does store fine that way) and storing at a high state of charge can increase calendar related aging a little bit. They also may have a temporary loss of capacity after storage that comes back after they're cycled a few times. Hence the reason for cycling them a few times before putting it back in service.

    Personally I think you'd get really good results storing them anywhere from about 1.24 to 1.28 volts per cell (7.4 to 7.7 volts per module). Just give them a bit of a charge periodically to bring them up to 7.7 (after resting) and monitor them every month or so to see how long it takes them to fall to 7.4.
     
  8. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Yeah I usually work on about 1.27 volts per cell (7.6 per module) as being somewhere around the 50% point. The discharge characteristics of Ni batteries are very flat around mid SOC so it's probably not very precise, but in this case I don't think it's too critical. You don't want really high SOC because it increases leakage (and apparently slow discharge via leakage can promote unfavorable crystal growth), and you don't want to allow them to go dead flat (under 1 volt per cell) either. But storing anywhere around mid SOC (doesn't have to be too precise) is fine.
     
  9. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    I think you are getting good advice here. My comment is to the use of pulse charging.

    I know from my testing that pulse charging can break up undesirable crystal growth (sulfation) in lead acid batteries, and it is a widely used technique now. I do not know about NiMH specifically, but I would imagine the result would be similar. The idea is that a crystalline layer no longer conducts DC electricity, but comprises a dielectric between two conductors, or essentially a capacitor. One way to get current to flow through a capacitor is generate fast rise time voltage pulses across it. The resulting current spikes will slowly interact with the surface of the crystals to knock off small bits and return them to the conductive solution. It is a slow but visible process in the lead acid cell case.

    Hopefully it is beneficial for NiMH in storage. It should permit storage at a lower SOC, if that would extend the shelf life.
     
  10. Ed Carmack

    Ed Carmack New Member

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    Thanks to everybody,

    Seems to me that NIMH batteries tolerate fairly variable storage conditions based upon the different schemes successfully used.

    Revised plan. Abandon the float charge idea. I might try it on a cell that is to weak to reuse as an experiment but it will probably be a long experiment before results are evident. Keep the entire pack in II, Nobody seems to have issue with this and also it should facilitate quickly returning the pack to service when needed as modules will stay levelized. I am also thinking that this will help keep modules with higher self discharge rates from going flat and having a reversed cell. It also will allow one voltage reading instead of 28 to keep an eye on things. Might attempt to keep pack at refrigerator temps but don't have a good plan on how to do that just yet. An assembled pack is too big and heavy for a refrigerator and also condensation might be an issue. With junk laying around think I might be able to put something together that will work not be a major construction project and also keep the pack good and dry. I like the idea of keeping he pack in a relatively low voltage range as that may reduce self discharge and the resulting crystalline growth, I am thinking 7.4 to 7.6 range although this may require more frequent charges. Charges are fairly quick. Discharges are slow as a prius in limp mode, So maybe this will not be to ornorous. Before returning to service discharge the pack to 6v and do a full charge, discharge back to around 7.8 v, levelize modules one last time and install.

    Shifting gears a bit. Being as I was in no particular hurry since this is a spare pack. I let it sit for 10 days after removal and measured module voltages again. Plotted out the final vs intial voltages ratio to see if I had any bad actors. 3 had self dc higher clearly higher than the rest. Two of these have in fact turned out to be troublesome, requiring extra cycles to restore capacity. One I will not reuse. Here is the anomalous data, cell number 1 had high self dc but is the strongest cell by capacity of the ones that I have balanced- It restored quickly; Don't think it was a reading error. I checked it several times. I will let them rest after finishing and check self dc again.