Changing Trans axle fluid this weekend.

I recommend leaving the pan alone and only draining and refilling with OEM T-IV fluid from the top. You might find it in local auto part stores. Maybe call around and ask?

Avi

 

Get 5 quarts of Toyota ATF T-IV at your local dealer.

Use a funnel and 3 ft. long hose. A hand pump which screws onto the bottle top is tiresome to use.

I would recommend removing and cleaning the pan and pan magnet. I think you'll find that it is quite nasty after 181K miles.

You'll need Loctite to apply on the pan bolts. The tightening torque is around 5-6 ft-lb IIRC.

 

I use a black plastic transmission funnel which comes with a very stiff black plastic ribbed extension. The total length is around 3 ft.

I position the funnel near the front of the inverter by the driver's side fender. Then I insert the end of the extension into the transaxle fill hole. The funnel will stay in position by itself as I pour the ATF in.

If you use a very flexible vinyl hose, you might need some help to keep the funnel and hose in place.

 

If you drop the pan and reuse the pan bolts you don't need more locktite. There is plenty of locktite on the bolts from the factory and they will never come loose on their own. Hardest part is tightening them, very easy to over-tighten and break the bolts.

Use a torque wrench and tighten only to 67 inch pounds, then go around and check again since the cork gasket compresses a bit.

 

Here is an excellent step by step on this procedure.

I almost always agree with AVI on everything but on this one, I have to say, I recommend removing the pan b/c that is the only way to get the crud/metal off the magnet on the g1. I know it should easily stay there forever but, I would highly recommend removing it. Just remember to pay close attention to the torque specs (67 in/lbs)on the pan b/c you can easily break those bolts.

Its really an easy procedure and the proper fluid was available at Advanced Auto Parts when I did mine (it wasn't Toyota brand but, it was ATF T-IV). Some on here are dead set on using only Toyota fluids and parts. I'm not. I have nothing against using Toyota stuff but I don't mind using equivalent products either. You make your own choice as I do not wish to sway you to either side.

Good luck and let me know if there are any problems with that guide.

PS: This procedure tells you to us WS tranny fluid but either T-IV or WS are sufficient. WS is the fluid originally used on the Gen II. T-IV is the fluid used on the Gen I. I used T-IV and have had no problems.

 

Just some thoughts based upon my experience:

• Have a clean, dry, water bottle to collect a sample. You don't have to get it analyzed but without a capture that opportunity is lost forever.
• I'm firmly in the drop-the-pan camp. Take a photo and consider a separate container to capture a sample and/or keeping the first 'clean paper towel' wipe in a plastic bag. We'll work with you on the analysis.
• Avoid AMSOIL due to 'yellow metal' wear. This may have been fixed since 2006 when I first saw the problem in subsequent oil analysis.
• Consider doing a 'cold-soak', roll-down test before changing the oil. This can give you insights about what changing the oil accomplished.
• Fan of Type T-IV as testing shows exceptionally low additives and excellent viscosity.
  • VERY experimental, Type WS, in progress.

Done right, it takes about an hour but it helps to have the car raised at least 12-18" if you don't mind laying on the ground. I fully endorse what everyone else has suggested and you'll find a lot of folks willing to share their 'lessons learned.'

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson

 

Amazing information, I have one question regarding where to dispose the old ATF, will car parts shops accept it like they do with engine oil?
Thanks.

 

Yes, no problem.

Bob Wilson

 

I've done it myself. Very straightforward, and easy to fill once you have the appropriate hose.

I found myself wondering if there is a aftermarket replacement plug that has a magnet attached. My Kia has this, and I suspect it's common these days. Smart. Instead of dropping the pan you just pull and clean the plug.

 

A magnet will help with the ferrous material but do nothing for the non-ferrous material. We've also seen a significant amount of sealant beads and bead material in the pan. It really needs to be dropped and cleaned. FYI, the existing magnet is fairly small so make sure it goes back.

Bob Wilson

 

24mm, but 15/16" works as well.

Avi

 

I have a question about the filling process, - what if someone put the tube in, and when it reaches to 5.6 quarts the fluid starts to spill out from the filling hole, but the dude forgot where he put the refill plug, and by the time he found it, the fluid stopped spilling out?
The question is whether you are supposed to close the filling screw while it still spills, or when it stops spilling?

Thanks.

 

When it stops spilling.

John (Britprius)

 

The transaxle ATF fluid should start to overflow after ~5 US quarts for Classic Prius. Close the fill plug after the fluid stops dripping out of the fill hole.

 

Sorry, I meant 4.6, is this normal?

 

I believe that 4.9 US quarts is the spec capacity for the Classic transaxle ATF.