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Heater 'growling' when engine is stopped

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by SquareWheels, Nov 29, 2013.

  1. SquareWheels

    SquareWheels "15kW or stealth" driver

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    This autumn a new noise has appeared in my UK 2004 Prius. When the heater is calling for heat and the engine is not running (i.e. coolant temp is above 63degC), a sort of 'growling' noise can be heard somewhere inside the heater core or beyond. A low-pitched rattling/rumbling which sounds rather like coolant mixed with air-bubbles going through a pump.

    The only change there's been that might account for this is that I had Jemca Toyota in Bracknell carry out the hybrid coolant pump replacement (campaign 2509L). But I thought the heater was only fed by engine coolant, not hybrid coolant?

    You can hear this noise stop when the engine starts, and restart when the engine stops. The Haynes manual seems to indicate that there's a pump for just this eventuality.

    Any thoughts or ideas?

    Richard (squarewheels)
     
  2. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Check coolant level in radiator. Be sure to remove the cap ONLY when it is cold. Don't go by the reserve bottle, but the actual radiator. The radiator should be full to the neck. If it is not full, that means there is air in the system and that you have a leak.

    If it is full, then chances are there is another problems elsewhere, but I do suspect air in the system and low coolant in the radiator. Also, that would have nothing to do with the inverter pump swap. As you said, two separate systems.
     
  3. SquareWheels

    SquareWheels "15kW or stealth" driver

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    Many thanks for replying so quickly. Good point... just went outside (with headtorch, it's nighttime here in Blighty :cool:) and looked. The coolant was about one inch below the filler-neck's top; the level rose if I squeezed the hose at the right-hand end of the radiator.

    I've topped up the coolant-reservoir 3 times (350g each) in nearly 4 years / 55,000 miles, I think it weeps out around the coolant-pump seal (but in a manner that I took Hobbit to suggest is not cause for concern).

    What might I look at next?

    Is it worth investing in the Mini VCI / Techstream (as mentioned by Britprius) in order to bleed the engine coolant properly?

    Many thanks!
     
  4. Joe 26

    Joe 26 Member

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    Try driving at highway speed with the heater on econ and max hot. Recheck the coolant in the bottle afterwards. That should get the last little pockets of air out of the system.
    Unfortunately, its all too common for a shop to not get all of the air out of the cooling system when refilling.
    You should not need to buy a techstream to bleed the engine cooling system.

    If in fact, the dealer only opened the inverter coolant side, then it could be just that the coolant was low due to a leaking engine coolant pump.
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Do you see pinkish deposits on the air conditioner compressor below the engine coolant pump? Also look at the interior of the coolant pump pulley for deposits.

    If yes, the coolant pump bearing is leaking excessively and the coolant pump should be replaced now.
     
  6. SquareWheels

    SquareWheels "15kW or stealth" driver

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    I'll try that – thanks. Seems probable that there is a bit of air in there somewhere.


    Some coolant-crust on the underside of the air intake hose and on various other parts that are in the line of fling :) . In nearly 5 years that I've owned the car it's always flung a little line of coolant-crust onto the inside of the bonnet – not much – and as the level is healthy currently and I only added a total of 1 litre in all that time, I don't sense that the pump is deteriorating. As Hobbit said, it's better that a small amount weeps past the seal and lubricates it than the seal run unlubricated; I ought to adjust the tension on the pulley and see if this reduces (further still!) the coolant-consumption.

    But if it's pulling air in through there as the engine cools, then that's not so good. Maybe that's happening?
     
  7. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The Mini VCI is not a requirement for bleeding the air from the rad, but it can help. I have tried to send you a Private message, but you need to have 5 posts before I can send it. Put another post up thanking people for there help and you will have five posts.

    John (Brtprius)
     
  8. SquareWheels

    SquareWheels "15kW or stealth" driver

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    :) Thanks John, and indeed thanks Patrick Joe & dorunron for your wisdom.

    Richard (Squarewheels)
     
  9. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Sorry I still do not seem to be able to send you a PM.
    The Mini VCI is a service tool rather than a monitoring tool that is the main object of the Scangauge.
    The VCI is capable of bleeding or flushing the brakes,and linear valve offset calibration, zero point calibration of the steering, and carrying out active tests on most of the Prius systems and recording the results, making it an invaluable piece of equipment paying for it's self the first time it is used.
    I am not in any way knocking the scan gauge, a grate piece of equipment, but not designed to do the same job.

    John (Britprius)
     
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If sufficient coolant is leaking so that it is being deposited on the interior of the bonnet (hood) then that constitutes an excessive leak from the coolant pump bearing. The engine coolant pump is not expensive - just replace it (as well as the serpentine belt and possibly the idler pulley) and be done. I've recently posted on how to do that, if you care to DIY.
    How to replace engine coolant pump and thermostat | PriusChat
    Since you do not have a North American model you don't have to worry about the coolant heat recovery system. Just open the drain cocks on the radiator and engine block to fully drain the engine coolant.

    I would further say that having to add 1 litre of fluid over a five-year period is unusual as the non-North American model engine coolant fluid capacity is probably around 5-6 litres total. Air clearly is entering your engine's coolant system since you find that the fluid level in the radiator is an inch below the top of the radiator neck.

    My idea of a normal drop in engine coolant is that the coolant reservoir level might decline by 1/4" or less, over a five-year period.
     
  11. hill

    hill High Fiber Member

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    Patrick - wasn't there a service bulletin on these years ago?
    it seems that way iirc.
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I am not aware of a service bulletin on the 2G engine coolant pump.
     
  13. hill

    hill High Fiber Member

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  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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  15. SquareWheels

    SquareWheels "15kW or stealth" driver

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    Thanks for that, John. I like the idea of the Mini VCI tool anyway and at the sort of price mentioned (and WinXP already virtualised on my Mac!) it seems an obvious thing to go for. Good tip!
     
  16. SquareWheels

    SquareWheels "15kW or stealth" driver

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    Fair enough, and many thanks for posting the writeup - I shall add it to my worksheet of things to do in due course. I guess at 10 years it's a reasonable time to change the serpentine belt anyway before it ossifies. Preventative maintenance always good. :)

    BTW I wish I'd been reading a related post from you before I took the splash guard off recently (to help with changing the WS ATF, a little late at 70k but it wasn't too thin/filthy/particle-y) – I spent ages failing to understand the 'square' plastic fixer that has 'ears' in the wheel-arch!

    You've hit on one of my main bugbears of owning a UK Prius – things we can't look up and have to guess/infer! The Haynes manual, the Bentley manual, everything at techinfo... it's all for USA Priuses, and so refers to the CHS tank and to rear drum brakes (UK Prius has discs at all 4 corners).


    Ah. Again, fair point so I'll be guided by that. So with the radiator-cover off and removing the radiator-cap (the one that undoes by about 160 degrees) what you're saying is that the coolant should be right there, lapping over into the overflow tube towards the centre of the car, not sitting an inch down the narrow neck that leads down to the elbow by the top of the radiator?

    Many thanks for your kind assistance. Richard (Squarewheels)
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Richard,
    I agree that fastener is very difficult to remove.

    See if this Toyota Europe website is helpful, regarding repair manual info:

    Toyota Service Information



    Yes, the coolant level should remain at the very top of the radiator neck.
     
  18. SquareWheels

    SquareWheels "15kW or stealth" driver

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    Thanks Patrick. The fastener is easier once I saw what it should have looked like before I tried to destroy it with pliers :) Thanks for the link to the EU website. I'll try adding coolant to the radiator neck as a stop-gap measure.
     
  19. Mr.Electric

    Mr.Electric Member

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    There is an electric pump for just that eventuality. The gen 2 has 3 electric coolant pumps in total.
    Prius Hybrid: I have a 2008 toyota prius hybrid with a heating - JustAnswer

    See diagram down the page
    Check the pumps and the flow control valve for leaks before digging into the mechanical pump.
     
  20. SquareWheels

    SquareWheels "15kW or stealth" driver

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    Thanks for that. Seems very probable that air is getting into the heater core circuit and making the 'growling' noise in the heater-pump when it runs. Will inspect all.