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Another DTC question

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by emanboulay, Feb 7, 2014.

  1. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Hi everyone,

    I'm trying to see if there's something I missed or maybe something I can do before bringing the car to the dealer.

    The car: Prius 2006 with 96K miles.

    The problem: Break, ((!)) and ABS lights on with audible alarm.

    What I've tried: resetting the codes with #4 and #13 and pressing the break pedal several times. Checking the 4 ABS relays, checking every fuse under the hood and in the car. Fuse and relays all seemed ok.

    While doing the reset procedure several times the battery gave up on me. It was 4 years old. Got it checked and replaced since it had a bad cell. Was hoping that this would put an end to this issue but no luck I cannot reset the codes.

    SRS 43 and 32
    ((!)) 57
    ABS 42

    Don't know what they mean.

    The car is sleeping outside in the cold (I'm up north)and last week I decided to go to the carwash since it was sunny and somewhat hotter. Maybe this is what caused the problem?

    I had a similar problem last year and got the brakes cleaned and put the battery on the charger and got away with it. This time I don't see what else I can do before throwing the towel.

    If anyone has an idea feel free to write!

    Thanks

    Etienne
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i think someone in another thread took the car to the carwash in cold weather, and when they took it to the dealer, it sat overnight in the heated garage and was fine the next day.
     
  3. jdcollins5

    jdcollins5 Senior Member

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    SRS 43 and 32
    ((!)) 57
    ABS 42

    Where did you see the above? These are not normal DTC codes.
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    ((!)) 57 means that the brake actuator assembly needs to be replaced, since the hydraulic pressure is too low.

    I suggest that you should have your local Toyota dealer confirm this, and keep in mind that the car is unsafe to drive in its current condition.
     
  5. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    That's the next move I was thinking of. Thanks
     
  6. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    those were with the jumper in 4 & 13 and from the blinking lights on the dashboard. I counted more than once to be sure.
     
  7. jdcollins5

    jdcollins5 Senior Member

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    OK. After Patrick's response I realized this.
     
  8. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Just back from the Toyota dealer. Does not look good. DTCs 1252 and 1256 that point to a 3k $ bill. I left the car for further analysis. Should have some feedback later this week. The technician is one of the best around here but he has never changed the ABS pump (part # 44510).

    He checked the 2 main ABS relays but found nothing.

    Is there an easy way for him to check the pump before doing anything else?

    I'm thinking I may bring the car back home and try ebay and change the part myself if he concludes that this is the problem. I think some of you have done this with success. I will have to search PC once again to get some more information.

    Great thing PC exists with all you guys giving a hand!

    Etienne
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I agree that it sounds like the brake actuator needs to be replaced. You could install a used part, then tow the car back to the dealer for the brake bleeding process. Or, buy mini VCI and do the brake bleeding as well.
     
  10. Sarge

    Sarge Senior Member

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    Hi Etienne,

    Are you in Quebec/Ontario by chance? With a French name (and the $ following the dollar amount ;) ), I am guessing you are Quebecois... the reason I mention it is that I know a great independent Prius expert in Toronto who can surely fix your issue for much less than the dealer... the biggest issue would be getting the car there, but even getting it towed you would be far ahead if the repair bill is that steep.

    FYI, he rebuilt my 2006 HV battery for me last year (May) for approx 1/3 the price of a new one (including same 1 year warranty a new battery would come with), and have done 30K KM since and running great; just passed 300K KM on the odo last week... anyway, I can only say good things about him and his work.

    Anyway, let me know if you want his contact info.

    Cheers!

    Kevin
    (A former Montrealer)
     
  11. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Thanks for the tip Serge. You are correct, I'm in Trois-Rivières (between Québec City and Montreal)!

    So I got the call from Toyota a couple of minutes ago... 3200$. There are 3.5 hrs included for the diagnosis. Jeeee, my daughter bought an Echo for that price!

    Toyota does not want to do the job if I bring them the part. So my other options are:

    1- DIY with used pump at let's say $300 + bleeding
    2- DIY with new part available in Kitchener at 1350$ + shipping + bleeding
    3- local shop at $68/hr.
    4- buy another 06-09 Prius and keep this one for parts.

    Toronto is far and there's Rob Ford! (Just kidding)

    If I could convince myself that the DIY is viable and that I won't finish the job with a couple of bolts still in my hands, I would go with that option.

    Another thing that bothers me, is there another problem that caused this issue and that may cause it again?

    Thanks again Serge and Patrick
     
  12. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Sorry not Serge but Kevin!
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I suggest you subscribe to techinfo.toyota.com so you can see what is involved. It is actually a pretty big job. Basically you need to remove the cowl tray (which holds the windshield wiper motor) that runs along the rear of the engine compartment for access to the firewall and brake actuator. You'll also need to remove the inverter and the heater core coolant pump.

    Then you'll need to remove numerous brake lines that bolt to the actuator, and finally remove the actuator itself.

    A complete job requires the brake actuator resistor (hiding behind the passenger airbag) to be replaced, so most of the dashboard has to be disassembled. Apparently the resistor is matched to the specific brake actuator.

    It is certainly possible that another problem caused the issue, but the brake actuator assembly is the most likely cause.
     
  14. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Hi Patrick,

    If I recall, not changing the resistor may lead to some noise but will not affect drivability. Is that correct?

    I did read Galaxee's post with pictures of the job and am nervous about going forward, but at that price I think it is worth the try. Just called the local used part dealer and I could get the part tomorrow for $150.

    I will consider your suggestion for techinfo.toyota.com.

    Thanks

    Etienne
     
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I believe you are correct. Certainly the prospect of saving ~$3K would motivate me to DIY. Make sure you buy the correct tools for the brake line work, you don't want to damage any of the fittings.
     
  16. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Back home with the car. $300 for the diagnosis.

    Question: Are their different mini VCIs? If so, which one should I choose?

    Thanks
     
  17. Rich12

    Rich12 Member

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    Reset the DTCs via jumper and sell car ASAP.
     
  18. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Decided to go with:

    Fotga Newest V8.00.034 MINI VCI for TOYOTA TIS Techstream Diagnostic Cable & Software


    Thanks
     
  19. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Decided to go with:

    Fotga Newest V8.00.034 MINI VCI for TOYOTA TIS Techstream Diagnostic Cable & Software


    Thanks
     
  20. emanboulay

    emanboulay Junior Member

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    Wanted to let you know that I finally got the job done. Took a while as we had a pretty cold spring and the car was sitting under a car shelter.

    It was easier than I thought. I read a lot of info on this forum and looked at the procedure before starting. Bought the Techstream kit for bleeding.

    Once you get around at disconnecting the electrical connectors (all have different ways to lock and unlock), the rest went pretty smoothly. Reassembly went better than expected.

    Bleeding was not so hard. Lack of experience made it longer, but in a garage with the car up and all wheels off, can't imagine taking 90 minutes going through the bleeding process (that's what the Toyota tech told me).

    Had the 12V go dead twice while doing this procedure. Did not have the right battery charger. Also, the computer lost communication with the car a couple of times, which meant starting over many steps as there are no "skip" option in the software. Finally, my computer's antivirus gave me some trouble as it detected malware each time I started the software. Had to "repair" the software driver twice to get the thing to work and turned off the antivirus.

    Things I had on my side to successfully get this job done was:

    1- Had a second car so I was not depending only on the Prius;
    2- I have some experience working on cars. Not a professional but not a complete neophyte;
    3- Access to procedures and Priuschat.

    Can easily imagine coming out of the Toyota dealer feeing you have no choice other than spending $3k on your Prius. They don't make it easy on you either, making you feel irresponsible for not letting them do the job.

    What about the money?

    - They wanted $3450 txs incl. for the diagnosis and the repair.
    - Cost me around $300 for the used part, prestone, brake fluid and Techstream) + $300 for the diagnosis = $600.

    Thanks everyone!


    Etienne
     
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