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Buying a 06 with 144 k miles

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by joeman, Feb 18, 2014.

  1. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    This guy is on here. He's currently driving a 2012 prius v and going on 300k miles.

    There's always a chance of transmission failure, the car has 144k miles. But the parts are cheap even if it does fail. Any component can fail at high miles.

    SM-N900P ?
     
  2. joeman

    joeman Member

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    I understand about about transmission failure on older cars.
    From here in N.Carolina, I visit a friend in Charleston, S. Carolina.
    Takes about 4.5 hrs one way. I would hope that if the transmission was to fail,it would give me fair warning. There are some parts of S.C. On I-95 that are pretty desolate, like Manning, would not want to break down there.
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I just finished a transaxle swap on a 2005 with 152k miles. Mg2 failure. Not sure the fluid was the cause, it was the original

    SM-N900P ?
     
  4. joeman

    joeman Member

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    How much was the parts?
     
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I got it for 250. But most are around 400 at parts outlets or salvage yards

    SM-N900P ?
     
  6. joeman

    joeman Member

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    Can you use a transaxle from a newer model in the Gen 2 cars?
    Did the transaxle give you lots of warning, like weeks?
     
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Wasn't my car, it failed from an out of state trip. Probably over heated. I would suggest a part from a late model 2007 or newer. There is a tsb for these transaxle from 2004 to early 2007. I got an exact 2005 replacement, only found out about the tsb after I purchased

    SM-N900P ?
     
  8. joeman

    joeman Member

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    Not for sure what a tsb is, maybe a connection on Priuschat?
    Thanks again for your help.
    If I buy car, you will see me post on here from time to time.
    Hopefully the transaxle will last a long time.
    Seller say most of the miles are on 95 between N.C. And Fla.
     
  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Technical service bulletin from Toyota to address issues

    SM-N900P ?
     
  10. joeman

    joeman Member

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    Not for sure where my other post went, new at this, hehehe.
    Own car now, Yeaaaaa!
    Was thinking about changing plugs in this car this weekend, any tips on changing,I have a basic manual. I have changed them in my 06 tundra, and other cars I have owned.
    What is the torque for the plugs and should I get dealer plugs?
    Also with the cabin filter and the engine air intake filter, if I go to local parts store and buy OEM,
    am I getting decent filters?
    After car sit overnight, I noticed there was no coolant in the top front plastic tank.
    Is that strictly a expansion tank or should it be a certain leval dead cold?
     
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You probably won't notice the difference in the engine and cabin air filters, buy a quality national brand and you should be ok.

    The plugs you will commonly find at the discount parts stores will be the NGK (4996) IFR5T11

    The engine coolant reservoir should not be empty. This would indicate you have a leak somewhere, it's most likely in the engine water pump. It's the pump that's driven by the serpentine belt. Look around the pulley and see if there's some pinkish residue, if you see it, it's from your water pump leaking.

    The leak isn't something you have to address right away, just make sure the coolant is topped off and find a convenient time to change the pump. Use Toyota Super Long Life Fluid from the dealer, about $23 dollars a gallon.
     
  12. joeman

    joeman Member

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    Not for sure how long the coolant has been low, just picked car up yesterday.
    The pre purchase inspection didn't say anything. So I just pulled the main radiator cap off, and if there is not any coolant at all showing. There is a little coolant at the very bottom off the neck below the cap.
    I operated ICU briefly and didn't see anything around water pump housing. Gonna let it set, take my Tundra to room and pick up coolant at dealer. Though I would then top it off and run ICE longer and look for leaks. Could it be the sellers overlooked it for so long it just went down own it's on, without leaking?
     
  13. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Look in the radiator first and see if there is pink fluid in there. If not, top it off. The coolant reservoir that's next to it should have a "low" and "full" mark on it. It's on the bottom half of the reservoir.

    The leaking water pumps don't leak large amounts of fluid, it's just seeping some fluid, which cakes up into a pinkish residue around the pulley. You can't miss it if it's leaking. This is a common problem with the Prius, no need to be alarmed. The part will cost you about $60-$70 at the Toyota parts counter or you can buy a similar quality one on Amazon for about $44.
     
  14. ursle

    ursle Gas miser

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    Did you do carfax and did you run the vin tru Toyota's website?

    The coolant reservoir wasn't empty last night?
    You had visually noticed the amount of coolant in the reservoir prior to this morning?
     
  15. joeman

    joeman Member

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    If there was enough coolant in radiator it would come all the way up to fill cap, right ?
    If there is any in radiator,it is only showing in the very bottom of neck below cap, may be some that is collected and coolant level is below that. So coolant needs to go in with everything cold and fill radiator to top, then fill plastic tank to low mark, is that right?0
    Seems like I would have got some warning on driving car home yesterday afternoon.
    Nothing on slab.

    That's the thing, the first time I saw car was at sellers on Sat, hard to visually remember to look at everything, then it was inspected Mon. So when sellers met me at Credit Union yesterday, didn't bother to look, being inspection didn't flag it.
    Carfax and VIN was done.
    Has been parked since late yesterday afternoon.
     
  16. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I would just top off your car with fluid if it's low. If you take the radiator cap off and you can see fluid, even if it's not at the very top of the neck, it should be ok. I think you are a bit over paranoid about this car, just drive it. Worry about the maintenance in 1000 miles or so, after you get a feel of the car.
     
  17. joeman

    joeman Member

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    Your right JC, but still will wait a day before driving me want to top off first.
    I think the sellers were slack and have not checked it ,
    After I top off tomorrow I will drive it, you can count on that.
    Thanks to all.

    Still looking for info on experience changing plugs on one of these bad boys?
     
  18. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Since I just passed 40000 miles, I thought it would be a good time to swap out the spark plugs. Now, I know that the iridium plugs should be good for 120000 miles, but I was far more worried about the plugs being "welded" in place by that time, so out they came.

    Overall, not too hard to do. Basic steps are as follows:

    Disconect negative battery terminal (Personally, I'm not sure why, but the manual has this step). This can be a little bit difficult to get to, but a 10mm box end wrench did work.

    Remove the relay box above the plugs and move it out of the way. Here I used a 10mm socket with a 2inch extension.

    Disconnect the wires going to the ignition coils. This can be a bit difficult, as you have to press pretty hard on the lever thingy to get it to release. I had to use a small flat screwdriver on one of them to "help out a bit."

    Remove the bolts holding each ignition coil (1 per). Again, a 10mm socket with extension. I only had a 2in extension. A 1 inch extension or a deep 10mm socket probably would have worked better.

    Pull off the ignition coils.

    Remove and replace each plug. Torque to 13 ft-lbs. These were a bit difficult to remove, so I'm glad I did it now. There was little wear on the plugs themselves, and they had discolored to a light grey. Here, use a 5/16 spark plug socket with an extension. I used a 6 inch extension which was a bit long and made it a bit tricky to get the plugs in and out, a 4 inch extension would probably be just right. I did not use any anti-sieze lubricant. The Toyota manual didn't say either way, and I had read a few bad things about it on the internet, so I went without.

    Replace the ignition coils. Replace the bolts holding them. Torque to 82 in-lbs.

    Reconnect the ignition wires. This is far easier than removing them. Just slide them on until you hear a click.

    Replace the relay box. and torque to 53 in-lbs.

    Reconnect negative battery terminal. Reset auto window, radio presets, and clock.

    Clean up and test drive. As would be expected, no change in performance, but that's not why I did it.

    Time from start to finish was about an hour. Cost was a little over $40 for the 4 plugs (part number 90919-01217, and $10.37 each from a local dealer).

    Just thought I'd write it up in case anyone else is thinking of doing it themselves.

    Thanks,
    Shawn

    Read more: http://priuschat.com/threads/spark-plug-replacement.20246/#ixzz2uZY3G500
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  19. Technigogo

    Technigogo Member

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    For comparison sake, here is one in Austin, TX:

    2007 Toyota Prius with leather OBO

    Good luck on your negotiations! (find the stuff wrong with it and offer them $5000 or 5500, they will likely "meet you in the middle" since that's the most popular negotiation tool private sellers know)
     
  20. joeman

    joeman Member

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    Topped off coolant today with Toyotas best brew, was a pint down.
    Seems to be holding .
    Took a close look at water pump today, very clean, I can see gasket where water pump mates up to ICE. It has two little tabs sticking out as part of gasket.
    All really clean and dry,I bet the pump was replaced.