Front brake pad change

The front and rear shocks are easy to remove from the car. Surprisingly the rears are more trouble because of having to remove trim panels in the rear of the car to get at the top mounts. The problem comes with removing the springs from the shocks as spring compressors are required. If you are not confident in removing the springs your local workshop could do it for you (does not have to be the Toyota dealer) as they are much the same as many other cars. The downside of this is you do need transport to take the shocks with springs to the workshop.

John (Britprius)

 

John, want to make a trip to Arizona I thought I read that for the front the wiper motor and cowl has to come off and then more stuff behind that. But back to the front shock and spring you can actually take the shock out with the spring attached and then just take that to a shop , did I understand that right.?

 

Yes that's correct. From memory:- Three nuts on top of suspension tower, two bolts holding base of shock to top of front hub, unclip brake pipe (without touching hydraulics) and disconnect anti roll bar link (sway bar). These are not in order of work, but as they came to mind.
The rears once you get the trim out of the way:- Three fasteners at the top (inside the car) and one at the bottom of the shock.
This all assumes you have the car supported safely. Do not undo the center nuts on the top of the suspension!!!! front or rear.

John (Britprius)

 

My following two strings may be of interest to you:
Hints Regarding Replacement of 2G Front Struts | PriusChat
Replaced Rear Shocks | PriusChat

Don't be afraid of the coil springs, they are actually pretty easy to compress and remove if you use a decent compressor like the one pictured in my photos, or better. The Prius is not a sports car and has a relatively soft suspension so the coil springs are relatively easy to compress.

 

all good to know, thanks John and Patrick

 

today is the day to do the front pads, shocks and struts soon.
thanks .

So one last time just disconnect the 12 volt battery, wait at least 5 min. then start the brake job.

no need to pump the brakes if I wait , is that correct or do I still pump brakes to remove any left over current /voltage for the piston does not come out of the caliper, or will waiting before working on it drain it?



then when done with brake job reconnect battery , no need to pump brakes as the actuator will do it for me.?

take it for a test drive and bed the brakes.


hope for no flashing lights.

 

After disconnecting the 12V battery, I suggest that you pump the brake pedal a few times to use up any residual electric charge remaining in the brake power supply (which is a large bank of electrolytic capacitors.)

After you are done installing the new brake pads, I suggest you pump the brake pedal a few times again, prior to reconnecting the 12V battery, to take up any slack between the caliper piston and the new pads.

Then, when you reconnect the 12V battery, there should be no reason for the skid control ECU to log DTC.

 

Great Patrick thank you.
out to the garage.

 

When you reconnect the battery make sure the steering is strait ahead, "on odd occasions this has caused problems with the VSC system if the wheels are not" and you will have to go through the start up procedure twice before the car will be made ready.

John (Britprius)

 

Thanks John, I will make sure the wheels are straight. one side down now for the other.

 

Thanks to everyone.
Front brakes are done, no abs lights on. I guess it would have come on right away if there was a problem?

took it around the block, went up to 43 mph and did a couple hard stops, worked flawless.

I appreciate the help.

Craig

 

now to re set window and radio stations . anything else I am forgetting to re set?

 

When you say you did a couple of hard stops was that in neutral?

John (Brtprius)

 

no , it was in drive
should I have done this in neutral?

 

Yes. In drive regen braking is used, the brake pads will only be used below 7 mph. In neutral it forces the use of the normal hydraulic brakes to bed them in. This is most important, when the braking feels good in neutral you are done.

John (Britprius)

 

sounds good , I will do the bedding again. thanks