Replace or Cut Rotors:

Gorilla, I did do it myself. Getting to the hub was not a big deal. However, getting the hub out of the steering knuckle is a lesson in patience I live in N. IL and the public works must own salt company stock

Purchase a new dust shield.. you can find them online for $15 and it's well worth it over trying to straighten the old one out.

Here is the procedure the way I did it:
1. Secure wheels with chocks and jack up front of car
2. Remove wheel
3. Remove brake caliper(14 mm I believe) and support(I use a "S" hook and hang it off strut).
4. Remove brake pad carrier(17 mm I believe)
5. Rotor should just come off… if rusted on, a little love tap will loosen it
6. You need to take the axle nut off(30 mm). It is staked in the keyway. I used a punch between the axle and nut and hammered it till it bent the staking up. Make sense? Some people cut it off and buy new. I reused mine.
7. Remove the speed sensor(10 mm I believe). Be gentle.
8. Once your axle is loose, push it back and from behind, you'll need to loosen the CV/speed sensor dust shield(not the brake rotor dust shield). I used a flat screw driver. Be gentle as you need to reuse and it's thin metal. Again, if you don't know what I'm talking about, I can point it out on a pic.
9. Remove the 4 bolts holding the wheel hub. You'll need to push the axle back to give you easier access. *Having both wheels up in the air will allow you to turn the wheels to allow easier access to some of this. Do not turn the car on, just turn the wheel.*
10. Now the hard part. Mine were very corroded and welded to the knuckle arm. I used a combination of air hammer with chisel and hand chisel with BFH(Big F… Hammer). Again, turn the wheel so your able to hit from outside the wheel well. I kept going back and forth, hitting it from behind, in front and on top. Then went made myself lunch and came back and attacked it again! Finally got her out(was same for both sides)
11. I used a wire wheel on die grinder and cleaned up the corrosion inside the wheel hub area and also the mating surface on the outside. *don't be alarmed if you gauged the steering knuckle in a couple of spots. *
12. Apply some anti-seize and reinstall everything in reverse. Don't forget to install the new dust brake dust shield and also the CV shield make sure to align the speed sensor hole.

Torque everything to specs. Don't forget to stake the wheel bearing nut. Here are the torque specs: Front wheel hub - bearing, removing and installing - Tech - Bentley Publishers Support

Hope this helps!

 

Couple of points...

1. turning vs replacing is also vehicle depends IMHO. My 1 ton chevy vans eat up rotors. Once they start warping, time to replace. The Prius is very easy on the rotors unless you are very hard on the brakes all the time. I see no issue in turning them if within specs.

2. Turning does a couple of things. It trues them up and also, gives a better bite for the pads. Rotors start to glaze after a while. Nothing wrong with taking that off and giving the pads a nice fresh surface to bite/mate against.

I turned my rotors and have driven about 200 miles since.. my brakes feel much better even tho my pads are the ones I installed over 20k miles ago

 

Not a great idea, and it is what I did originally. You want that glaze to be removed so the new pads have a better surface to bite against. When I installed my new pads 20k miles ago, I took a die grinder with sanding disc to scuff up the rotor a bit(not much). My brakes just didn't feel like they were biting as hard/smooth/consistent. Now that I cut the rotors, the feel is much better!