Brake Fluid Test Strips

Do the brakes employ copper tubing? Or aluminum? Maybe there's no copper??

All the tubes leading into the master cylinder on ours look to be aluminum, the end couplings as well. We've got a Honda Civic in the garage right now as well, it's hard to tell: it's lines are painted black, but look to have aluminum end couplings.

 

They are made of "zinc plated" double wall rolled and brazed steel with double flared ends. The nuts are made of plated steel.

 

Specialty brake lines are made annealed stainless steel or a copper-nickel alloy called monel.

 

Measuring copper in solutions sounds more like a radiator coolant test than a brake fluid test.

 

The amount of copper has to do with the corrosion of steel which releases copper from the brazing metal that "wets" the area between the two layers of steel and it's inner edge.


Most all radiators are now aluminum, not copper or brass. The water needs to be a little acidic to protect aluminum.

The reaction between aluminum and hydrogen in hydroxides releases molecular hydrogen. The aluminum combines with the -OH hydroxide and forms a white powdery compound called an aluminate. Sodium hydroxide or lye forms sodium aluminate.

Litmus paper is the best test. It is NOT that effective, however, because the "pink" dye in Toyota coolant might give a false reading.

 

Good explanation here:

 

But still confusing about the copper......

 

Moisture is where the focus should be.

 

IMHO both a corrosion test and a moisture test are necessary. I say this because:
1. Total brake failure on my old Valiant was due to brake line corrosion leading to a burst brake line and complete failure of the single master cylinder brake system when approaching a red light.
2. Total brake failure on my Saturn was due to moisture in lines turning to steam and vapor-locking both the front and rear braking systems in stop and go traffic on I66 on a hot summer day.
Both failures were unpleasantly exciting. I very definitely desire to avoid both corrosion and absorbed water vapor issues with brake systems on my current cars. Just sayin.

 

Unless there are long term compatibility issues between the brake fluid and component materials (poor engineering), corrosion usually results from moisture in the system. This also effects boiling point and compress-ability. While degradation of the fluid is also use incurred, you can not beat father time with water. Keep it simple and just flush the system every 2 to 3 years. I'm sure some arm chair internet Prius expert is going to argue this one too, but the research has been done and the information is out there. DOT 3 doesn't care what vehicle it is in.

Your car, your choice, best wishes.