sfprankster's (mis)adventures modding a 2014 Prius Model Three

No change in output since I installed them. I use the same LED's in the door lights as for the license plates. If you go back a few pages in this thread, you'll see the output of the door lights when I first inatalled them. The last set of pics is from the opposite door just a few nights ago. Same brightness as before.

I've run VLEDS in my Civic Si for several years without having a single LED burn out.

 

Ruh roh....

Received EMS tracking information on an order of new badges from Japan. Should be here early next week...


As an added bonus, a second set is on the way too...

 

The camera settings are making the lights have a blue hue.They are much more white light to the eye.

 

The debadge/rebadge (mis)adventure continues...

This (mis)adventure began last Tuesday, in anticipation of a couple of deliveries from Japan. Personally, I've never liked the stock chrome/blue or the all pearl white badges I plastidipped on my Faux Five Prius... Either it was too much contrast or too bland. I believe I have found a middle ground between the two...

Since I had some time while waiting for the delivery, I began playing around with a few different ideas for the emblems. I removed the majority of the pearl white Plastidip to reveal the original chrome, while leaving the blue area white. What I didn't like was the difference of the chrome "PRIUS" and "HYBRID" emblems against the brushed aluminum look of the "Synergy Drive" emblem.




So after the first set of Grazio & Co Synchro black on white emblems arrived from Japan on Monday, all thoughts were on the new task at hand...



Unboxing:

The amount of bubble wrap and foam bags goes beyond the call of duty to ship the emblems safely from Japan to the States. Not even UPS or FedEX could damage the contents, , with their standards of handling packages. Each emblem came in its own foam bag, bundled together in several bubble wrap bags. All taped together into a cocoon of air.




Debadging:

The tools I used to remove the badges are readily available. A pair of scissors, 10 lb test fishing line(dental floss works as well), a couple of plastic panel tools, masking tape, microfiber towel and rubbing alcohol. I tie a loop at each end of the fishing line to make it easier to grasp. Begin at one end and slowly work the fishing line back and forth to cut the adhesive, double sided tape used to attach the emblems to the exterior of the car. Take your time cutting the tape, there are a pair of guide pins on the emblems that you will need to work around. Once you have cut as much of the tape as possible, I use the masking tape along the edges of the emblems, to keep the panel tools from damaging the paint. You can see below, in the fourth image, where the tape has been cut and i can pull the emblem away from the exterior panel. When you get near the area between the guide pins, I use the panel tools to gently pry the adhesive tape. BE CAREFUL!! The emblems are fragile and can break easily between the letters if you attempt to force them.


And now begins the FUN part, removing the tape still stuck to the exterior panel. If you are lucky, and it hasn't been on the car for several years, the tape will roll off with some gentle pressure from your finger. On mine, the tape on the rear hatch came off without much effort. It might have been the hatch panel was plastic, where the front fender panel is metal. This doesn't really make too much sense to me, since both are painted in the same manner. If yours doesn't come off easily, I would suggest using a microfiber towel and some rubbing alcohol as a lubricant to remove the last of the adhesive tape.





Adding a white carbon fiber, or any color you choose, vinyl background to the front and rear emblems:

This step of the process is very easy. I cut a piece of vinyl, slightly larger than the emblem backing and remove the backing from the vinyl. Place the plastic Toyota emblem backing facing down, onto the sticky side of the vinyl. Using a sharp pair of scissors or a hobby knife, trace around the edge of emblem backing and remove the excess vinyl. Using a SHARP hobby knife, cut out any guide holes and mounting tabs. Mount the front emblem and backing to the front emblem mount. Install using the screws through the front bumper cover in front of the radiator. Then rinse and repeat for the rear emblem.




Rebadging:

This is a simple process, First, make sure the area where the emblems are being applied is clean and dry. If you used the rubbing alcohol to remove the original adhesive tape, this should be already accomplished. Working around the car, make sure you have the correct emblem for each location. The Grazio & Co emblems I received, came with double sided, adhesive tape already applied. All you need to do is remove the tape's backing, carefully line up the guide pins to the holes and apply even pressure to the emblem to mount. It's best to do this on a warmer day.






Mani, pedi and Brazilian spa treatment (mis)adventures...

Since I had planned to have a mani, pedi and Brazilian(clay, polish and wax) spa treatment for my Prius, I figured the best time would be when the emblems were removed.

This where my friend takes over...

After a thorough washing, a clay bar and detail spray were used to remove any contaminants attached to the paint. A mild cutting polish was applied using a DA buffer with a HexLogic orange pad to remove any minor scratches and swirls. A finishing polish was then applied with a HexLogic white pad to create a vibrant shine. Afterwards, another two coats of carnauba wax was applied to bring depth and luster. Best it has looked since I bought it last September.





Stay tuned for more (mis)adventures...

...couple more deliveries on their way from Japan...

... and another appointment with All Pro Audio of Santa Clara for a JL Audio subwoofer and amp...

 

Thanx!!!

 

A (mis)adventure of the "breathe easy" kind...

Quickly approaching my 15k maintenance service appointment on Monday at Piercey Toyota in Milpitas.

I went ahead and changed the cabin and engine air filters a little ahead of the Toyota recommended maintenance schedule.

These are a pair of the easiest maintenance tasks that you can do yourself. I could never pay a mechanic to do this work. Of the two, the cabin filter is slightly more involved, but for amount of money saved doing it yourself, it is well worth the time invested. It took me 10-15 minutes to complete both, and most of that time was used to take images of the process.


Engine air filter:

After opening the hood, there is a pair of metal clips holding the engine air filter cover in place that are easily accessible. Unclip them and lift the front edge of the cover to release a pair of hooks on the rear of the cover. The air induction hose, connected to the left side of the air filter cover, does not need to be removed to access the air filter element. Lift out the dirty filter element and replace with a new filter. Reverse the steps above, to complete the filter change.



Wix engine air filter, part # 49320, purchased through Amazon.





Cabin air filter:

You can find the cabin air filter hiding behind the lower glove box. To access the cabin filter, you will need to remove the lower glove box from the dash. Begin by emptying the lower glove box of its contents. There is a black ball joint, connected to a strut, attached to the right side of the glove box. This needs to be removed. A small amount of pressure will pop the strut from the glove box. Then apply pressure(squeezing) to the sides of the glove box to release the large pins from the dash. It takes a fair amount of pressure to release the first side. Once out, the other side will slip out of the dash with a slight angle. Remove the glove box and set aside.


Look into the area behind the glove box and locate a white plastic cover with a large "L" on the right hand side. There is a clip on the right hand side you will need to unlatch to remove this cover to access the cabin filter. Notice the markings on the filter. It is a directional filter that can be installed incorrectly, unlike the engine air filter. Remove the filter and replace with a new filter. Hook the filter cover into the left side and snap the clip to close. Align the two pairs of inserts on the lower rear of the glove box with the slots in the dash. Raise the glove box and squeeze the sides together to get the pins into the dash. Lastly, reattach the strut to the side and you are essentially finished.





Wix cabin air filter, part # 24483, purchased through Amazon.




Ewwwwww, yuck... ...I was breathing the air coming through all that dust...




No tools are required to perform either of these maintenance tasks.

They are so easy, even I can do it...






A "pranksters got a new toy" (mis)adventure...

I've had the BAFX bluetooth OBD II scan tool for a couple of weeks, and today, I had some spare time to explore some of the features of the Carista app. It took me less time to figure out the app, than to go into a dealer and ask for a change to the settings/customizations that takes a Toyota tech a couple of minutes to set. The UI layout of the Carista app is very intuitive, without the excess clutter, and very easy to navigate the different settings/customizations. One of my favorite features of the app, is having the ability to email myself, or anyone, the latest settings/customizations, for a record of the settings/customizations I have changed.

Just knowing I don't have to go to a dealer to customize the settings = Priceless


The paid version of the Carista App allows you to read and clear trouble codes. Also the ability to change a selection of settings/customizations.

Settings/customizations available with the paid version of the Carista App:

Doors-Windows-Remote:
Blink turn signals when locking/unlocking with remote
YES / NO

Beep when locking/unlocking with remote
YES / NO

Volume of beep when locking/unlocking with remote
OFF / 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / MAX

Warn when door can't be locked with remote because it's open
YES / NO

Panic function on remote
ENABLED / DISABLED

Re-lock doors automatically if you unlock, but don't open a door
YES / NO

Re-lock doors automatically if you unlock, but don't open a door within…
30 SECONDS / 60 SECONDS / 120 SECONDS

Unlock doors via remote
DRIVER'S DOOR ON 1ST PRESS, ALL ON 2ND / ALL DOORS ON 1ST PRESS

Unlock doors via physical key
DRIVER'S DOOR ON 1ST PRESS, ALL ON 2ND / ALL DOORS ON 1ST PRESS

Unlock doors via smart key (door handle button)
DRIVER'S DOOR ON 1ST PRESS, ALL ON 2ND / *ALL DOORS ON 1ST PRESS*

Auto-lock doors when moving
ON / OFF

Lock doors when shifting into gear
ON / OFF

Unlock doors when shifting into park (P)
ON / OFF

Unlock all doors when driver's door is opened
ON / OFF

After locking with smart key, allow re-opening within…
0.5 SECONDS / 1.5 SECONDS / 2.5 SECONDS / 5 SECONDS

Smart key location to start car
FRONT SEATS / ANYWHERE IN VEHICLE

Open trunk via smart access button
DISABLED / DOUBLE CLICK / LONG PRESS

Instruments-Display-Dings:
Reverse-gear beep
BEEP ONCE / KEEP BEEPING WHILE IN REVERSE

Key-in-ignition ding sound
SLOW / MEDIUM / FAST

Seat belt warning ding (driver)
ENABLED / DISABLED

Seat belt warning ding (front passenger)
ENABLED / DISABLED

Remote low battery warning
ON / OFF

Lights:
Heater & A/Caytime running lights
ON / OFF

Coming-home lights duration
OFF / 30 SECONDS / 60 SECONDS / 90 SECONDS

Dim interior lights after…
7 SECONDS / 15 SECONDS / 30 SECONDS

Turn on interior lights when you shut off engine
YES / NO

Turn on interior lights when you unlock doors
YES / NO

Turn on interior lights when smart key in range
YES / NO

Interior footlight (bright when doors open, dim when driving)
YES / NO

Turn on interior door-handle & center console lights dimly (flood lights) when ignition is on and shifter is not in park (P)
YES / NO

Interior light control
ENABLED / DISABLED

Heater & A/C:
Temperature dial calibration
-2°C / -1°C / NORMAL / +1°C / +2°C

Ambient temperature calibration
-3°C / -2°C / -1°C / NORMAL / +1°C / +2°C / +3°C

A/C ECO mode
ENABLED / DISABLED

Auto-increase blower speed when front defroster is on
YES / NO

Auto-turn on A/C when AUTO button pressed (if needed)
YES / NO

Deactivate front defroster when AUTO button pressed
YES / NO




This is a tool I will always carry in my Faux Five Prius. If you are in the SF Bay Area or the CA Central Coast and would like a few settings/customizations changed, just let me know.

 

The Wix site shows the cabin filter as correct.

Particulate version:
Wix 24483

Carbon version:
Wix 24511


It fit mine without using too much force or a hammer...

But you have to consider mine's the cheap one, a Model Three...


If you are going by the information from Amazon, I wouldn't trust it...

Thanks for catching that...

I typed that part number in backwards... It's Wix # 49320 for the engine air filter.

Most people only look at the pretty pictures and don't read anymore.

Hugh Hefner and Larry Flynt will be sooooo disappointed...





Muh bad...

 

(Mis)adventures of the "crap, I can't fit my hands in there"...

This (mis)adventure originally began as what I thought would be a simple horn upgrade, maybe 20-30 minutes to complete, that turned into a lesson on "how to remove the front bumper cover" in no time.

I never liked the "meep, meep" sound of the stock horns. I'm sure, to other drivers, it's like a gnat buzzing around your ear. A mere annoyance that you don't particularly pay much attention. I've had a set of Wolo Model 320-2T universal horns(410 & 510 Hz) on my desk for months. Fairly cheap, I found them for less than $20 at a local auto parts store. The tone went from the "meep, meep", to more representative of a car built in Detroit in the 80's. I believe this should be enough to get someone's attention on the roadway. Hopefully, I'll never need to find out.

But if I do...



Horn upgrade:

I tried to remove the stock horns, following a few write ups, that only removed the upper cover between the radiator and front bumper cover. After a few scrapes and never having the leverage to loosen the nuts holding the stock horns in place, I decided to remove the front bumper cover(see below) to access the horns/mounts/wiring. Once removed, the access to the horns/wiring becomes significantly improved. Removal/replacement of the horns becomes very easy and takes less than 20 minutes. I began by unbolting the horn mounts and removing each horn. There is a single wire that needs to be disconnected from the stock horns by releasing a small clip. Once removed, I checked the fit of the new horns and decided to use the included universal mounts. There are 4 mounts and I used 2 on each horn to lessen the amount of vibration. This set of horns requires two connections, a positive and negative. The stock horn uses only one, a positive connection. I used the included ground wire and attached it with the bolt used to mount the horn bracket. As expected, the Toyota wiring harness was a few inches short and rather than cut the Toyota plug off, I made a pair of short jumpers using a pair of male/female spade crimp connectors. The male spade fits directly into the wiring harness plug without any modifications. Plug in the positive wire from the harness and the ground to the horn, add a few zip ties to keep the wires from rubbing the radiator and you are almost done. Lastly, test the horns before reinstalling the bumper cover. just in case...





Front bumper cover removal:

To remove the front bumper cover, a total of 20+ screws and clips must be removed first. The first pair of screws and clips are located on the panels directly in front of the tires. Using a flat blade screwdriver or small panel tool, release the clip and remove. Pull down on the front of the cover and let hang out of the way. Repeat this procedure for the other side. Along the inside front edge of the fender is another set of screws and clips(1 of each on both sides). This clip has a unique method to remove. Use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the clip 90 degrees and pull out. Along the bottom of the bumper cover are 4 screws and another clip that will need to be removed as well.



The rest of the screws and blips are located on the upper portion of the bumper cover.The cover between the radiator and the bumper cover is next on the list to remove. There are 3 clips holding this cover that will need to be remove to access the rest of the screws and clips holding the bumper cover in place. Depress the center of each clip with your finger and lift the clips to remove them. remove this cover. There are another 2 screws and 9 more clips to remove. This type of clip is the same as used on the underside of the bumper cover. use a flat blade screwdriver to release the clips and pull out. Give yourself a pat on the back. You have accomplished what few will ever try. but you are still not done yet.


At this point, you want to place something under the bumper cover to protect it. A blanket, cardboard or a piece of carpet work well. Placing your hands on the inner edge of the fender well, gently pull outward to release a set of 3 clips holding the bumper cover to the front quarter panel. repeat this procedure on the other side. Your bumper cover is now free of any screws/clips holding it in place. lift the cover off the front of the car and lower it onto your protective material. Disconnect the DRL plugs, and if necessary, the fog light plugs, Set the bumper cover aside and you now have access to front bumper area. To replace the bumper cover, simply reverse the above steps.



If you have completed all of the mods in my thread up to this point, you can consider yourself well on your way to completing the sfprankster Toyota technician certification course...

Anytime!!!

It was a gift from a friend.