Mini VCI revealed DTCs...maybe worst thing possible? Help please!

I know I can take the time to research and find the meaning of all these DTCs, and what the combination of them likely means, but to be honest, I’m so upset after doing the Mini VCI health check that I’m crying, and I have to leave for work now (in a car borrowed from someone, since mine’s almost useless) and won’t get home ’til late tonight, and I’d really like to get an idea of what I might be facing when I go to the dealer tomorrow morning, because I’m not sure I can trust them when it comes to giving me good, less expensive options.

Codes the Mini VCI read from my 2007 Prius, 81k miles (EDITED TO ADD SUBCODES/TITLES):
P3000-123 (current and history), battery control system
P0011 (current and history), camshaft position A; timing over-advanced or system performance (bank 1)
P0A80 (pending and history), replace hybrid battery pack
C1310 (current), hv system malfunction
B1421 (current)

Warning lights currently showing: master warning, VSC, check engine, brake system, hybrid system (on center screen). Main symptoms: car shuddering a lot at stoplights, strong engine noises with car slowing when coasting and (sometimes) braking.

Also, the 12V battery was replaced a year ago with an Optima yellow top, and already the first two voltages aren’t great when I do that three-step diagnostic battery check: 12.1, 11.8, 13.8. I was planning on replacing it or buying a good reconditioning charger this weekend, but now I know the problem extends far beyond this battery, and I most likely cannot afford the repairs, so there may not be a point.

I know what all this likely means, but I need to hear it from people far more knowledgeable than me, and this is the place. So give it to me straight, I can take it. (I think…)

 

Thanks, everyone. So much great info and tips, which I'll follow, except I unfortunately was basically forced to drop the car off at the dealer just now after work. My poor parents, who have been driving to my house each day and sitting around while I use their cars to go to work, were absolutely fed up and demanded I bring it there tonight. My dad, however, is insisting on paying for the diagnosis, so that's small relief. This has become a family effort.

Now that I have the above information and tips, I *really* wish I had tonight to look into that stuff with the Mini VCI. I'll certainly utilize it more when I get the car back and will follow the procedure you outlined, strawbrad, as well as perform the charge/discharge test. All of this is certainly a valuable learning experience. Before committing to any repairs, I may just ask the dealer to charge the 12V battery, which they said would be $20-$30--or I can bring it home, charge it with my charger, and go from there.

I am just one month past the eight year hybrid battery warranty, and am not in a CARB state. So. very. frustrating. I'm in Wilmington, Delaware, about twenty minutes from Philly and a little over an hour from Baltimore. The awful part of this is that if the culprit is indeed the hybrid battery, unless I can find a much cheaper option to replace it, I won't be able to replace it at all, and will simply no longer have a car to drive.

 

Will do. The car has almost exclusively been serviced by Toyota since it was purchased by my mom back in '07, and I'm the only other owner, so that should be helpful. Believe me, begging is not beneath me at this point, not to mention that I seem to lapse into sniffles and sobs whenever I think/talk about potentially not having a car, so that'll probably make the poor rep I speak to really, really motivated to solve my problem 100% and get off the phone as quickly as possible...

 

Thanks for the well wishes and additional info. I was just able to get someone to take me by the dealer, and they hadn't yet looked at my car, so I hooked up the Mini VCI and collected some more info. (I didn't do the charge/discharge test, only because I didn't see a battery button on the left side of the screen, or anywhere, and I couldn't find a way into any section in which I could view live data. I'm not sure why this is.) I've saved all the freeze frame data for each DTC section, so please ask if you want to know the particulars of anything in those sections, but here is updated DTC code and subcode info (there weren't subcodes or additional info for some):

P3000-123 (current and history), battery control system
P0011 (current and history), camshaft position A; timing over-advanced or system performance (bank 1)
P0A80 (pending and history), replace hybrid battery pack
C1310 (current), hv system malfunction
B1421 (current)

In the freeze frame data for the hybrid battery, all the battery block voltages were within .2V or so of each other (about 14.9-15.1V) except for block 10, which is 13.79V. Is this significant?

I'm toying with the idea of getting my "helper" to bring me back to the dealer, picking up my car, charging the aux battery myself tonight, and going from there. Since I'll be disconnecting the battery (it's not a strong charger but is pulsed, so don't want to leave connected), I'm wondering--will these codes pop up again, and relatively quickly, if the problems are unrelated to the aux battery? I'm just a little paranoid about driving around much more and potentially causing further damage if the above codes are indeed accurately reflecting the problem, and if they are I'd hope they'd pop up right away after charging the aux.

 

Brad, thanks, I figured as much as I continued to research this afternoon. After looking over all the Techstream data, I was researching away online and called a web store that sells a few Prius specific items. It was such a fruitful call; the guy knows a lot about the hybrid battery system and repair options, etc. He essentially told me exactly what you just did: that at least that specific module must be replaced, that the car isn't really safe to drive at this point (partly because the brake system light is on, indicating that that system is being affected and could cause a serious issue while driving), and that the 12V battery, while not at optimal charge, isn't the primary culprit here.

Yes, the Optima battery has a three year warranty, BUT I made the mistake of purchasing online from batterymart.com (not doing that again), and the process of paying to return it and then waiting weeks for them to test and charge it, with the likely result, according to them, that they'll just end up sending it back to me isn't at all appealing and probably not worth it, as long as I can charge it myself and it can hold a charge. Anyway, the dealer is doing a free battery check and said it would be $20-$30 to charge--not so bad, and probably what I'll do since I have bigger fish to fry now and need to focus on that.

I left the car at the dealer and told them to go ahead and do the diagnostic process, which I'm expecting will give me the results you specified, and on Monday I suspect I'll be calling Toyota to politely yet firmly beg. I'm trying to tell myself that I still love the Prius and think it's a wonderful car, but I can't help but be angry that this is happening at 81k miles, and mere weeks after the warranty expired, to a car that I and my mother have immaculately cared for, a car that I rely on entirely for my job and that is my family's only car. I suppose someone has to be hit with the inevitable early battery failure, but why oh why does it have to be me?! But, armed with the advice in this thread, I have a glimmer of hope and a few decent options.