red triangle of death, vsc, check engine light and tire pressure low light

i think it is the battery. ask toyota of a goodwill warranty, you're just over the line.

 

would start by checking the 12 volt, after that, it's beyond my depth, hope your lucky and it's only the 12 volt.

 

sorry, my mind must have been playing tricks on me. have you gone through the battery rebuild threads? there's more to it than meets the eye.

certainly, you should make sure the inverter coolant pump is working, and check the battery vent and cooling fan for blockage/clogging.

 

If there is turbulence in the inverter coolant tank then the pump is working.

 

P0A80 means that the traction battery needs to be replaced.
P3015 indicates that module pair #5 is the problem.

I am wondering why you would not think the battery is an issue since you've already had to replace one module. In any event, look at module pair #5 (counting from the end of the battery opposite the traction battery ECU.)

 

I got the scary RED TRIANGLE a few days ago but I did drive a few miles with it on with no bad things happening. So a day later I started it up and no TRIANGLE until I drove a couple of miles and then I got it again with the VSC, Engine, and the cruise control would not come on. I had the HV battery out a week or so ago and didn't find any module voltages "out of whack" so put it back in but still got the Triangle. So I went to my local Advance Auto and had them do an OBD check and it returned the code PA080 "bad HV battery" So back to work on the battery! Removed the cover and the bus bars on the rear of the battery, (yes I had removed the safety plug). So upon checking the modules again I found that number 7 was only 6.58 volts, so back out comes the battery and to the bench so remove and replace the module. I had purchased a couple of modules off Ebay a few months back. Got the module replaced and removed the bus bars and wire brushed them since they were kinda of cruddy. Got it all back together and fired it up and "NO RED TRIANGLE or other codes" and the cruise turns on Ok now too. I don't understand the batteries but when I hooked it up to my charger it shot up to 8 volts quickly, (why would it charge when it's bad?) Well I'm happy anyway if the Scary "RED THING" will just not come up again. The Prius is a 2006 that I bought used with 101,000 on it and I just drove it to Alaska from South Florida almost 12,000 miles with no problems whatsoever.

 

The problem with that module is that it has diminished capacity, hence it will quickly show a voltage drop when discharging and also quickly show a voltage gain when charging. A new module would be relatively slow to discharge and slow to charge.

That difference in voltage drop causes the traction battery ECU to identify the module pair where that module is located as having a fault.

 

Well, I completely agree with the second quote.

k9gmj lived through his battery ignorance. This is mostly for others that will follow. Removing the orange safety plug does not eliminate the presence of high voltage. The plug splits the pack in to two unequal parts of nine and nineteen modules. The nineteen module side still has 161 volts with the plug removed. The only way to eliminate the presence of high voltage is to remove all the bus bars from one side of the pack. This should be the first thing done after the cover comes off. The danger is that the battery is still live while the bus bars are being removed. This is a time for gloves and paying attention to what you are doing. Do not think that pulling the orange plug makes a battery safe.

Brad

 

Where can I pickup a pair of lineman gloves. Also what parts of the battery are LIVE and DANGEROUS? Tia


iPhone ?