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Reverse Polarity

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by nrmaza, Aug 13, 2015.

  1. nrmaza

    nrmaza New Member

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    So I was having battery trouble, I'd have to jump start my '07 Prius every 2 days to get it to start. I went through Amazon to pick up a new battery, since they ask you a slew of questions about your make and model before you purchase something like a battery, I was pretty confident when I received my new Optima battery. I knew the posts were going to be standard American, so I had purchased new cable fittings and replaced the old ones.

    I installed the new battery hooked everything back up and went inside my apartment for a moment to grab some water. I hear a knock on my door, and it's my next door neighbor, "Is that black Prius yours? 'Cause you left your lights on" I thank him, he leaves and I panic.

    I didn't turn on the car, nothing should be on! I get outside and the amber tail lights are on, and only the amber tail lights. I open the stupid hatch (which is a pain when your car has no power), and to my horror, the positive and negative posts are not where I thought they were (I thinking this battery was a fit for my car didn't think twice about installing it like it's supposed to fit in that space). I had hooked the cables onto the wrong post. I quickly removed the cables from the post and cried a little bit. I smelt no smoke, and I heard nothing pop, I had hope.

    After dealing with Amazon, they refunded me, and told me I didn't have to return that battery. I bought the correct one, waited a week for it to get to me, and when I hooked it up, the car wouldn't start.

    As soon as I get in (manually using the key, because nothing powers on), I put the key/key fob into the slot, hold the brake and push the Start button. The ring around the button turns green, and nothing happens, except the check engine light (orange malfunction lamp, item 6 in the owners manual, page 6) turns on. I bought a new Prius replacement part for the positive terminal (where fuse 49 and 50 are installed) still no cigar. I'll be changing all of the fuses (under the dash, in the engine block) come Monday.

    If none of this works, what should I do?
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome! it's probably the fuse, but if that doesn't work, you may have fried the inverter. not to worry, you can pick them up for cheap on ebay. all the best!(y)
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Sorry to hear about your mishap. Interesting that the turn signal lamps light up in that condition.

    Replacing all the fuses probably won't be necessary. For some of that money, you can get a cheap multimeter and use it to test fuses and see which ones (if any) need to be replaced.

    Good that you spotted the fuses located right in the battery terminal. There is (I drive a Gen 1, so I'm extrapolating a bit to your Gen 2, but I'm pretty confident) another fuse rather like it (about 100 amp) in a main engine compartment fuse box, where that cable from the battery meets the DC/DC converter. There is a good chance you will find that you need that fuse.

    If you're lucky, the fuse did what it's supposed to, fast enough, and your DC/DC converter itself is ok. You'll know soon. :)

    You can find all your wiring diagrams on techinfo.toyota.com. They can be very helpful in troubleshooting because you will see where all the fuses are and what things are upstream/downstream of them, so you can make some diagnostic judgments based on what is and isn't getting power. Sometimes that is easier than getting access to the fuse terminals to test there (in some models at least, I think I've read that the DC/DC converter fuse has screw terminals that need to be accessed from the bottom of the fuse box).

    As you are getting some dash lights and the power button ring when you try to power the car, at least some of the car's computers are probably getting power. That means if you have a scan tool that can read Prius computers (in this forum, Mini VCI is a popular choice, and it's cheap if you've got a laptop already), you can get the computers to give you whatever information they have about where the problem(s) might be.

    Hope this helps!
    -Chap
     
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  4. nrmaza

    nrmaza New Member

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    Thanks for the advice, if I do need replacement parts, I'll know where to look!
     
  5. nrmaza

    nrmaza New Member

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    Thank you so much, I'll look into this, and hopefully it's really just a blown fuse. Reading some threads, the cost of repair if it's more serious is astronomical.
     
  6. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Where are you located. An independent Prius repair facility can keep your repair costs reasonable. We can try to identify one near you.

    JeffD
     
  7. nrmaza

    nrmaza New Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion! I'm going to try replacing easily accessible fuses first, and using a code reader, if that doesn't help, an independent facility sounds like my best. I'm in Houston.
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    As previously suggested, use the ohmmeter function of a digital multimeter to verify fuse continuity. Remove one fuse at a time and measure it, then replace. Use long nose pliers to easily remove a fuse.

    In addition, look at the fuse links located in the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter, behind the driver's headlight assembly. They are in a ~5" long plastic box with a clear cover. Look for a burnt link, which would be the 100A DC/DC link. If you see that then the entire box with fuse links will need to be replaced. This is not a minor task.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I'm guessing that you're not going to find there are many (plural...) fuses needing replacement, outside of perhaps one or two key ones ... and fuses are testable before you replace them. I'd suggest consulting the wiring diagram to plan your attack on the most likely ones first (even if those aren't the most easily accessible).

    One of the traps a person can fall into while doing diagnosis is that every other thing you disturb without needing to has a possibility of causing an additional problem. Even something that seems very simple, like pulling a whole bunch of fuses, might lead you to eventually discover, for example, one of those had a weak terminal that was never causing a problem before. Often the extra problem will be something really simple that normally wouldn't be hard to find, but it can be very confusing in the middle of trying to troubleshoot something else. So there's a good reason for trying to use a restrained hand while trying to track down a problem.

    -Chap
     
    #9 ChapmanF, Aug 14, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2015
  10. nrmaza

    nrmaza New Member

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    Right I figured, I'd test fuses that relate to my current issue. By easily accessible, I meant I wouldn't have to unscrew, or pry anything that might cause further harm. Which is why I purchased a new positive terminal instead of trying to pry off the 120A fuse there and just replace that fuse.
     
  11. nrmaza

    nrmaza New Member

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    I'll make sure to look for the main relay fuse box, and check to see if that fuse looks like it has a burnt link. If it does, I'll probably tow it to a garage that works on hybrids. I'm not super confidant working on hybrid vehicles and I wouldn't want to risk more damage. Thanks for the advice!
     
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    hometown hybrids, ask for jess.
     
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  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Yes, admirably cautious. In case you're curious later (you've probably already figured this out by looking at the old one you replaced), that fuse doesn't pry out, the terminals are bolted, but it's easy to get to the bolts just by unclipping and folding open the plastic 'doors' on the side of that housing. At least that's how it works on my Gen 1. Some years back I posted a photo; should be here, with one plastic flap open to show the terminal.[​IMG]

    -Chap
     
  14. nrmaza

    nrmaza New Member

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    I looked at the old one (looks very much like the gen 1) and saw that it bolted in place once I removed the black plastic housing. Once I get my ohm meter I'll test out those fuses, though neither the 5A or the 120A look blown with the naked eye.