Gen II Prius Individual Battery Module Replacement

Ah. Those start voltages let me to believe you had charged them. I didn't realize you were chasing P0A94 until other's mentioned it. Unfortunately, there are a couple dozen subcodes to P0A94, so I can't offer any guidance.

Steve

 

Hello
I have been following this thread for a while to help my traction battery and it's been a great help. This is my first post though. I just wanted an opinion on my 2007 Prius, it has 132k miles. Traction battery faulted with dash lights and codes confirmed by dealer. I removed the battery today and took the cell readings. Middle two are bad for sure at 6.74v and 6.81. Majority of others are 8.04 except the two at the ends which are 7.96v. So should I replace the two at the ends also or just the two in the 6v range in the middle? Thank you

 

~0.1V isn't much to worry about. The end modules have different cooling characteristics than the rest, so it's not surprising they are a little different than the others, yet consistent with one another.The end modules are probably fine.

The real challenge in this situation is ensuring the replacement modules are at the same state of charge. Do you have ANY means of charging/discharging a module?

 

It is common for the two end modules to run slightly off the rest.

 

Got mini vci and after some trouble making it work was able to do a health check, see below. No issues recorded so I will drive around to see if any issue show up again. Thanks all for help above.

 

Thanks! I thought it was odd to see the ends matched. I ordered eight B6AC chargers. That should be enough I think, not sure on the settings yet but I'll have to wait and figure that after they arrive.

 

OMG PLEASE!!! CANCEL THE ORDER IMMEDIATELY!!!!

 

S Keith. I was going to say something, too... but with less caps!

 

Sorry for the outburst. but I wanted you get the notification ASAP.

The Chinese knock-off B6 & B6AC are complete and total garbage. The SkyRC are quality, but poorly suited to the task. I have 11 of the DC powered ones and 4 of the B6AC. I know what I'm talking about.

 

I am a little confused here, not sure if this was correct. I used these settings last night on one module.
Settings:
Charge at 5 amps up to 7250mAhr
Discharge at 1 aMhr down to 6 volts
DSCH<CHG for 3 cycles.
I also set the cool down period to 5 minutes.

This is the start.

This is the end this morning.


Not sure if this was correct? Do I do this 2 more times or wasn't that what the 3 cycle setting was for?

CJ

S Keith
Just saw this, I think it was intended for me. I can cancel the order. I had one B6AC already that I used for RC batteries. I hope I didn't hurt the one module in my recent post. I am just replacing two bad modules then wanted to cycle them all. So could I just do the light bulb discharge for the whole pack like you said?
CJ

 

CJ,

You didn't hurt anything at all.

 

1) It was 7.63 after load test of 55w bulb for one minute, but after I hook the B6 I realized it started the charge cycle first so I aborted it after a minute that made it 8.4. Was afraid that would over charge it so set it to discharge first cycle.
2) This is module 28. Here are the listed voltages after 55w bulb for one minute.


3) I think the gauge had two bars.
4) I don't know what force charge means so know I did not. Just removed the pack.

 

1) Unless the B6 outright malfunctions, it can't do anything to damage the modules. The car slams north of ~70A in and out of the modules. 5A isn't going to do anything but tickle it a little. If you listen quietly in the dark, you might hear the module giggle.
2) Your first post indicated voltages roughly from 7.9X to 8.0X. Those were immediately after pack removal from car? The voltages you listed for 2) were start -> end voltages for a 55W bulb test? Nothing happened between the 7.9X-8.0X voltages and the start of the 55W voltage readings except the passage of time?
3) Makes sense... likely a result of the two bad modules showing low block voltages.
4) If you set the parking brake (for safety), smash brake pedal and floor the throttle, the car will force-charge the battery to full, but only on the basis of the highest charged block number.

 

2) that is correct.

I had planned a couple of weeks to be down but if not necessary then so be it.

 

Think I should order the Tunighy reactor chargers and do the light drain also? The two modules I ordered off eBay did have a tested guarantee with 90 day warranty, Toyota Prius 7 2V NiMH HV Tested at 8 0V Battery Cells Cell 6 5Ah 2004 2009 | eBay .

CJ

 

Sorry... long day...

That ad says $999.99? It also doesn't guarantee capacity, just that it won't fall below 7.2V... whatever that means. It's clear there was no testing besides putting a voltmeter on it. You have no idea what the capacity will be.

 

S Keith

I really appreciate your help!

Thank you
CJ

 

Is that charge time with the B6AC or if I get a Reactor? I did cancel that other B6AC order, thank you for that by the way!

CJ

 

The B6 you already have. I'm kinda all over the place.

If you don't already have a miniVCI, you really need to get one. Invaluable in identifying questionable/weak block under actual car loads.

Steve

 

Wow! Thank you again!

CJ