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2005 Prius with 300k miles, DTC c1319 problem

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by JC91006, Dec 29, 2015.

  1. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    So I was given this 2005 project car that has 300k miles and a DTC logged c1319. No other codes exist. The car seems to have a brake issue, but still runs. I'm looking for some help in figuring out the exact cause.

    What I noticed about the car's braking.

    1. It doesn't seem to have any electronic braking power
    2. The car has many brake warning lights on (brake, vsc, abs)
    3. The HV battery seems to not get any regenerative charging from braking.
    4. The right brake rotor has lots of rust and doesn't seem to clean off with braking.
    5. The car seems to be on some override mode, where it seems only manually braking is available (no power brakes)

    I ordered a new skid control ecu from Ebay but I was told this might not be a skid control ecu problem. Any ideas?
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Is this a stroke sensor problem? What is a changeover solenoid?
     
    #2 JC91006, Dec 30, 2015
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2015
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The "changeover solenoid" is another name for the stroke simulator solenoid. The purpose of that part is to make the brake pedal feel normal when the pedal is depressed and regen braking is in effect.

    As you know by reference to the repair manual, that DTC is caused by one of three possibilities: the stroke sensor, the skid control ECU or the associated wiring harness. The repair manual provides info about how to narrow down the problem by measuring resistance across the sensor and verifying that the proper voltage is present at the sensor and the ECU. I suggest that you follow the troubleshooting steps.
     
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Thank you
     
  5. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    I have replaced three Skid Control ECU's. U codes often appear with their failure. U codes relate to communication errors. The Skid Control ECU can affect regeneration. Three nuts hold the ECU in place. The top nut is a bear to get to. With your eyes next to the gas pedal the nut is barely visible. I use a deep 10 mm 1/4" drive socket, then a 1/4" U joint, and about a 18" extension. 3/8" drive sockets and U joints will not work, they are too big. It also helps to put some masking tape on the U joint to slow it down. Once you get the socket on the nut it will spin off with out too much trouble. No trim panels need to be removed. Techstream has a couple of calibration steps that are needed after replacement.

    Brad
     
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  6. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I'm going to tackle the stroke sensor first and then if needed, the skid control ecu. I haven't gotten around to it yet as this is a project and there's really no rush to do it. It would be nice to fix this with less than a $100 from ebay
     
  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Do you think the sensors and skid control ecu can go out of calibration? Thus failing?
     
  8. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    I think the skid control ECU's should all be recalled. But that's not my call. I do remember reading something about Toyota repairing the ECU's. Do you have Techstream? Did you get a sub or inf code? The front right brake not working is a huge clue of what is wrong with your car. Techstream has several tests and resets available in the ABS section. It would be worthwhile to take a look. Since you have already paid for the ECU I would recommend putting it in.

    Brad
     
  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Yes the right brake *light* is not working properly, it's very dim. Is this an ecu problem?

    I do have techstream, I didn't mess with it too much, just did a health check and got code c1319
     
  10. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Who knows? But you do know that something is not working right there. It could be just a plain old stuck caliper. Or it could be caused by the incredibly complicated Prius braking system. It's a good place to start looking. How about jacking the right front wheel up. Have the car running in neutral. With a helper stepping on the brakes try to turn the wheel by hand. Or get both front wheels off the ground and see if the brakes will stop each of them with the car in drive. The ABS would not be happy about having one wheel it could not control. Maybe a stuck caliper is frustrating the heck out of the computers? Maybe the computers are sending jiberish to the caliper?

    Do you have Techstream?
     
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Yes I do have techstream. I'm thinking this is more of a computer related issue than a hardware issue (caliper).
     
  12. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Why? What clues has the car given you? Just to rule it out you could try pulling the caliper off and retracting the piston with a c clamp.

    Here is a list of codes one failed skid control ECU produced. U0100, U0129, C1310,U0073, U0293,C1259, and U0121. That is very different from what you are seeing.

    This car lost almost all braking function. U0129,C0200,C1235,C1300,U0121,B2775,and C2318.
     
  13. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The car itself drives but doesn't have much regen while braking. So the electronic controls are out of whack. I'm thinking the car is on automatic override where I only get manual braking at this point.

    I can take off the caliper and see what's going on. This problem seemed to have occurred after the dealer performed a coolant change on the inverter side. I know it's not related, but the problem occurred right after the change. So c1319 is all I'm working with, and it points to skid control ecu or stroke sensor (from Patrick)
     
  14. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I put in the new skid control ecu today and tried to calibrate it. It wouldn't calibrate properly. I don't know if the used ecu was a problem as I got more dtc errors after installing and calibrating. I removed the new ecu and installed the old one back again....now I'm back to dtc c1319
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Did you ever check again with your code reader to see whether the INF code was 71, 72, 73, or 74 as shown in the manual excerpt S Keith posted, and then follow up with testing the conditions indicated in the table?

    Chances are, if you look at the full manual, there will be at least a page on each of those possibilities with the test procedures you can follow.

    -Chap
     
  16. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I still have to check the right front brake to see why it's not functioning. Today I had a little time and didn't have many tools with me. I just unhooked the old skid control ecu and hooked up the new one. Spent about 30 minutes on it and then decided it was worst than when I first started.

    I will have to do a full diagnostics on this. Follow what S Keith posted. Thanks
     
  17. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Do you have the manuals? Let me know if you need the appropriate pages.
     
  18. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    yes I do have the manual, thank you. This is actually a bit above my knowledge level. But since I'm not planning to drive this car, it's just a project to see if I can figure out the problem and fix it.

    The battery just threw P0A80 today as a "pending" code. This car sat for about 1/2 a year and now the battery has finally had enough. Looking at techstream, block 1 and block 14 seems to be weaker than all the rest. It's just a matter of time before it triggers the triangle
     
  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    About the best way there is of learning anything: pick a problem a bit above your knowledge level, obtain the right resources, work it through till you understand it. :)

    -Chap
     
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  20. spirithunter6

    spirithunter6 New Member

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    I had the same problem on my 2008 prius at 320,000 miles. Dealer told me it was most likely a brake stroke sensor and would be about a $500 job. I went home and reset the ABS computers by using a paperclip and jumping pin 4 and pin 13 on the diagnostic port. Once it reset all the lights went away and I got my power brakes back. I'm at 325,000 now and still going strong.
     
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