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2004 Prius buying advice

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by romanlutsk, Dec 26, 2015.

  1. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Location:
    Cupertino, CA
    Vehicle:
    2002 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    After years of salivating over a 2nd gen Prius, I finally found something in my price range: 2004 Prius with 162 K mi for $2500-3000 (clean title). It spent the first 10 years in Maryland, so has some rust on the undercarriage. Also, the engine vibrates more than usual sometimes during the start.

    It drives well, but has a lot of carbon build up on the exhaust pipe (even a 1/2 inch black "ring" on the outside of the pipe).

    I found out that during the last oil change (3K mi ago), they overfilled it about 1/4 inch above the max mark. I drained it down to about half way between the marks, so will see tomorrow if it improves the engine start.

    Also, I saw a few drops of water (coolant?) in the 2 cups of oil I drained - is that a cause for concern? The oil itself was not too dark on the measuring stick, but what drained appeared much darker.

    Battery seems to be ok (doesn't discharge too quickly) and it passed the smog.

    The steering wheel seems to be a little harder to turn than other prii I've driven - any way to test if it's normal?

    The seller says he'll cover up to $500 in fixes/maintenance. Besides compression test, what other tests/repairs would you suggest to do before I commit to buying it?

    Thanks!
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    It's not always the best idea to buy the cheapest you can find, hidden problems can cost you more than the price of the car
     
    N.J.PRIUS likes this.
  3. 48mpg

    48mpg Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
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    I
    thats not carbon if it passed emissions, most likely burned oil..they all use oil after 100,000 miles..
    if its that bad the cat convertor will need to be replaced as its likely gummed up with oil as well

    don't do it..
    old and rusty will be a money pit
    $500 will cover next too nothing on a prius, unless you can get the car for $2000 Id walk away
    the battery is past the end of its life expectancy
    brake lines with rust can rupture at any time
    the exhaust system is very expensive.
    but the choice is yours, with gas being cheaper theres a ton of them on the market and the prices are dropping, I have two rust free Florida Prii for sale and not getting any realistic offers..
     
    Okinawa likes this.
  4. N.J.PRIUS

    N.J.PRIUS Member

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    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius Plug-in
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    Plug-in Advanced
    I just sold my Gen 2 at 129,900, was not using a drop of oil between oil changes.
     
  5. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2002 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Thanks for all the input. I'll try to do the compression test tomorrow and let's see what the results are.

    Any ideas for an easy way to set the 2004 prius into the compression test mode (cranking the engine, but not starting it), using the Techstream software? I could not find the option. Thanks!
     
  6. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    2002 Prius
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    N/A
    A quick update on that prius. I ended up buying it after doing a compression test. The results showed anywhere between 125 to 145 psi in dry and 165 to 245 psi in wet tests. The difference between the cylinders was 5-10 psi. There was quite a lot of deviation when measuring the compression in the same cylinder several times (120-140 psi dry and 165-200 psi wet) though.

    Anyway, it looks like the reason for that much carbon deposit on the exhaust pipe was overfilled oil. My understanding is that the increased pressure pushed the oil into the combustion chamber through the valve seals.

    I drained the oil so it's between the max and min now and cleaned the carbon deposits on the exhaust pipe and after about 300 mi the exhaust pipe is still very clean.

    So, the moral of the story is always check the oil level and don't let it go anywhere close to the max level. I hope the catalytic converter wasn't damaged too much when trying to clean all that oily exhaust.
     
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats, all the best!(y)
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Vehicle:
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    Two
    The compression spec is 128 psi. Maximum allowable difference between cylinders is 14 psi and minimum pressure is 99 psi.

    What was your method to spin the engine when doing the compression test? Did you use Mini VCI to spin the engine at the appropriate speed - ~300 RPM?

    If you did not, then the engine was being spun at ~1,200 RPM. That obviously would produce erroneously high results.

    That would also explain why the compression was so high when you injected engine oil into the combustion chambers. Further, the difference between dry and wet indicates the engine probably will show very poor compression if spun at the correct ~300 RPM speed.
     
    #8 Patrick Wong, Jan 10, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2016
  9. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2002 Prius
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    N/A
    Those are some useful numbers - thanks! I couldn't get the Techstream (with Mini VCI) to spin the engine using the "compression test" mode (there was always some sort of error message). After fiddling with the software for half an hour, I just turned the car on with the "start" button and let it crank for 3-4 seconds.

    I'll try entering the "compression test" mode with Techstream again - maybe it works this time. Any specific instructions I should follow? Thanks!
     
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Two
    I haven't had the need to check engine compression using Mini VCI yet. However I'd like to suggest the following process:

    1. Make sure the engine is fully warmed up, before you start.
    2. Disconnect the fuel injectors and the spark igniters. Remove the spark igniters and the spark plugs. Obviously, you need to remove the relay box over the engine at minimum, and your access will be improved dramatically if you remove the sheet metal tray that houses the windshield wiper motor.
    3. Screw the compression gauge into a cylinder.
    4. Make the Prius IG-ON, and establish comm with Mini VCI.
    5. Select the compression test mode with Mini VCI.
    6. Press on the brake pedal while pressing the POWER button, to spin the engine.
    7. Log the cylinder compression reading.
    8. Make the car IG-OFF, remove the compression gauge.
    9. Repeat steps 3 - 8 for each of the remaining three cylinders.

    Do the check as quickly as possible so that you do not deplete the traction battery charge. If the reading on a cylinder is below spec, you can try injecting some engine oil to see if the compression improves. If it does improve then the piston rings for that cylinder are worn. If it does not improve then the valves are leaking.

    The spark plug tightening torque is 13 ft.-lb, and the spark igniter bolt tightening torque is 80 in.-lb.
     
    #10 Patrick Wong, Jan 13, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2016
    Figster10 likes this.
  11. romanlutsk

    romanlutsk Junior Member

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    Location:
    Cupertino, CA
    Vehicle:
    2002 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Thanks a lot for the detailed write-up, I'll try it in the next few days.