Gen II Prius Individual Battery Module Replacement

the whole thread is about diyers working on these batteries, just because you sell a few modules does not mean your "promoting dangerous behaviour" .. I don't see what actually happened in that video I just see sparks and a failed globe

next time try standing the block of modules on its end and stacking the modules one at a time

 

Them there stickers say danger and stuff on them.

Video shows nothing but a 110V lightbulb being taken out by either a surge due to the low filament resistance before it heats up, poor practice, a defective lamp socket or deliberate sabotage.

Not sure. 7.75 is pretty high, but that bulb may not be pulling more than 30W or so. If you're getting to 7.75V after at least a few minutes, then it's probably fine.

 

It has taken no less than 2 minutes for any of the modules to reach 7.75, but they're all rising again after a few minutes and the resting voltages vary from 7.83 to 7.95. Is the goal to match resting voltage, or just pull each module down to 7.75 and be done? Does it even matter?

 

That should be fine. Once and done. The voltages take at least 30 minutes to get close to settling, and they'll continue to settle for about 10 hours (another 0.1V or so), so comparing them during the process it tough. After an overnight rest, they should be pretty close. Either way, it doesn't matter. They won't be perfect, but they'll be as close as you can expect with the tools at hand.

 

Battery is in the car, and 75 miles later everything is still going great. It seems to be good. I'll know in another 75 miles whether or not I can reassemble the interior completely.

Thank you everyone for the great advice. I wouldn't have been able to complete this project without the assistance.

 

Run the discharge test in my signature.

 

Ha ha ha. Toooooooooo funny!!!!!!

 

I performed the battery drain test and here is my result.

5:55 before ICE began charging HV battery = 5.917 minutes

5.917 * 9.5% = 56.21

A couple of notes:

The last green bar never filled, but the arrow was blinking as if it had reached the max. I waited for a good few minutes for the last bar, but it wasn't happening, so I went from there.

Also, the ICE seemed to be running almost the entire discharge. In light of this, I stopped my timer when the display indicated that the ICE was charging the HV battery.

Not sure if any of these points matter, just being thorough.

 

Ok, now I'm stranded in the car, and the ICE won't come on at all. I don't have a code reader. Red triangle and problem message. Is there anything I can do at this point to avoid paying for a tow truck?

 

If you don't have any tools with you the most you can probably do is check to make sure the main fuse on the battery is seated correctly.
Explain what happened when the gas engine stopped running or wouldn't run

SAMSUNG-SM-N900A ?

 

I was driving along and the red triangle appeared. Everything continued to operate as normal until I turned the vehicle off and then the ICE wouldn't start.


Where is the battery fuse? Are you referring to the orange safety disconnecter?

 

The 12V aux battery fuse is attached to the positive terminal. The orange safety switch does not influence what's happening with your Prius at the moment. My guess is that you have a P0A80 again. And if so, back to drawing board.

 

Ok, so is it possible that my voltages weren't matched closely enough before I put the pack into the vehicle, or could the pack's voltage be too high? (>7.75)

 

Until you scan for codes, you are in the dark. Could be something simple or catastrophic.

I always keep a code scanner with me when driving my Prius since the HV battery could die at any moment with a 10+ year old Prius with mucho miles.

 

Looks like I'll be investing in a scanner now being that my car is 11 years old and @ 195k.

Would I be better off with the scanner or that other device that folks have to get real-time data from the vehicle?

 

There are some codes that will allow you to run the car until you shut it off, then it's disabled. Have you tried disconnecting the 12V to resume?

An HV leak is one such code.

Additionally, the ICE should not have been running during the discharge test. That suggests to me something is wrong.

 

Scanning options in my Signature. MiniVCI is the best.

 

Safety disconnect totally influences what is happening at the moment and should be the first thing checked!

 

I'm counting my lucky stars, my neighbor has a car trailer and came to bail me out.

MiniVCI is in the mail, should be here Wednesday.

 

Disconnect the 12 volt battery for a minute and then reconnect. You might get the car to start one time.

Brad