Wheel bold snapped

You might contact a Toyota dealer to see what their willing to do for you. Otherwise, you're probably on the hook for the total cost of a repair. In that case, I would contact more than one garage for a their price to replace the stud. It's not a complicated job, but depending on what needs to be disassembled, it could be a fair amount of work.

Good luck!

 

Any bolt will snap if over-torqued.

 

If that whiteish patina is oxidation, then the bolt was probably fractured some time in the past.

 

That whitish discolorization is from the stress fracturing of the steel at and around the point of failure. Aluminum oxide, titanium oxide is white, steel oxidation (rust) is reddish brown, not white.

 

I'm a little curious/confused. That photo ... is that from your car? It seems to show the broken item standing alone, removed from the wheel hub.

What confuses me is, on U.S. models, we have threaded studs semipermanently pressed into the hub, and we secure the wheel with wheel nuts. If a stud breaks, the hardest part of replacing it is pressing the old broken one out of the hub.

But you have said wheel bolts and the item you've shown seems to be already out of the hub. Could that be because in Norway you actually get wheel bolts instead of studs and wheel nuts?

Or was it a stud just as we get here, and you have already extracted it from the hub? If so, you have already done the difficult part!

To seat the new stud, all you need to do is poke it through from behind the hub and tighten down a wheel nut (open ended) over it to pull it fully through. Then write a check for $300 and send it to me.

Cheers,
-Chap

 

Chapman is right, japaneese makers use lug nuts/studs, european makers use lug bolts.

i broke one stud in old datsun by overtorquing it once. i learned a lesson and purchased a torque wrench.

 

Try another shop. When I snapped a wheel stud on my old Ford, a tire or brake shop replaced it for far far less, even after adjusting for inflation since.

 

Ok, so I finally reached 9542 miles on my 2015 Prius. I decided to wait till nearly 10,000 miles to change it. I first attempted to use a jack and jack stands. The Prius (in my humble opinion) is not made to be safely put on jack stands. No matter where I put the stands (especially where the book and specs says to), the car was never stable enough for me to feel safe going underneath. So, I went to PepBoys and got a Rhino Ramp set. That worked perfectly. I used my driveway’s incline for the back half of the car and rolled onto the ramps where the level garage floor started. This gave me more than enough room. Then it was simply chocking the rear wheels, setting the parking brake and of course putting car in park and I was good to go. Then I took off the panel underneath and loosened the bolt and drained the oil. My oil, at 9542 miles was dirty. It wasn't black, but it definitely was a brown color.


I probably should have changed it at 5,000 miles and I intend to do so every 5,000 miles from now on. The plastic cover for the filter assembly was easy to get off with the tool, but, that being said, plastic should not be the material for the housing. It is so fragile that even using the tool, I broke one tooth on one side of it. I also rotated my tires and in the process, broke a stud on the driver’s side wheel. It was easy to replace, but again, such soft metal for the studs!! I have learned my lesson to torque to the right specs after reading up in Priuschat.
Got the replacement studs from O'Reilly Auto parts. $2.00 each. I bought 10 of them so I had them on hand should this happen again.


To jack my car up to rotate the tires, I have included photos and how I did it all. I didn't have to be underneath the car to rotate the tires, so using the wood supports along the side of the car really helped. The photos also show how I torqued the new stud in using a large socket and the wheel bolt.


Hope this thread and photos is helpful. Looking forward to changing oil at 15,000.

 

don't be so pessimistic....

on the more serious side: is there a company which makes qualitative WAY better studs?
(I'm not really convinced about O'Reilly studs)

 

@Montgomery Thanks for the pics and info on the studs.

I quickly developed a dislike for the front scissor jack location, for jack stand use. Way too flimsy and unstable. This is where I place jack stands at the front:



I do something similar at the rear: there's a reinforced plate zone, just inboard of the rear scissor jack placement point. There's an oblong plug right around there.

 

That's very clever.

I also bought some rhino ramps. I keep them upright against my garage wall, as a parking aid. It's easy to tell if you've tapped one with your bumper.