Wheel Bearing Failure?

know where I can get the front wheel bearing part number for my 2010 toyota prius??

 

Metro Toyota Parts or Village Toyota Parts would be good bets.

-Chap

 

43550-47011 is the Toyota P/N

 

Googling the part number it comes up as "Front Hub And Bearing Assembly". I was thinking I could just change the bearing without changing the hub. Is that possible??

 

I believe if you have the equipment you could probably do it, I have seen the bearings by themselves but for the amount of labor involved it's easier just to change the entire assembly I believe if you have the quipment you could probably do it, I have seen the bearings by themselves but for the mandalay bird calls it's easier just to change the hub.

You could replace a hub by yourself in less than 20 minutes but it would take you much longer than that to attempt to separate the hub to remove the bearing and then put it back together.

For that reason is why you don't see the bearing sold separately by Toyota

 

Toyota Prius Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly Replacement

Tools You'll Need

· 1/2 Torque Wrench

· 1/2" to 3/8" Converter & a 3/8" Short Extension

· 30mm 13 Point Socket & Punch or eBay & Amazon have Toyota 30mm Front Axle Lock Nut Remover Kit which works great

· 21mm Socket for lug nuts, or just use the Prius tire tool

· 17mm Socket for the Tie Rod, Stabilizer Bar, Ball Joint Assembly & Brake Caliper

· 14mm Socket for the Hub Bolts

· 12mm Socket for the Rotor

· 10mm Socket for the Speed Sensor

· Hammer & Wood Block ~ will come in handy for a couple of things

· Flat Head Screw Driver for removing the CV Dust Boot Cover

· Pliers, Channel Lock, or Vise Grip for turning the inverted Tie Rod Nut & some Wire or Rope for the Brake Caliper

Torque Specifications

· Axle Nut 216 Nm (159 ft-lb)

· Lug Nuts 103 Nm (76 ft-lb)

· Brake Caliper 109 Nm (81 ft-lb)

· Ball Joint Assembly 89 Nm (66 ft-lb)

· Wheel Hub 56 Nm (41 ft-lb)

· Tie Rod Castle Lock Nut 74 Nm (54 ft-lb)

Order of Disassembly

· Remove Tire

· Remove Axle Nut

· Remove Speed Sensor

· Remove Brake Caliper

· Remove Rotor

· Remove Tie Rod

· Remove Upper Stabilizer Bar

· Remove Ball Joint Assembly

· Remove Axle

· Remove CV Boot Dust Shield

· Remover Hub Assembly

Order of Reassembly

·Reinstall Hub Assembly & Dust Shield

·Reinstall Speed Sensor

·Reinstall CV Boot Dust Shield

·Reinstall Axle

·Reinstall Ball Joint Assembly

·Reinstall Tie Rod

·Reinstall Upper Stabilizer Bar

·Reinstall Axle Nut

·Reinstall Rotor

·Reinstall Brake Caliper

·Reinstall Tire

 

Timken is a good brand. I have yet to see a timken part that is made anywhere else other than Japan.

 

Anybody knows how long I can drive on a bad wheel bearing. I've ordered the part but would take a month to be delivered here in west Africa

XT1060 ?

 

I had the left front hub bearing go out in my 2010 Prius. I could hear the sound but there was little to no movement in the wheel. Where I drive (near Dallas, Texas) the roads are flat and generally in pretty good shape. Mine was fine for over a month. Keep your ears and eyes on it and you should be good till the part comes in.

I also considered changing the bearing without changing the hub. I also was looking at the Timken bearing (and I think this is the OEM part). For this job you would need a press. I kept my old one in case I get industrious in the future. Anyone else performed this operation?

 

Mixed issue.

If you catch a failing bearing early, you can just replace it, but often, you have to replace the bearing and the "race" that mates with it. Usually, one scores the other, so a new bearing needs a new race or you get premature wear on the new bearing.

 

It's been awhile and I may be mistaken but I think the bearing include the race...

 

what is a "race"?

 

Its part of the bearing.

It's generally a ring with a groove where the ball or roller part of the bearing ride upon.

wikipedia: Race (bearing) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In this example the outer race is stationary and the inner race is rotating with the wheel.

 

Does this mean I would have it included when I buy a completely new wheel bearing assembly?

XT1060 ?

 

YES.

 

Great info here! Our 2010 is at around 136,000 miles and has been getting louder. I replaced both rear bearings myself after discovering they sounded like cans dragging behind the car - much quieter now. The fronts are now to the point of needing to be replaced badly with the telltale howling noise. The rears took me quite a bit longer than I would have expected and they seem "easy" compared to the fronts. I'm not afraid to work on them, but do not belove I have the time/expertise to get the fronts done without major delays and frustrations.

I have called my trusted local independent shop and they said it was a big job - estimated 3-4 hours/side @ 112.50/hr plus parts (est. $225 for Timken or SKF)

My local Toyota dealer, also trusted and long-time customer, is quoting $589.10/side. Do you all think that sound reasonable given the amount of work involved?

Thanks!

 

In my option... if you replaced the rear you should not have a problem doing the front.
I would say 2-3 hours per side should be sufficient. Messing with the bearing may be the wildcard on the timing.

I used a lift which made it easier but I've seen others do it without a lift. If you're a DIY'er and did the rear... you should have no problems.

 

Full disclosure, I've never replaced bearings, on any car. I have had the rear rotors off when doing the brakes. I'd think doing the rear bearings is significantly simpler than the fronts. The fronts have a tricky seal? And maybe some suspension disconnection?

 

This is in-line with a quote from a Toyota dealer here in Central Texas for the same work.

 

Dealers are so overpriced it's not funny.....YIKES