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What services you need and what you don't

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by galaxee, Feb 22, 2007.

  1. Iamjo20

    Iamjo20 Member

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  2. JasonUTT

    JasonUTT Junior Member

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    Hey guys,

    I purchased a 2005 Prius with 143k miles. I have copies of the service records from the previous owner. Regular oil and filter changes with Amsoil Signature and tire rotations were completed every 5k miles. Besides that the only maintenance was the following:

    96k - replace serpentine belt
    102k - transmission and coolant service
    112k - 12v battery replaced

    From what I can tell the 120k maint was not performed so I plan to have it serviced and replace oil and filter, rotate tires, replace cabin and engine air filters and replace the spark plugs at this time.

    I live in Dallas and travel 60+ miles daily.

    Two questions:
    1. Is it worth the extra $$$ to continue to use the Amsoil Signature oil (25k miles between oil changes) or switch to something else? If so, what would you recommend?
    2. What other maintenance items would you recommend besides checking/topping off all fluid levels? Both now and in future intervals?

    I'd like to keep this car on the road as long as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Toyota has a pretty good oil, dirt cheap up here, you might ask about that. Do check the cabin and engine filters if you haven't already: they may be ok. Don't top up brake fluid, it's meant to drop as pads wear.

    Speaking of brakes: much mention of them in the service history? They should be looked over periodically, the calipers (in the front) pulled off, pads cleaned/checked/lubed, caliper pins pulled out and relubed.

    Have the underside looked over, exhaust, suspension, bolts.
     
  4. JasonUTT

    JasonUTT Junior Member

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    Quick response in here. I guess the posters are just as efficient as their cars! :)

    I don't mind paying the extra $$ for better oil. What's the recommended interval for the Toyota oil?

    I appreciate the feedback on the brakes. I plan to have the whole car given a good once over. I was looking more for guidance on parts/fluids that would need to be serviced/changed at this time. If not now, at what mileage/intervals?

    This is the recommended inspection parts @ 120k I plan to have included in the once over:

    Automatic transmission fluid
    Ball joints and dust covers
    Brake lines and hoses
    Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs
    Differential oil
    Drive belts
    Drive shaft boots
    Engine and inverter coolant
    Engine valve clearance
    Exhaust pipes and mountings
    Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses
    Fuel tank cap gasket
    Radiator, condenser and intercooler
    Steering gear box
    Steering linkage and boots
     
    #864 JasonUTT, Jan 23, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2016
  5. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    Changing the brake fluid isn't mentioned

    Start following the schedule in the manual, which includes 5000 miles for dino oil changes if you go that route. There's a light on the dash to remind you.

    If the 12V battery was replaced more than four years ago, keep a close eye on that.

    One thing I make a habit of checking in used cars is the air pressure in the spare tire. The one in the used '07 I just bought was down to zero. I'm pretty sure I was the first person ever to open up the spare compartment. Not a scratch on any of the tools.
     
  6. metamorphosis

    metamorphosis Junior Member

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    Hi guys-
    quick question, just got my service done, and they're recommending a brake fluid flush because the liquid is quite 'dark'. Does that sound alright? Car is at 229224 kilometres now, gen2 2005.
    Also, can a regular place do it or do you really have to go through toyota for the brake fluid flush to get it done right?

    They also mentioned the battery wasn't the right type, which is odd because I bought the car from a toyota dealership, and haven't had any problems with it in terms of stopping/starting etc.

    Thanks in advance,
    Matt
     
  7. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    Definitely change the brake fluid. Very expensive ABS parts are at risk. Toyota software is needed to cycle the ABS pump, but an independent mechanic or DIYer with that software can do it. A $25 package, called Mini VCI, is available.

    Does your car have SKS (smart key)? If so, you need the right battery for that. You can check the part number on the invoice from the dealership, make sure it's the right one. (Presumably we're talking about the 12 Volt.)
     
  8. Redpoint5

    Redpoint5 Senior Member

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    What do you mean you need the right battery for SKS? The computer has no way to determine what battery is connected.

    I for sure will not be buying the Toyota battery when it comes time to change it out.
     
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Meaning the 35 Ah for non-SKS or the 45 Ah for the SKS.
     
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  10. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    Metamorphosis has another,older thread going now that has a photo of the 12V battery. It's clearly the wrong battery if you look at the vent tube. The mechanic must've caught that on visual inspection.
     
  11. ETP

    ETP 2021 Prime(Limit),Highlander HYB Plat,B52-D,G,F,H

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    Bought two batteries at the dealer with a very long warranty and did the R&R myself. Can't remember the price but is was the same as Autozone at the time with the same long warranty.
     
  12. cwerdna

    cwerdna Senior Member

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    Correct. There were two different sized 12 volt batteries on Gen 2 Prius. Ones w/o SKS came w/a smaller (both in capacity and physical size) battery.
     
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  13. Redpoint5

    Redpoint5 Senior Member

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    FYI- I measured the parasitic draw (car off and parked) of my PiP with SKS at 13 mA. In theory, it would take 144 days to completely drain a 45 Ah battery, and 112 days on a 35 Ah battery. Now, you wouldn't want to wait even a fraction of that amount of time without charging (running the vehicle or plugging into a float charger). I'd say you wouldn't want to use more than about 20% of the charge because lead-acid batteries are damaged by allowing them to be partially discharged for long periods of time. I'd put the car on a charger if it sat for more than 3 weeks.

    That's one reason I want to switch to LiFePO4; it can safely be discharged to 20% of capacity without being damaged. I estimate a 20 Ah LiFePO4 battery would have as much useful capacity as a 45 Ah lead acid, while lasting longer before needing replacement, weighing less, and being much more efficient to charge.
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    NutzAboutBolts has created a video on DIY brake fluid change. It doesn't require Techstream, just a series of gear shifts and pedal pushes to get the car into a special "invalid" mode. It's about #4 video down the page here:

    Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

    And yes, brake fluid does need regular changes. The Canadian Schedule has always shown an interval for this, and recently tightened it somewhat, believe 3 year or 48,000 km? Not sure about the US schedule. But brake fluid absorbs water over time, and then things start rusting in there.
     
  15. metamorphosis

    metamorphosis Junior Member

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    Thanks guys, I'll leave it to the toyota techs to do - and I'll get them to follow up with the dealer I bought it from regards battery- thanks once again!
     
  16. azrider

    azrider New Member

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  17. Currahee

    Currahee Member

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    A local mechanic I asked refuses to do coolant changes on Prius due to an experience with stuck coolant valve after engine coolant change. Is this a common side effect? Hobbit's guide mentions manipulating the valve in Techstream. I already had that valve replaced a couple years ago and it was not cheap.
     
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  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    it is difficult, but not impossible to bleed the air out without tech stream, after a coolant change. there are many helpful threads here, all the best!(y)
     
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  19. Eastside

    Eastside Member

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    Per the YouTube videos and instructions here and on other sites, the coolant change process is a pain compared to most other vehicles. The air purge process adds time and effort. . . . Since no new parts are involved, there is no 100-300% parts markup for the shop's profit.

    Unless a local mechanic has alot of free time on their hands, they'd probably rather do the higher profit services.
    . . .
     
    bisco likes this.
  20. Prius49507

    Prius49507 Junior Member

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    Hi Everyone-
    I have a 2006 Prius, purchased September 2014 with 99k.
    Since purchasing, I have had Fuel Induction Service and A/C Service performed (and regular oil changes).

    Had my oil changed this week and the dealer (where I purchased) told me I am due for a 120k service package.
    The price is $1043, and I'm a single, non-mechanically-inclined female with no Prius-savvy friends--which is why I'm here.

    I assume that I need all the services in this package, but I wanted to check with the experts first.
    I read the first post in this thread, but some of the services required by my dealer have different names.
    This list is what the dealer gave me.

    First Priorities
    Brake inspection-test drive, report condition, clean/adjust rear brakes $36
    Replace engine coolant $130
    Inverter service $180
    Replace spark plugs 4cyl $180
    Replace auto tranny fluid $125
    Replace PCV valve $50

    Second Priorities
    Fuel induction service $185
    Brake flush $145
    Inspect ball joints, dust covers, drive shaft boots, engine air filter, nuts/bolts, steering linkage $50
    Replace cabin air filter $55

    Should I do them all at once? Break them up into 2+ appointments? Get a quote from a different Toyota dealer? Go to a non-dealer?
    The dealer mentioned "knocking off 10%, which really adds up". (Hell yeah.)

    This is a HUGE chunk of money for me, and I greatly appreciate any advice.
     
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