2010 Prius Check Hybrid System message

welcome! definitely. you need a new battery, is it original?

 

that's a pretty good run. many 2010's didn't last more than a few years.

 

you have to go to toyota and have the trouble codes read. unfortunately, they will charge you for this. if you're dying, you can buy a reader, around $75. and a bit complicated to use.

it's also possible that the light needs to be shut off with a reader.

 

check @ChapmanF , he recommends a good one, i believe. don't buy a non prius specific.

 

check your inverter fluid reservoir for movement while in 'ready'.

 

not sure, but if there's no swirling, the pump is bad. there have been extended warranties, but not sure about 2010.

 

At the moment, I'm making do with one of the Mini VCI clones, but supposedly what makes them usable with Techstream is that they're J2534 compatible, which means other J2534 adapters might (should?) work. I've got a "to do" item for "buy a Tactrix OpenPort and try that" but I haven't yet, so I can't report on how well it works. Even Tactrix faces a clone problem, if you really want to support them doing their development and manufacturing in the US, you pretty much have to buy from their website ... anything that says "Tactrix OpenPort" sold anywhere else, especially if the price is really fabulous, probably isn't one.

-Chap

Edit: in fact, the particular Mini VCI clone I've ended up with isn't able to talk to the engine controller, which is the last thing you'd expect, usually you're worried about tools that will talk to the engine controller and not other things. It's weird. Apparently there are Mini VCI versions that don't have that problem ... in the world of Mini VCI clones (and they're all clones now, I think they drove the original developer right out of the business), it all comes down to which version of the original MVCI your clone happens to be a clone of.

 

Hi.
Was the new battery charged?
To "reset" the Hybrid warning you can unplug the 12V battery for, I think 15 to 20 minutes. After that, when you plug it back in the system will run new diagnostics.

 

a new fully charged 12v should be around 13 volts stone cold. if you get the car running, it will take a lot of driving to get it up to snuff, because the car is more of a maintainer than a charger. the diagnostics probably knock off a couple tenths from the reading due to a small draw with the car on. low 12's should fire the computers and relays.

 

I only checked the voltage on the 12V battery using a multimeter. I don't know how to check the voltage on board way cause I think I couldn't find the "info" button.
My voltages were as follow:
- when the car is OFF I got 12,9V.
I didn't test it in "Accessory mode" (when the Power button is orange).
- when ON I got 14,3V.
With 10,8V - 11,1V I don't think you need to jump-start the car. The car should run but this voltage is still bad. I did discharge my battery once to 10,5V-10,8V, had the Hybrid warning come up but I could drive it. Later I unplugged just the negative cable from the battery and left it for I think 20 minutes. Just to be safe you could leave it for 30 minutes. After that I plugged the negative back and the warning disappeared. If you'll do that all your statistics will be lost and the hybrid system will do a diagnostic on the car so the car won't turn ON the first time you'll push the break and press Power. Just turn it off with Power button and turn it ON again (haha IT Crowd quote: "Have you tried turning it off and on again?" :-D ).
After I discharged my battery so low I had a 2 day trip and did about 2500km ~ 1525miles and the battery came back to it's good state like I showed above.

The manual says:

Also:

Adobe Reader page number 584 (manual in PDF version) or document page number 563.
I'll upload the Full Manual in PDF to my drive and you can download it from there if you don't have it. Tried to upload it here but couldn't cause it's too big.
Instruction - Google Drive

If you are stationary the petrol engine should not start and if you are in Neutral gear the petrol engine will not start for sure. I don't know how the petrol engine will work in the diagnostics mode when you read out the voltage. I don't know what's the minimum distance you would need to do to recharge your 12V but it's possible. You'll be better with getting a charger but remember those 12V batteries have small capacities so the charging rates are 4.2 A max.
With the state of your battery I would let it charge for at least whole night. Just remember they emit gas when charging so don't put it in the same room as you.

 

The Prius doesn't have an alternator. Was the "cap" on the positive battery terminal seated properly?

It's time to buy a trickle charger and a digital multimeter. They are not expensive.

The inverter coolant tank is on the driver's side. If you don't see any turbulence in the tank your trip will last as long as the inverter doesn't get "too hot". The cause may or may not be under warranty. Check warranty status at Toyota Owners Official Web Site .

 

If the inverter didn't reach a specific temperature I don't think there would be a reason for the pump to start.

 

interesting, i never heard that before, thank you.