Gen II Prius Individual Battery Module Replacement

Yes I would...I don't really have $400 right now to spend for it...where can you rent them?

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Any issues charging at 5A using Hitec X4 AC+ and a good cooling fan running into the stock plenum at the bottom of the pack?

The rest of my settings seem to match everyone else:
NiMH sensitivity: default
Waste time: 5 minutes
Discharge: 1A to 6.0V
Capacity cut-off: 7250mAh
D>C: 3

 

Just don't balance adjacent modules at the same time. Keep the widely spaced so as to use the modules not under charge as heat sinks for the ones that are under charge.

JeffD

 

Thanks JeffD. I didn't want to cook the modules but had read that 1C was ok with enough cooling. I am cycling every other module as you suggested and the highest temperature I've observed at the top of a charging module is 35C so far and I can feel lots of airflow from between the modules.

 

I would space the modules under charge more widely. There are 28 modules so you can have 4 or 5 idle modules between the ones under charge.

JeffD

 

The modules not under charge seemed to be staying around ambient temperature here at 25C but I'll space them out more for the next batch. I'm all for the safer approach.

 

that screenshot from eBay - I saw a lot of sellers specifically highlighting in their auctions that those modules were "tested 7.X volts". They never say if they have ever load tested for remaining capacity, what was the load, temperature, method of procedure...FYI - numerous sellers like that one have no clue of what the condition of the module they sell. That inspired me for making this Video:

 

He's got the right suggestion in regards to pairing donor and old modules in blocks - just make sure "in blocks" not just pairing those. e.g. starting from one end 1(old) 2 (donor) 3 (old) 4(donor) etc. That way there is a possibility of Delta V seen by BMS may stay within the allowed threshold. I have done tests on my Analyser and observed URC with pairing like that vs just adding donors as a bulk at the end. Huge difference in URC (my terminology - Usable Remaining Capacity)...
Wrong way would be 1(old) 2 (old) 3(donor) 4 (donor)... Although 2+3 is a "pair" of old + donor - it is not the same "block" from the BMS point of view...

 

Thanks for info... what causes my battery to drain overnight no matter what I do or have done in the past after a repair?

I do not notice bars dropping usually until starting off and acceleration begins is when SoC drops.

My mother's 2006 never drains, even if sitting for a week.

Can this be caused by imbalance of modules, or is it more likely just weak modules with high discharge rate due to not being able to hold a charge while sitting?

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One of the critical tests for a used module is its rate of self discharge. A good module will hold its charge for months without dropping below 7.5 volts (it will quickly lose its surface charge in hours after charging and drop for 8+ volts to about 7.8 volts). You live in a hot climate and that stresses the HV battery. It is likely that you will need to replace all of your modules with a younger set.

JeffD

 

Okay, that's what I had figured and still trying to do.

Found a gen 3 pack 26 miles away with 22k for $700ish on car-part.com but I'll bet they want my core.

Getting ready to call and ask.

Guy wants a little too much for ones on eBay.



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If they require your core, just put your 2004 modules into the Gen3 battery and give it back.

JeffD

 

Will do... just gotta borrow some cash somehow first.

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You may need to charge up and test the Gen3 modules as part of this process.

JeffD

 

Just to confirm, will the HA reconditioning kit do fine for that?

Message from eBay:

New message from: hybridautomotive (512)

Hello, Thanks for your note. I would recommend the Prolong Battery Reconditioning Package:
Prolong Battery Reconditioning Package – Hybrid Automotive

It has everything needed to charge and discharge the battery - to recondition it and keep the pack running as strong as possible. The Standard kit is for charging only. You can use it on the Gen3 modules in a Gen2 without a problem. The charger unit is identical for both vehicles. The only difference is in the car harness. You want to get the version for the vehicle you have, so in your case a Gen2 Prius.

To service you second vehicles hybrid battery, you will only need to purchase one additional car harness:
Prolong Battery Systems Car Harness - Discharge Ready Version – Hybrid Automotive

The combination of these two items is everything needed to recondition the battery of both cars. Hope this helps -Jeff



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Yes it will charge and condition the pack (after you swap the modules), It will also serve to do most of the testing requires (using the discharge add-on).

JeffD

 

That's what I'll do then... I wanna be done with this battery nightmare as easy as, and for long as possible this time.

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Doing the initial reconditioning treatment and replacing failed modules if needed will get you back on the road. Using the Prolong Battery System to perform regular maintenance on the battery will keep it running strong for the long term :
How frequently should I use the Prolong Battery System on my hybrid battery? - Hybrid Automotive

 

Have you tested the presence of the voltage on the casing vs any of the poles - e.g. most negative or most positive? Should be none, but if yes - it points at the leakage of electrolyte. That is a path for self-discharge and it could be dangerous for you to touch with one hand (concrete floor is conductive and if casing is on the floor ...not good for safety). You mentioned you are short on money - I assume you are saving on electric gloves as well. If two assumptions as above are true - you are at risk (health and safety wise).

 

I read somewhere it could be a leakage.

How do I test for it? I don't fully understand what to do.

I do have size 10 class 0 gloves I use that I bought last year for this.

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