Help! Prius died while driving on highway.

It really kinda depends on the code.

Sometimes the code just says you need a new air filter, or your MAF could use a cleaning, or your 12v battery is going. These are things you could easily do yourself following a YouTube video guide even if you have zero experience working on cars. Even if it's something a bit more complex, like changing out a leaking coolant pump... If the price to have the dealership read the code is $120 then the price for the part and installation is $200, it's kinda nice to end up paying $200 rather than $320.

I've only owned my Prius a little over two years and I've saved probably somewhere around $1000 in that time fixing various things myself. And I'm not a car person.

Also if your car is out of warranty (and most gen 2 Prii are at this point) it's kinda nice to be able to do your own diagnostic to make sure the dealership or mechanic you're going to isn't pulling things out of their nice person just to charge you more. My local Prius expert tells me it's quite common for shops to tell Prius owners they need new brakes when their brakes are actually completely fine, for instance. The regen braking on our cars doesn't use the brake pads at all, which means the pads wear at a much slower rate than they do on a conventional car.

 

this is a COPY of the real software loaded with viruses...when I first used it my anti virus went off like a fire alarm, I put it on an old XP laptop and turned off the wifi... you will not get $2000 worth of software for $24.95 with out a catch

 

thank you for the heads up. i have been recommending this for years, based on others experience, not my own.

 

Says you. There is no need to take that risk if you think it is a possibility. The genuine (virus free) TS software is available free of charge from the genuine Toyota Europe support site here. This site is linked to from the US TIS site on the other useful links page.

I have asked people that made exaggerated claims like that, and it turned out that is a single (and unnecessary) file that quarantined. It is a file that is a utility for the cable that has no real use and is not necessary for using Techstream. If you really do get multiple genuine hits on your virus checker, junk that CD immediately and get a copy from a better source. The cheapest is not necessarily the cheapest (in the long run).

As I said above, the TS software is free, you pay $2000 for the hardware Toyota sells. You pay $24.95 for the cable and software drivers to install it. And the catch with MVCI is that is is a cheap knock-off of a another cheap knock-off.

Please refrain from making irrational exaggerated claims.

I will concede it is better to err on the side of caution and install TS on a standalone laptop that has no network connection to the outside world, used only with TS installed. That way you can use it worry free without a virus checker running in the background slowing it down.

 

Technically, the software download is free, BUT you must buy a license to use it, to be 100% legitimate anyway. There are ways around this of course. For me, it's better to buy a Mini VCI for $20 than the official Techstream VIM dealer equipment.


iPhone ?

 

Not true. You can legitimately use TS in offline mode if you set the initialisation parameters correctly. The same as you do with the software supplied on the CD that comes with your (illegitimate) cable.

MiniVCI is just the cable, used in place of the Mongoose cable supplied by Toyota, and has no bearing on the discussion of TS.

 

This is what I'm thinking. Did you load test the aux battery? If not, how would you know the voltage required to power some of the accessories was within spec?
The inverter must have overheated, and the computer suddenly turns off the hybrid system, to prevent further failures. Check the coolant control valve for a P1121 code.
Lastly, I hope the traction battery hasn't failed yet?

 

No, it is essentially flat, so needs to be charged to full using a low Amp (2.5 A - 4 A) charger that has a AGM setting. It will take several hours, doing it overnight is best–gets around watched pot syndrome.

The question after that is will it hold a charge under load, to determine whether the battery is workable. This is the next thing to do once charged up. Let it sit for 2 hours after taking the charger off, then measure the standing voltage. If it is less than 12.6 V don't bother doing anything else, that battery has seen its best days–replace. If, so far so good, put a 10-20 A load on the battery (radio on, headlights on high). If it cannot hold a voltage for 5-10 min above 11 V, replace the 12 V battery.

 

Aaaaaaa

would advice after you did the test at the battery shop, to installed it in the car. Start the car, and test it for available voltage. You're supposed to get something of the range of 12-13vokts, I think.

 

If that's in accessory mode (single tap on the power button, no foot brake) with the headlights, AC, stereo and all other accessories turned off then it's low. If you double tapped the power button or left a bunch of accessories on it might be okay. Any accessories you leave on will draw power from that battery and lower the value you see on that screen.

 

Good answer.
I'd say given this approach and attitude it is worth it to hunt down the codes.
Good Luck and I hope it does turn out to be something relatively simple, minor and inexpensive to fix.

 

I doubt it would be the inverter (but you have confirmed you have fluid turbulence in the inverter reservoir, right?), your symptoms point to the HV battery again having problems. In your outline of what you did, there is no indication you did any balancing work. Also, if the replacement module you "subbed" in was not of similar characteristics and with a similar IR as the rest of your modules, your repair will not last for long.

You need to re-read the codes to see what codes are there now.

The U0121 you mentioned earlier prompts me to ask how is the health of your 12 V battery?

Have you had any success getting your MVCI working?

 

almost two months, thanks for updating us! is this a hobby car?

 

just went through the C1310 on my 2008..... mine turned out to be a leaking cell in the HV battery... the screw at the bottom of e cell goes into the POSITIVE size of the battery (stupid idea) leak causes a short to ground, send that code.... you will want to remove the modules from the case and look for a brown rust spot, that's the acid leak...test each module rom the negative post to the positive screw on the bottom, any voltage reading at all indicated a leak ...... at least that was what was wrong with my car..

 

That is a significant clue and you need to figure out why this is happening. Check the tightness of the 12V battery cables, both at the battery itself and on the body side of the negative cable. If there exists any corrosion on the terminals this needs to be cleaned off.

Also, if the traction battery modules are missing hardware holding the modules to the battery enclosure, who knows what else is missing or loose. This is evidence of poor workmanship - I would suggest checking the tightness of all cabling within the battery enclosure, while reducing exposure to high voltage by first removing the orange interlock switch.