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Augh!! P3000, P0A80, P3021, C1259 on an '07

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by jerrymildred, May 29, 2017.

  1. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I have 97k on it. Still under warranty until October 2019
     
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  2. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Thanks, Ed. The heat might have been a contributing factor. But not letting it cool for an hour after the final charge was my own fault. It always pays to reread the instructions no matter how many times you've done something like this. According to the codes, all I need is #11, but I think I'll see if Todd wants to double check if he has a quick way to do that on the bench. Probably, though, I'll just buy what I need if he has it and get it home and get working on it.

    Not out of the car yet. I took your PM advice and left it bolted down overnight to finish cooling, if there's such a thing in FL right now. I'm about to have breakfast and it'll come out.

    I didn't know that about the older gen 2 modules. I'm sure Todd will educate me some more later this morning. Whether my brain can contain it all, remains to be seen LOL! Thanks again for all the time you've spent advising me, JC.
     
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  3. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I just put the battery on the bench and opened it up. Looks like I have lots of work to do. Here's a panorama shot of the bus bars on one side. The opposite side isn't nearly as bad but will need cleaning. I reduced the scale of the picture to cut back on the file size. Panoramas get pretty huge. You can't see it, but from the marks on top, I'd say that numbers 4, 11, 12, and 17 were replaced at some point in the past. These are labeled "N4, N11," etc. The others just have the numerals.
     

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  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I thought you were much further along on the disassembly. The 4 bolts I thought you were referring to were the module clamping bolts, next to the venting tubes. I didn't know you mean the mounting bolts to the car.

    Anyways, it's on the bench. Doesn't look too bad. Remove the bus bars so it can be handled safely. Remove all the copper bus bars and soak those in vinegar, that'll get rid of the corrosion before you reinstall back on the car.

    The pack looks original, all the side markings are similar. I don't think anything has been replaced on a 2007 with so few miles
     
  5. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    It turns out that it had been rebuilt. We talked over various options I could have just replaced the bad module for really cheap and then cleaned the bus bars and nuts. But Todd also showed me how the corrosion is getting into the crimped connectors and even into the wires. He said sometimes the failure is actually in the wiring but the ECU doesn't know the difference. Mine looked pretty bad in that regard, although I'm almost positive I had a bad cell. But, from the looks of the corrosion in there, the battery was soon going to have problems even without my dumb mistake in driving it too soon after grid charging.

    A the other extreme was all new 3rd gen cells. Todd had several of various ages already put together. The price range from oldest to newest was pretty narrow because the price he pays for parts is a narrow band.

    So I was face with basically a choice of really cheap but wondering when I'll have another failure on a 10 year old battery that's already been rebuilt, or a nearly new battery with a one year warranty for a whole lot less than a brand new one fro Toyota.

    I reluctantly took the expensive way out and he made me a good price on one that has cells from a 2015 that had 18,000 miles on it when salvaged. And it has a one year warranty. And I should be able to get my wife back on the road by tomorrow morning.

    Now, before I put it in, I want to double check the torque on the bus bar nuts just to be safe. Going to look that up, check them, and start putting the car back together.

    An expensive mistake in not letting it cool down after charging, but it's better than having it fail somewhere out in the wild on a trip several months later.
     
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  6. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    My wife's '07 now has a battery from a 2015 Prius, retrofitted to a Gen 2 battery frame. It's a two year old battery with only 18,000 miles on it. I need to get all the trim reinstalled, but here are the results from a test drive. I drove it around our residential neighborhood and then took it on the nasty high speed stop and go highway next to us for about 3-4 miles toward the end. Once it got warmed up and the battery leveled out, I think it did rather well. :) Thanks, @TampaPrius.com and @JC91006 for all your help!!
    IMG_6059.JPG IMG_6060.PNG
     
    #26 jerrymildred, May 30, 2017
    Last edited: May 30, 2017
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  7. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    How did your reconditioning go, Doug? Hope it fixed the rapid fluctuations.
     
  8. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    I took it off final charge at 7am and came back and drove it at lunch. Nope, no fluctuations and it retained full blue bars much longer. (y)

    I realized another way to determine falling battery performance on mine: the ability (or lack thereof) to maintain an EV glide at around 40mph. After the reconditioning treatment, it can now go for long stretches on a level road in EV whereas before it was constantly going in/out or just flat would not maintain EV at speeds approaching the 42mph EV limit.
     
  9. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Is it possible to remove the battery cover safely while the battery is stilll bolted in the car to check for corrosion or does the entire battery have to come out for that please?
     
  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Battery does not need to come out to "look". But you should remove the battery if you need to clean them. You want to have enough space to move around safely.

    But it's possible to do everything while the pack is in the car. If you're careful enough, it can be done
     
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  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    How often are you reconditioning the pack?
     
  12. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Twice per year: jan1 and july 4th has been my schedule so, obviously, this one came early when I notice the fluctuations last friday. We only put about 5k miles on it since getting the grid charger last July 4th. I kick myself in the butt for not putting it on techstream to see which module(s) were acting up before starting this reconditioning. arrrrgh!

    Anyways, I have a dilemma. A week from now both my son (the other driver) and I will be gone out of state for 2+ weeks. I'll plead with the wife to drive it as much as possible but I know she'll take it out once or twice on a short errand at most.
     
  13. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Discharging to even 29 volts seems pretty low, and there is no guaranty that you didn't reverse bias a cell.

    The voltage on the weakest cell was: 29 - (sum of all other cell voltages), and there is absolutely no way of knowing for certain that this evaluates to a positive number.

    Given that the pack was a rebuilt one, so possibly not all that well balanced or matched to start with, I think a reversed cell is more likely the real problem rather than driving it too soon.

    BTW. What is the recommend discharge level for the pack discharger? I've never done it, but thought that the normal levels where more like about 150V down to 70V, depending how deep a discharge you wanted to risk.
     
  14. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I agree the battery cell probably died from a reverse charge. 29v = about 1v per module of 6 cells.

    Although the instructions from prolong says to discharge all the way down to 17v, I don't feel that's a safe level to do multiple times. I tend to stop at 134v on reconditioning.

    Those of you that have the prolong system, see if you notice the difference doing 3 discharges down to 134v and not below. You'll be surprised the results will be just as good without the added danger of reverse charging by going too low on the discharge.

    Remember Toyota limits the battery usage to 40 percent on the low and 80 percent on the high. That's to give the battery a 10 year life. If you continuously go outside that range, you'll end up killing your battery prematurely.

    Just my opinion.......
     
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  15. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I think you have a good point. With all cells being only two years old and from the same battery, it should be be years before I need to do a grid charge again, but if no one rear ends this car and it hold up long enough otherwise, I think I'll go that route.
     
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  16. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Thanks JC.

    FYI- I bought a discharger months ago the old school 2 light bulb system and was going to do a discharge over the Holiday weekend also but found in my wisdom I had misplaced the discharger cable. I called Hybrid and was told my already installed charger cable can be modified by removing the inline diode and installing a 3 amp fuse in its place. Then it becomes a charger/discharger cable.
     
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  17. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    JC can 134 volts be achieved by one set of light bulbs or do you still have to change bulbs to get there please?
     
  18. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Ed, according to the instructions with mine, you start with two 200 watt bulbs. At 196V, you switch to 75 watt bulbs. At 140V you switch to 25 watt bulbs.
    Here's the link to the guide. Prolong Simple Discharger User Guide – Hybrid Automotive
     
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  19. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I first start off charging the battery for 12 hours. I know others have suggested charging 24 hours before beginning a discharge cycle. But I feel that's not necessary as you're working with a battery that's above 210v in the car. Only time I charge 24 hours is from a deep discharge 134v or lower. I try not to overcharge the battery as much as possible.

    I normally use 100w bulbs down to around 201v, then switch to 60w down to 180v, then 25w going further. Prolong suggests you can use 60w down to 140v. But I have plenty of time and want to use a low current so I reduce the risk of reverse charge. 25w takes a little longer, but that's only 2 or 3 hours more. No biggie.

    I don't have the intelligent discharger so I usually split my discharge into 2 days. First day would be around 4 hours going from full charge down to 201v (stay within nominal range of car specs).

    2nd day I do the deep discharge down to 134v (if you miss this mark and go a little lower, it's no big deal). You'll know the pack is nearing empty at this point because your 25w bulbs are starting to get pretty dim.

    I do this so I don't waste 8+ hours of my day discharging and looking at that battery. I usually start after dinner and stop by bedtime. Charge back up at night time while I sleep.

    I do the same on charging back up. Split into 2 days, only charging while I sleep. 9 hours at a time. Final charge would be longer at 12 hours at a time.

    I have a set up where I do this inside or outside the car. I find it easier outside the car and I have more flexibility. I use the same setup, buying an extra battery fan from a wrecked prius. So there's no difference either way.

    All this is just my experience and my opinion of how things work. I'm not a battery pro but an extreme hobbyist.
    1496242924782.jpeg
     
    #39 JC91006, May 31, 2017
    Last edited: May 31, 2017
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  20. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Thanks JC & Jerry for you help. Going for it this weekend.
     
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