Radio Auxiliary Install?

Yeap, I forgot to plug-in the three heater/AC plugs. Now they work.

I also failed to lock the speedometer plugs. Once seated, no problem.

Now the MFD does not show the battery level and the MPG has failed in an amusing way. But it does show the tripmeter miles. I'll post photos later.

Sad to say but my cruise control indicator is still dark after replacing the bulb which started this effort.

Bob Wilson

 

Never seen cruise work with the indicator light not working. Must be a break somewhere in the wiring. If cruise doesn't work it could be the clock spring/spiral cable in the steering column.

 

The cruise control works fine. It is just the indicator light. I agree, likely broken wire. Or I swapped the wrong light.

Bob Wilson

 

The MFD does not show the battery level and the MPG has failed in an amusing way.

I am sure the OBD bus to this unit is not working due to a loose connector. But I may hold off a couple of hundred miles before fixing. <GRINS>

I am also pretty sure the ORANGE wire is part of a common circuit for all indicators because the heater/AC controls are dark at night. But it is not clear, yet, if it expects a pot to ground or pot from the B+. Regardless, not only is the clock dark but the heater/AC controls too.

Still testing the new unit but so far:

• the unit clock works
• FM receiver works
• bluetooth paired with primary phone - had to delete another phone (open box special) but have not tested a call yet

Bob Wilson

 

I've misplaced my electrical schematics book and just ordered a replacement. However, looking through the maintenance manuals, I learned there is a terminator resistor in the original AM/FM/cassette unit. This may explain why the MFD can not see or access the OBD buss.

I also took a closer look at the clock wires and sure enough, the orange one is labeled illumination. Speculation but I suspect the original unit may have also had something to do with generating the illumination voltage on that orange wire. If I have time, I'll ohm it out sometime this week (raining this morning.)

If anyone can post the two AM/FM/cassette unit connectors with the color code and signal names, it would help. In particular, look for:

• orange wire - what is it connected to?
• pair of signal wires between the rear speaker wires - what are they connected to?

Bob Wilson

 

Ok,

The schematic arrived and identified connector R4 that is 'in free air:'

• TX+, TX- measure 68.9 ohms, a termination resistor
• GND - is common between all three connectors
• ACC+B (key switch controlled) - is isolated between connector R3 and R4
• BU+B (always on) - is isolated between connector R3 and R4

The real problem is there are more pins and signals than the schematic shows. Also, we can't tell if the "Center Cluster SW" is source or sink. But source makes sense because BU+B and ACC+B are high resistance, > 5-10 Meg. ohm:

• Connector R4 is on the left.
• Connector R3 is in the center.
• Connector R2 is on the right.
• The image has a top, edge, and bottom view stacked together.

More questions than answers but the reason for having this board powered up begins to make more sense.

Would anyone have a schematic or pointer to a schematic for the radio/cassette board? I can trace it out but it would be easier with a schematic due to the number of complex ICs on the board.

Bob Wilson

 

Anyone have a source for the "Toyota cd changer brakets" that attach to a single din radio?

 

I can't seem to find this "dice ipod thingy" anywhere. I just replaced my MFD & cassette player and I was trying to find a cd player or some kind of aux. Can't find anything.

 

DO YOU HAVE THE SKIMATIC PINOUTS FOR THE WIRING YOU CREATED?

 

Ebay...Look at this on eBay DICE Electronics I-Toyota-R iPod/iPhone integration for Toyota ITOYOTAR5V | eBay

 

Some of the links in posts above are broken, but here's a repost of what the wiring harness should look like; (the links in above posts may still link to photobucket, but the thumbnails are not working)

 

Could you explain what you did to the Gen 1 there? I have always wanted to have an in-car head unit in the Prius, but I always thought the radio was integral with the MPG meter so kind of gave up on it. Are you saying you took out the CD player next to the ash tray and replaced it with an ordinary aftermarket single DIN head unit? And it is powered fully by the harness you made and connected there AND sends amplified audio signal to the car's OEM speakers?

Oh, I see, the factory radio stops working if you do that. Nevermind.

 

Yes primuspaul, with the harness adaptor you install any single DIN height radio in the CD pocket of the Gen1 Prius. The factory speakers will all work with the new radio, but the factory radio becomes dead and just 'sits there' in the dash. The audio controls that used to be on the touchscreen won't work anymore but you just simply use the controls on the new radio. The factory clock will still work and so will the info button and touchscreen for MPGs stats etc.

 

Why does the radio become dead? Is it because the CD player is gone or because the aftermarket head unit is connected in such a way that it makes it "dead?" If the latter, then is it possible to add an inline switch on one of the harness lines (that's the harness for the aftermarket head unit) to toggle which one I want to use? That way, I can toggle it when I want to listen to music or when I want to use the Prius onboard radio to listen to the news/traffic.

Another question: what about power? I read aftermarket head units, given that they are amplifiers, can sometimes pull as much as 15A. That's a pretty tall order and I'm wondering how you handle that. Are the wires powering the harness that goes into the CD player (and later the aftermarket head unit) sufficient? Also, did you have to do anything special to deal with ground looping or does a decent head unit handle that on its own?

 

Mainly the speaker wires are no longer connected to the factory radio. Why would you want to use the factory radio? Just install an aftermarket receiver with integrated radio and use that one to listen to traffic and local stations, otherwise you'll have to figure out a way to switch all 15 or so wires each time you want to use the factory radio again.

I've never had an issue with an aftermarket radio blowing fuses or ground looping. They've all sounded fine.

I think you are over thinking this, it's not rocket science. Lot's of people change out the factory radio in their cars, it just looks a bit funny in a G1 Prius have two installed in the dash but the factory one inoperative.

 

I have this unit:

Pioneer DEH-2400UB

that I bought years ago and installed in my prior car. Before selling that car, I took it out and put in the factory one.

OK, after rereading the thread, I think I see what you did. You must have accessed an OEM "head unit" higher up in the central dash panel and modified the plugs, around where the MPG LCD screen is. So you only removed the CD player to physically make space for the aftermarket head unit, not to tap into the wiring. That's more work than I thought it would be. To make things easier, I'll just use my existing speakers I added to the back of the car and just wire two of the channels from the head unit to that.

For the ground, I found a green bolt right near where the CD player is installed and put a line there. I am reading 0 omhs when testing between the other side of that line (wire I put in) and a piece of metal I found on the bottom of the car, so it looks good.

For 12V I'll just tap into the cig lighter 15A fuse using a fuse tap. My entire load's maximum possible rating is just under 15A (in practice it will be much lower, this is just the power supply/accessory fuse max rating).

My only question is this: the head unit has a 12V accessory wire and 12V constant (battery) wire. I can hook the accessory into the cig lighter like I said before, but what about the constant? I think power locks are always on (I can always open or close the doors with the button, even if out of acc/ON mode), so is it OK to tap that line into:

30. DOOR 30 A: Power door lock system

?

 

Well I tried to do this today. I linked the red wire (ACC check) to the 15A cig lighter tap, the yellow (12V main power) to the 30A door locks, since I correctly assumed door locks always have battery power, and used the green screw near the CD player for black (GND). The radio worked and seemed to retain settings, along with turning on and off whenever key was turned. The only problem I had was the speakers made no sound at all. After messing around with the settings for an hour, I finally read that the rear RCA were preamp. Then I tested two of the harness wires with enough exposed copper by holding them against the RCA metal and I got the music loud and clear from the speakers, so the system works, I just need to rig it up (was using alligator clips during testing).

The fuses I use are for cig lighter and automatic door locks, so even if they both blow, it's not a critical system.

 

I recently acquired a 2003 Prius that's a creampuff. Bad traction battery and struts. Runs like a new car now.

Factory radio (Fujitsu Ten) left much to be desired. Replaced mini-speakers with Infinity REF-6532EX 6.5" Coaxials. Getting broken cones out helped a lot. But I missed my HD Radio that I had in my antique Toyota Xtra-cab. I considered moving my Alpine from the truck to the Prius and putting cheaper radio in truck. Just seemed like too much work, and I would miss HD when driving truck. Alpine 1DIN would cost $300 which was totally out of my budget. Found Kenwood Excelon KDC-X702 open-box for half the cost of Alpine.

Installation was using cable described by 3prongpaul. Removed factory 1CD player and installed Kenwood in its place. It worked exactly as Paul described. All hybrid displays on MFD now work as before. Removed door from CD compartment since shutting door was bumping volume control. Saved if needed later. Thanks to Crutchfield's Black Friday sale, I was able to install all of this for just a tad over half of retail price.

I know what a lot of folks are saying...why spend this on a 16 year old car? The four-banger purrs like a kitten. No oil consumption, no leaks, etc. I knew the 2 previous owners (granddaughter was one). Carfax was clean. I think it will be a great used car![/QUOTE]

 

Because a couple of hundred bucks, one time, and a few hours messing with it on the weekend, allows you to better enjoy driving the car you already own. The leading alternative is signing up for $300 to $500 a month for the next 4 to 6 years, plus higher insurance, possibly higher taxes, and so on.

My current goal is to drive mine to the moon - 240,000 miles, the average distance between the Moon and Earth. I have about 13,000 miles to go.

 

1) Why can't you just plug that 10 pin connector on the back of the dash panel in your picture back into the radio for the mfd, clock and dash panel illumination to work?

2) If that is not an option, will your retrofit 3 wire pigtail also provide dash panel illumination at night when the lights are on in addition to powering the clock and info on the mfd?

Because if the dash panel lights don't illuminate at night that kinda sucks. Great to get the functionally of an aftermarket 1din, but bad if you have to sacrifice some current functionality. I want to be able to still have my mfd read out my energy and consumption properly, my clock to still work and my dash panel lights to illuminate at night.

Thanks for this write up.