Snapped off threaded stud that holds lug nut

I always use recommended torque (which is mostly dry, unless specified otherwise) - Great minds!

 

So, answer me this.

When my wheel was frozen to the "hub?" I was told by several people to smack it all several times with a sledge to loosen it. I tried that, but it did not work. I loosened the nuts and drove a few hundred feet and that did work.

But, if earnestly smacking the entire area with sledge is O.K. to remove the frozen wheel, why is tapping on the end of a broken off stud bad?

Serious question...

 

Lots of scientists here kris.

You can whack the crap out of a hub you won't hurt it. There really strong. You may hurt yourself thpugh.
I have never used a torque wrench on a wheel lug. Only time I use a torque wrench is putting on a castle nut after a wheel bearing replacement.. That and working on a differential that have thrust tolerances.
Last one I did was on my Crown Vic. Took a 32 mm socket and torqued to 150 ft pounds. Yes....150.
Had to use a 5 foot long piece of freakin pipe to do that.
Never ever seen a tire store use a torque wrench. They just slam them on with an impact.
Then when I get home I will loosen them with my impact and tighten them back up with a 1/2 drive ratchet I keep in the trunk so I can get the tire off on the side of the road. I know I heard multiple people on here say there tire store uses a torque wrench.
Lubricated wheel lugs are the way to go. If there on nice and tight there on nice and tight. They don't come loose.

 

I think that use of a sledgehammer is questionable if you are doing something other than demolishing a wall in your house in preparation for remodeling, breaking rocks or driving a grounding rod into the ground. For automotive purposes, I might use a small sledgehammer for the purpose of driving out a suspension part that I intended to discard.

I would not subject a wheel hub to force applied by a sledgehammer, why risk damaging the wheel bearing. "tapping" may mean different things to different people, just as the concept of how tight to make a fastener can be subjective. That is why torque specs were established for tightening fasteners.

I posted a snapshot from the Toyota repair manual which shows how they suggest removing and installing a wheel stud. If you decide to use other means, that is your business.

 

It's not necessary to buy into the premise of that 'if', just because several people told you to do it.

If the effect of whacking the crap out of a hub were that it flies instantly across your garage floor in jagged fragments, then everybody trying it would immediately say "oops" and there would be no widespread belief it was ok to do.

Brinelling is a real thing that happens to bearings, but when the effect is just that your hub goes noisy and needs replaced some few hundreds or thousands of miles later, when you might otherwise not have heard from it for tens of thousands, it's easy for the causal connection to go under the radar.

-Chap

 

Smacking the side of the tire to get it unstuck from the hub can cause damage but damaging the sidewall of the tire will happen easier than damage to the bearing.

When hitting the side of the tire, bearing is protected by softness of tire (and hopefully something in between the tire and hammer) and weight of the wheel and brake disc/drum.

 

I saw a video about the sledge hammer method, where the guy was directly hitting the tire sidewall, but that didn't seem to good to me; I always put some timber there: a pair of 2x4's, though a 4x4 would be ideal.

 

Well....
The only thing I know how to do is to keep on keeping on, like a bird that flew.

Seems like I have heard that before, maybe from Bob Zimmerman?
kris

 

@ Stevewoods

You should be able to get the correct tool for at no cost from the loaner tool pool at your local parts store: Advance, O'Reilly, Pep Boys, etc. (not sure about NAPA)

The way it works is you pay the purchase price for the tool, then they give you a full refund when you return it.

 

I imagine most mechanics would knock them out with an air hammer rather than the prescribed method with washer and nut, especially if the studs are damaged and they were doing to hub as well. The hammer is cheap if you already have air, otherwise you have to go down that tool-buying hole.

 

Sure, if you're going to replace the hub anyway, no reason not to bang on the old one all you want.

... but in that case, I'm not sure why you'd bother with taking the broken stud out at all ....

-Chap

 

That was how Eric the Car Guy went, air hammer.

 

Something like this.

 

I don’t think that kind of ball joint press can fit between the hub and knuckle.

But can you really just borrow that kind of tool from the store and then return it after the use? Why would any store do that?

 

Maybe with a small extra charge?

 

Good point about the tool fitting -- would have to measure first.

But yes, most auto parts chains in the US have a loaner tool program. The details of Advance Auto's policies are here.

They do it because they are in the business of selling parts. If a necessary special tool is prohibitively expensive, customers won't buy the parts. The tools never wear out, so it's a one-time expense for the store -- and figure their expense is likely much less than half of the purchase price. If by some chance a tool doesn't come back, they've made a profitable sale. It's truly a win-win-win situation.

 

They become the go-to store.

 

Zero cost. When you return the tool (within 90 days) you get a full refund of the purchase price and sales tax.

 

I did this when I was rotating my tires. Tightened bolt too tight. Drove for a week with Four bolts. Bought replacement bolt at O'Reily Auto Parts. I think it was two dollars. Posted the entire fix awhile ago. It was pretty easy for me. Good luck with your outcome. Attached is some photos.