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Dead 2007 Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Larryy, Oct 8, 2017.

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  1. Larryy

    Larryy Active Member

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    So why did the system refuse to boot when I assisted the 6.5v block and maintained it at 8.5v during boot? I am replacing the block anyway but I am not confident that this is the issue
     
    #21 Larryy, Oct 8, 2017
  2. Larryy

    Larryy Active Member

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    I have just been told that the elm 327 bluetooth adapter and the Torque app for android will work well. But, I do have a laptop with Linux fedora. Can Techstream be made to work on it?
     
    #22 Larryy, Oct 8, 2017
  3. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Windows only. Sorry. Actually, I'm using it in Widows XP running in Virtual Box on a Linux Mint laptop. But there's no getting around Windows. I don't think it runs under WINE.
     
    #23 jerrymildred, Oct 8, 2017
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    when you say the car doesn't boot, do you mean nothing happens when you step on the brake and push the go button?
     
    #24 bisco, Oct 8, 2017
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  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Without me actually being there and putting my hands and test equipment on it, I can't give you all the answers. But what I can tell you, and will tell you, is that a module reading 6.5 volts is jacked, and will code the battery every time. Even the 7.5 module is potentially suspect, if all the others were 7.8ish. Voltages do not tell the full story, except for when they read 6.x or less. Even then, it only tells its own story, not the story for the other 27. That module just screamed its entire story in your ear and said "replace me, don't try to fix me, replace me".
     
    #25 TMR-JWAP, Oct 8, 2017
  6. Larryy

    Larryy Active Member

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    Looks like I will need to make it a dual boot. I can do that.
     
    #26 Larryy, Oct 8, 2017
  7. Larryy

    Larryy Active Member

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    No. The dash lights up with the master warning, skid, VSC, ABS, MIL, brake and a red car symbol on the upper left corner of the MFD. The speedometer display lights up but the Hybrid drive won't do R,D or B, just N. Door locks work. Even though my scan tool got a replace Hybrid drive battery code at first, there are no codes now. It won't close the main contactors but they do close when I put 12v to them manually.
     
    #27 Larryy, Oct 8, 2017
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  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Did you verify the disconnect was installed per post #4 of this thread. Your symptoms seem identical to what happens if the last step is not performed. Have you disconnected ANY other connectors at the battery? maybe the battery charger smoked the fuse located in the disconnect. Wouldn't surprise me, since the HV system is isolated from everything else, but may not have been when the charger was connected.
     
    #28 TMR-JWAP, Oct 8, 2017
  9. Larryy

    Larryy Active Member

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    Now that's what I was looking for. If I understand it correctly, each block has 6 cells @ 1.2v which equals 7.2v but we all know that when a battery is new it very often show voltage a little higher than it is rated at. But when we use a battery for just a short while its average full charge voltage will decline. If the Prius reacts with shutdown at 6v that doesn't provide much redundancy, but if that is what it is then we must live with it. I have a replacement block on the way so we will see.
     
    #29 Larryy, Oct 8, 2017
  10. Larryy

    Larryy Active Member

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    "Did you verify the disconnect was installed per post #4 of this thread. Your symptoms seem identical to what happens if the last step is not performed. Have you disconnected ANY other connectors at the battery? maybe the battery charger smoked the fuse located in the disconnect. Wouldn't surprise me, since the HV system is isolated from everything else, but may not have been when the charger was connected."

    The disconnect is in place, locked and 214v is present at the contactors.
     
    #30 Larryy, Oct 8, 2017
  11. Larryy

    Larryy Active Member

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    Additionally, the 6v charger was only attached to the one block. This only raised the total HV pack voltage to 215.5v and with no closure of the contactors there is no current flow through the fuse and even if there were a circuit, a 6amp battery charger is not likely to provide enough additional amperage to blow a 125a fuse.
     
    #31 Larryy, Oct 9, 2017
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    once you get your code reader, you'll have a better handle on it.
     
    #32 bisco, Oct 9, 2017
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  13. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    you might have a module leaking causing a HV short to the case.. did you see any "rust" on the bottom of the case when you took apart the battery? the voltage will look OK but they leak at the positive screw on the bottom of the case..
     
    #33 Beachbummm, Oct 10, 2017
  14. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    .
     
    #34 edthefox5, Oct 10, 2017
  15. Larryy

    Larryy Active Member

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    Thanks, I do remember reading that now that you mention it. The lid is off but I haven't disassembled it yet. I'll be looking for that when I do.
     
    #35 Larryy, Oct 10, 2017
  16. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Larryy,
    Dropped the module in the mail for you yesterday.
    You should be receiving it shortly.
     
    #36 ericbecky, Oct 11, 2017
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  17. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    [QUOTE="The disconnect is in place, locked and 214v is present at the contactors.[/QUOTE]

    Larry, one more thing I want to point out. When you have the disconnect in your hand, the first step to install it is to insert it into the female receptacle portion. Then, lifting the handle pulls the disconnect completely into the receptacle. AT THIS POINT, the circuit is complete and full voltage is available at the battery side of the contacts. A meter will now read 210vdc + if you place one lead on each terminal. But, the car WILL NOT go to ready mode until the last step is complete. The last step is to push the disconnect handle firmly straight down until it clicks. This is the step that satisfies the safety interlock contacts and will now allow the car to go "ready", (as long as there are no other problems) . There are three wires that plug into the battery controls from the cars wire harness. The smallest of the three plugs goes to a female receptacle just to the right of the interlock switch. Then, this plug has a wire that goes behind the safety interlock and plugs into a female receptacle on the disconnect. If any of these plugs are not completely seated, it will act as if the last step wasn't completed when inserting the disconnect.
     
    #37 TMR-JWAP, Oct 12, 2017
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  18. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    #38 JC91006, Oct 12, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2017
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  19. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Ummm... Makes me nervous to download an unknown file.
    What is this file of?
    Am I just being paranoid?
     
    #39 ericbecky, Oct 13, 2017
  20. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    It's a 5 second video on locking the orange safety interlock. I didn't upload to YouTube
     
    #40 JC91006, Oct 13, 2017
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