Door open always draws 500ma

You have anything aftermarket installed? Anything left connected overnight? Have a dash cam?

You get the idea.

 

What about anything left connected to the car via the auxiliary outlet: GPS, scan gauge, etc?

Killing 3 batteries in 3 years points to some parasitic draw.

While the little ones may be the result of one of those batteries, I wouldn’t think this would happen to all 3 of the batteries.

But if the wife is distracted that much, anything is possible .

Good luck.

 

you may have to bypass the door switches and be done with it.

 

Is there any downside to that, basically (but a little more eloquently than Red Green) duct taping all the door switches, so the car always has doors shut, even when they're open? I can think of one: the brake system won't pressurize properly.

Still, I would just focus on NOT leaving doors ajar, do whatever it takes. And turn off as many of those damn courtesy lights as you can.

 

does the brake system pressurize other than from the drivers door?

 

I think no.

 

and the dome light is already pulled.

 

I cobbled a C-clamp shaped piece of wood, that I can push over the door frame at the switch, holding it closed. Handy if you've got to leave just one door open while you're doing something. Hardly ever use it though.

I should maybe wrap it in some duct tape

 

Most door switches are normally closed to the chassis but opening the drivers door starts some system preparation for driving, I believe. I am not sure I would disconnect the drivers door switch.

 

My kids have run the 12 volt battery flat many times because of the interior lights, and I have had had to replace it about every 3 years. Running the battery flat, even once, seems to do a lot of damage to the batteries reserve power. The batteries still work fine in summer but have almost no reserve power when it is cold in winter.

I have changed all the interior and door lights to LED bulbs. If I remember right, the original bulbs drew about 200 milliamps each. The LED ones draw about 20. I have not had a dead battery since I did this and the kids have left the lights on.

 

Once more and then done.

You continue to overlook the obvious, and easiest and cheapest solution to this problem:
Training......the adults not the children.
LOCK THE CAR. If not immediately upon exit, then a few minutes later or right after supper.......or right before bed EVERY DAY.
If locking with the FOB produces a beep (might have to push the button twice) then all is well. If not, then check the doors.

I have a routine every night before bed: go around the house and double check ALL the doors to be sure they are locked and the garage door is closed. I occasionally find one that is not locked and even once in a great while one that is a bit ajar.

 

Yeah, resist the siren call of car mods, just mod your behaviors.

 

duck tape over the door buttons is much easier.

 

Brake system continually pressurizes when needed when engine off. Just sit in the car with the door closed and the engine off and pump the brakes. It will turn on the vacuum motor.

The light thats in the bottom of the door so drivers can see the door is open from behind is a hungry little bulb. You cant see that light if the door is ajar but its on. Its in the bottom left of the door and no switch to turn it off. Thats the door light the dealer always leaves on while servicing the car as the door is left ajar so when you pick your car up the battery is real low the car spends alot of energy to charge it and your mileage tanks for a while.

If you want to go on a current consumption expedition get the electrical manual off eBay there pretty cheap and start pulling fuses one by one. But opening the door turns on alot of systems like the fob antennas looking for the fob and safety systems that will nag you if you put the car in gear etc so the car is awake then. Turn off the SKS switch under the steering wheel see if that lessens current draw with door open and fob away.