Cleaned intake manifold and EGR pipe and it truly feels smoother!

Hey @Mendel Leisk , were you able to remove and clean your EGR and EGR Cooler?

My Prius will soon have 120K miles and will be DIY changing the spark plugs. I am debating whether I should consider cleaning the EGR pipe, EGR and EGR cooler while the wiper cowl is off. Also consider changing the PCV valve too. The car is driven mostly on the highway. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

It’s an opportune time to do so.

Good luck with the work.

 

Yeah I did. @NutzAboutBolts videos were invaluable. Also a tip from @mjoo to do OxyClean solution soaks on the cooler: cleaned it to like new condition.

Something I tried that worked well: was to drain a couple of litres of engine coolant at the radiator drain, then the cooler will be pretty much dry when you disconnect its coolant hoses. Just be careful not to tip it, a bit of coolant hangs up in the back corner. Catch it all in a clean container, then return to the reservoir when done.

 

Oxyclean worked well. At 120k miles your cooler could easily take a dozen hour-long soaks to grab all the carbon. A clean spare could expedite the repair. Something to consider.

Pixel XL ?

 

Thank you all for the info! Guess I will start collecting the special tools needed to do the job. I have already viewed the invaluable @NutzAboutBolts videos on how to service the EGR components.

Any advice on the special tools needed to do the job? If I recall correctly, will need some ratchet wrenches and what else?


My car is at 114K so there is still some time. Thanks.

 

E8 torx socket is a good buy.

Harbor Freight has a nice set at a good price .

 

@Bay Stater are you in the bay area too or in so cal.

 

And 12mm ratcheting box wrench. Not indispensable, but very helpful.

E6 Torx socket is good for the studs on the throttle body. Best to just get a set of the sockets. Both the E8 and E6 are 1/4" drive, if I recall correctly, so 1/4" ratchet wrench is needed and 3/8" to 1/4" adapter would be good, to adapt for torque wrench or whatever.

 

I don't remember using torx sockets when i did my job

 

Don't you pretty much have to, get the cooler off? Studs pass through it in a couple of directions, I think. You can leave the bottom/middle stud in place, just pull the cooler off of it. The rear studs, at connection to the exhaust pipe, those have to come off or it's locked in place still.

And there's another stud at the front end (at the valve) that has to come off as well. @NutzAboutBolts notes in video it is tough to back out, and I noticed the same thing. Close tolerances with all the parts getting near their limits? I'm not sure. Tough re-installing too.

 

They're reverse torx sockets - used for the studs

Pixel XL ?

 

I am not in the bay area or CA for that matter. I live in the Bay State or better known as Massachusetts. So I will have to solder this project alone. Oh wait, I could get @bisco to help me.

 

It's not that hard. It's a lot easier if you don't need the car on a daily basis, and have an enclosed garage. Then you can take your sweet time.

 

In cleaning the intake manifold and EGR components, has anyone tried using Gumout carburetor cleaner in-lieu of brake cleaner?

 

I personally used a can of parts cleaner spray from autozone. Don't forget to clean out the tiny holes above the intake "holes" I used a nail with a rag over it and just poked the holes till they were clean. A ton of gunk came out of those tiny holes. Get a new rubber intake manifold from the dealer. cost $12 you can't go wrong. change out the pcv valve while you're in there too. much easier to replace with the intake removed. I used a 22 size wrench to remove/replace the valve.

 

What's the diff? I think Carb cleaner is a bit more aggresive, might dissolve rubber, which should be an issue. Not sure about using it on the intake manifold plastic though. Carb cleaner also has a little lubricating oil?? Brake cleaner is safe for brakes, doesn't leave oil, easier on plastics?

I ended up using Oxy on the intake manifold as well, following up after using brake cleaner. It did float out a fair bit of gunk from the EGR passages, but it seemed never ending; I finally just called it a day.

The Oxy shines for use on the EGR cooler, 100% stainless steel. I'd say don't use it on the EGR valve, which as a fair bit of aluminum if I'm not mistaken. I suspect it would dull the finish, and is not really necessary.

One thing I did not manage is to disassemble the EGR valve. It has some heavy-duty (cross-head) screws holding the plastic casing on. I tentatively tried a hammer and impact screw driver, but it looked like I might strip the screw heads. I was able to clean it fairly thoroughly with CRC brake cleaner (aka parts cleaner).

I didn't replace any gaskets, and they all seem fine for reuse. OTOH, the car only has 72K km's.

The PCV valve I pulled and shot some brake cleaner (or carb cleaner?) through it, reinstalled. Can't recall for sure which.

It's also a very opportune time to install Oil Catch Can, btw. OTOH, once you've pulled the intake manifold and throttle body once, you realize it's not that big a deal, could redo later when you get into OCC. OTOH, when the intake manifold is freshly cleaned is a good time to install OCC...

(Shades of Fiddler on the Roof)

 

I bought a spare and it has come in handy.

Replaced ours at around 120 k miles, then gave the cleaned spare to another member here and got his dirty cooler.

Haven’t cleaned it yet, but will probably do so after the holidays. Won’t need it for our needs until Christmas of 2018, so there is time .

Never know when the next person might need the spare though .

 

can i just send you a check?

 

An assortment of needle nose pliers shown below. The two with ends made for hoses was a huge time saver. They help to loosen and once the plier is positioned at the end of the hose, sliding it off takes little effort.


A long plastic brush to fully get inside the passage from the EGR cooler tube to each cylinder. As shown, around 14" to 15" if possible. The one I cleaned was really clogged with line to the cylinder on the passenger side almost totally plugged and the line to the cylinder on driver side taking most of the output from the basically clogged EGR cooler.



Some of the crude that needs cleaned up.

 

I wonder if there's any way to get through to Toyota about this? I guess they know, and their lawyers say keep mum?