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Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by danlatu, May 8, 2017.

  1. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    Hey, no problem leeb18c or is it b18c type R? I was really concerned at first because manual said remove engine, transmission and subframe???? I did not see any pics of anyone removing it from the top and just wanted to clarify it can be done. I like options, especially the easy ones. I am actually happier with the way the oil catch can worked out. Both of my prius' are running smooth with no more knock @ start up. I also noticed new camero's have occ's from the factory bolted on the passenger head.

    Screen Shot 2017-11-12 at 5.55.05 PM.png
     
    #321 danlatu, Nov 12, 2017
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2017
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  2. leeb18c

    leeb18c Active Member

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    Dan. I wish but not Type-R. I used to own a GSR for commuting and just a big fan of B series engines back then. Those engines were indestructible and pull up to 8k redline like no others. I drove it hard to 300k miles without any engine issues but I didn't dare modify the engine since it's my commuter car. I went through about 5 clutches though. Finally, it started burning oil and sold it to buy Prius. :(

    Are you talking about removing the head from the top? Yes, there is plenty of room. Not as much Camry 4cyl but still plenty of room.
     
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  3. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    Removing the prius motor from the top. I wish my Del sol was stiff/handling like my dc2 teggy. Window seals leaking on the del sol like crazy and I could not find replacements so I sold it. It rains a lot here in maryland. :cry:
     
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  4. Stentorian Voice Training

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    Did you buy the head gasket and then paint it with the copper spray? Or is there a copper coated head gasket available? A
     
  5. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    I have seen guys who boost blow there head gaskets and repair a damaged gasket with copper spray. If it was a honda I would probably just repair it with copper spray but there is to much labor involved on the prius engine if you do not have a good seal. I use it for extra insurance on new head gaskets. It is sold separately and not required. Head and block has to be completely flat and cleaned. If you are not sure, take it to a machine shop.
     
  6. Stentorian Voice Training

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    K, so it's spray on (y) History: I found a used gen 3 with a blown rod (literally blew out both side of block) and just dropped in a "low mileage" :LOL: jdm. Low mileage my a$$. I didn't feel like rebuilding, so I took a chance and drove it. It lasted for about 2000 mi. before head gasket blew. Engine provider is going to ship another one for free, for exchange, but I am going to rebuild it this time. I'll be building a story line (or whatever you call it) on this site with photos and stuff... should be pretty cool, and inline with what you did as well. I contacted ARP for studs and they said they could retro fit something with the right measurement I provide. After driving this thing for a while- I'm impressed, and I'm betting this Gen 3 Prius drivetrain could power a small rv - Toyota SunRaider, etc. If I get a wild hair, I'll Mahle-coat everything, balance everything, maybe a girdle :LOL: All up in the air now :whistle: p.s. I also was inspired by your catch can, so I built one as well (y)
     

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  7. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    Those JDM motors are hit or miss. I still think that they are low mileage. They just don't change the oil, ever. ARP are the way to go, especially when putting down the power. Don't forget to coat those rod and main bearings. Low friction.
    Screen Shot 2017-11-30 at 9.29.43 PM.png
     
  8. Stentorian Voice Training

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    hey danlatu, is there a reason why didn't Stainless SO-ring the heads
    hey Danlatu, Do you have the part number for your new piston rings ... you mentioned something about using Honda rings???
     
  9. milkman44

    milkman44 Active Member

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  10. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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  11. milkman44

    milkman44 Active Member

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    Yes, the Prius is fixed, got a really good paint match this time. The wife has started driving again and she claims the Prius. Still have the Lexus, don't need it, but hate to get rid of it. I need to change the transaxle fluid in the C-Max, in case it is still the original fluid in it.
     
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  12. Stentorian Voice Training

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  13. Stentorian Voice Training

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    thx milkman44, But the oil control ring still has the oil expander spring that I'm trying to avoid. The OEM spring is flimsy and worthless in my opinion. I'm looking for a conventional oil control ring. I just talked to Mahle and they said their replacement has the same expander spring unfortunately.
     
  14. milkman44

    milkman44 Active Member

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    Take a look at post #37 and you can see the difference in the oil rings, also post #80 and #86. The original and the aftermarket rings that was used is quite different. They both have the expander spring, but the after market ones are a lot more open. Don't know about the Mahle rings, the ITM are the ones used.
     
    #334 milkman44, Dec 8, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2017
  15. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    All the springs do is expand the oil control rings along with providing oil flow.
    I use what is available.
     
  16. Stentorian Voice Training

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    k milkman44 thx! I'll call Aladdin Auto Parts in Torrance,Ca and see if they can pull an ITM off the shelf and have a look before I order. danlatu, your answers are vague AF but okay thx :LOL:
     
  17. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    I do not rebuild engines for a living all day long and do not have answers pertaining to different materials from different manufacturers. I can share the experience from what I use and the methods I know of. I am here to help along with anyone else here willing to share there opinion's regarding Priuschat.

    Because MPG. I will have saved enough money driving the prius vs my truck to have paid for by next summer.:D:D
     
  18. Jesus82

    Jesus82 Junior Member

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    Hi danlatu,
    Excellent job and great information on recording all of this, I'm in the same situation, I just buy a 2010 prius two, about 2 month ago it has $200k on it, and I put in 8,000 Miles already, prius was driving excellent no issues at all until 2 weeks ago had to add about 12oz antifreeze it was low and then starting to do the knocking on cold start described on this forums, 4 days after I got the check engine light,
    I Reed the codes and show misfiring on all 4 cylinders, (car still drives fine just the hard knocking and small shaking at start go) I decided to change sparkplugs, I started the job yesterday only to realize that antifreeze was low again about half quarter, so I think of removing intake manifold and EGR valve and cleaned but when I remove the filter air box and get access to the throttle body is almost halfway full of milkshake looking mix of antifreeze with oil looks like, however no oil mix on antifreeze or antifreeze in the oil on the engine, so most likely it will need head gasket job? But is weird that other than codes and the knocking the car still drives fine what's your thoughts on this situation?
    Any help is appreciated Thanks to all of you for your input on making this forum great

     
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  19. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    When your engine is warm, the head and block will expand and may seal the coolant leak. I bet when the engine is cold, the coolant leaks into the cylinder and on start up, you hear a knock. It is weird that you are finding coolant in the manifold but on an atkinson cycle engine, it could be pushed out on the compression stroke due to intake valve being partially open. The oil is probably coming from the pcv system, check the pcv and hose on tear down. Clean the entire egr system and intake manifold. This engine was one of the most time consuming engines I have worked on due to toyota breaking up the block into so many sections and used rtv to hold it together. Even the timing chain cover is oil and coolant pressurized. Antifreeze does circulate through the egr cooler and throttle body (and catalytic convertor). So before you take the entire engine apart, check those areas too.
     
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  20. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    Doing a leak test of the coolant piping on the EGR cooler could reveal something. I have no idea how long those coolers last.

    Pixel XL ?
     
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