Need Help Identifying What Happened

Nope. That's definitely the 12 volt battery positive terminal cover.

You seem to be confused regarding the location of the 12V battery. Both of the batteries are in the back. The jump terminal is in the front, but it's wired to the 12V battery in the back. As I said in my previous post, that red cover just clips over the positive 12V terminal.

Also, just looking at my main fuse box cover now, the clips on yours may not be damaged. Mine looks pretty much like yours in the photo. Have you tried removing it and re-clipping it into place?

 

NO. I just checked.
In post 4 a knowledgeable user said it belongs on the 12 v battery. You replied in post 7 & mentioned the hybrid battery. In post 14 the same user reiterated it belongs on the 12 v battery.

If you try & say they accessed the HV battery, I fear that all your complaints will be dismissed.

 

You misunderstood what the other member wrote. The red cover you pictured is the positive terminal cover from the 12V battery, as has already been said. 100% guaranteed.

They either couldn't figure out how to jump it under the hood (which is the easy way) and did some research to discover that the battery is in the rear, or it was the other way around. You haven't described any evidence that they messed with the HV battery and they would have had to take a whole lot more of your car apart for no real reason to get to the terminals. That involves taking off the left side trim panels, the part of the deck right behind the rear seats, and the left rear seat back, plus some other smaller bits just to get to the cover over the terminals. The orange "plug" mentioned before is not red, looks nothing like your picture, and is just a safety disconnect like the one at your air conditioner outside your house and serves the same purpose.

Since you have no alarm lights on your dash, consider yourself lucky that they didn't jump it wrong and total your car by burning out the inverter. Do not let them touch it again.

 

i think you are on the right track now. if it were me, i would get whatever monetary concession i could out of them, and fix everything myself. nothing too difficult there.

 

That’s the way to go. Get a new 12 I think that’s fair.

Btw, I leave that red 12 volt positive post cover off. It lets you get quick access to that positive post assy because there are 2 plugs that plug into that assy. One is a thick black wire with white connector that’s the main B+ lead that goes directly to the front positive jump point under the hood in that black plastic fuse box. The other is a small black lead that goes to the inverter under the hood. Both those cables are easily unclicked by releasing there white click tab. That can reboot the car or isolate the car from the 12 volt battery unlike unbolting the g4ound lead at the 12 volt battery which usually causes alot of sparking.
Toyota gave you those conn3ctions for a spark free removal of the 12 volt battery. Leave that cover off because you will have to remove it to replace the battery soon anyway.

 

My heart bleeds for you! …but you nailed it in your first line - indeed you certainly do "get what you pay for" , and just another reason why I tend to use my local dealer, particularly when it comes to specialist "Prius" type things. Although when it comes to tyres, I've found Town Fair Tires, or TireRack.com to be not only pretty knowledgeable but fair, particularly if you're a repeat customer! I would ask to see the boss-fellah, and ask hime to explain to you exactly what was done to your car, and how they plan to remedy the situation. I think the Local-Newspaper/AG/local-TV-station suggestions are also great! Good luck, I hope you are able to get it sorted!

 

A couple things here....

There is ZERO need to keep the brakes applied during an alignment, UNLESS the wheel bearings are worn excessively (or they do not even bother to check), either way it is unworkmanlike to do so.

The Prius has a SMALL battery, less than 1/2 the CCA of most and about 1/4 the reserve capacity (time it will take a minor load before going dead).

A single deep-discharge of a 12v battery can kill it dead, such that you will never get more than 50% of it's new rating again. Ask my wife just how easy this is to do

What they actually DO to help you will be the test and a good portion of the cost on a new 12v would be a start. Actually, I would accept 80% of the cost of a new 12v with installation and just walk away. The fuse covers are like $1 from the recycling yard.

 

I believe is is the amp-hours tested, not just voltages. I believe @Mendel Leisk has a chart of voltages for an AGM battery.