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Combo meter good, am2 fuse good, 12v good. What’s next?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by thomus, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    Okay well, I’ve got an 06 with 350,xxx on the clock. It died while driving. It showed no triangle. The headlights work and the only dash board light that comes on is the red security light. The other light that normally comes on with the combo meter does not come on. Also there is no problem with the rear hatch. The am2 fuse is good (as are the rest of the fuses.) I can’t pull codes from it as it sits. So basically I’m wondering where do I go from here. Does the inverter pump always blow a fuse? If not does it have a specific resistance range I can test for? Or somewhere that I can test to see if power is getting to it? I forgot to mention my battery tested fine but I made sure by jumping it, I also put it onto a charger for a good while so I’m comfortable saying the 12v is good. I feel like I have followed the research that I’ve done pretty well as far as I can go. I have tried everything with the key in the slot and out. There are no lights at the ignition button or the park button. The power locks work with the fob. But the windows don’t roll down. Perhaps a bad ignition button? But that wouldn’t kill the car while driving right? I’m kind of at a loss. I don’t think I can get very far chasing power around the car when it’s of like it is.
    I mean checking grounds is where I’m at now but it seems random that a ground would cause those specific troubles. The key fob locks and unlocks everything. The brake chingasaroo makes the noise it always is. I mean I guess a ground from the traction battery mint cause the issue. Anyway I’m open for ideas. If you can think of a reason that fits all the criteria that I have mentioned I’d love to hear from you. Also if I have read into the combo meter and or the inverter pump feel free to let me know how. I’m a fairly good diy mechanic on normal cars but this is my first hybrid so I’ve got a bit of shit to learn. Thanks in advance. I really hope you guys have some idea of where to go or how I screwed up. Cheers thomus
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    350k is a lot of miles. maybe time to let go?
     
  3. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    Yeah she burns some oil and there are a good number of issues with the inside of the car. We are fixing to get done with our lease on our other car and we are going to be looking for something cheaper. So I might be able to then. To be honest I don’t like having a Prius for this exact reason, to work on it takes a damn degree. I mean I’m a fairly mechanical guy and everything but when it comes to something like this where I can’t check each component in a series I’m not sure what to do. So all that is to say I would like to and definitely will if the repair seems to pricey after I feel like I have a decent diagnosis. It might not be 100% but i would like to narrow it done. In other words I’d love to kick the thing to the curb haha
     
  4. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    Also thanks for the quick reply
     
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    There is nothing wrong with the Prius, it's because you have 350k miles on it. Most cars would have been retired by 200k miles.

    Anyways, you can check if you have any fuel going to the engine. That would be another reason for it to die while driving. Bad fuel pump, injectors, transaxle, inverter, etc
     
    #5 JC91006, Feb 13, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018
  6. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    Bad fuel pump or injectors would cause the dash lights to go out? As well as the transaxle? Those wouldn’t have been something I wouldn’t have looked into so I will go ahead and look into those along with the inverter.

    I didn’t mean that there is something inherently wrong with the Prius. It is a very well made car and it has done a great job at what it was made to do. I wasnt trying to say it was a crappy car by any means. What I meant was it is frustrating (for me)?to work on because it relies on technology that is more advanced than what I understand. Perhaps I should have chosen better wording.

    Thanks for the heads up on some leads that I can follow.
     
  7. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The dash lights going out is usually a bad combination meter, but your title says it's good. Also if the car inverter is not charging the 12v battery, then the car would die, but you also said the 12v is good.

    So when the car just dies while driving, it can only be a bad transaxle, bad ecu, bad fuel pump, bad inverter. Bad injectors would normally give you a bad misfire.....but these issues all should give you a warning light. Only one that doesn't really warn you with a triangle, is when you run out of gas
     
  9. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    When I say the combo meter and inverter pump are good that boils down to my understanding of the research I’ve been able to do. I could me Misinterpreting Or missing something there, such as the am2 fuse. My understanding is that it always blows if the pump is going out? Also the combo meter would show another light besides the little red security light and also cause an issue with the hatch from what I read. I assume that’s all correct but if not those would be the obvious things to dive into. I really appreciate the help because I am in unfamiliar waters. Which also says a great deal about how well the car is built that I’m this many miles I without having had to replace every part on the thing like I would have had to in almost any other car. I’ll be back tonight to see if I’m any further a long than I am now
     
  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    1. AM2 fuse will blow if the inverter pump shorted out, it will not blow if the inverter pump just fails to pump.
    2. The combo meter will not cause any issue with the hatch, it only illuminates the dash area that shows your SPEEDOMETER and surrounding areas.

    So looking back, you may have a failed combination meter if all your dash lights are not on. That probably does not mean the car died, but it just doesn't show any lights on your dash, making it seem like the car has died?
     
  11. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    And it looks like I have found the issue. If I’m correct the inverter pump somehow ties into the ac system. This fits with the ac feeling pretty warm. I just chalked that up to the mileage of the car. Does that sound about right?
     
  12. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    No but if it's just the pump that's bad, the car should recover once it cools down and the car should be able to start/run again till the inverter overheats again (you really don't want to continue this pattern either).
     
  13. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    One of the symptoms with a failed inverter pump, is the AC will just blow air and won't get cold. But once that car cools, the AC will work again until it gets HOT again.

    This does not explain why your car died while driving, it doesn't do that with a failed inverter pump. It would light up a big red triangle but your car won't die right away
     
  14. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    Okay that makes sense. I forgot to mention the mdf is not turning on either. I forgot to say that but now I realize that might be helpful. Perhaps a relay in the fuse box? I could go grab one and replace a few with good known units, or just check with the multi meter. I’m kind of thinking out loud here
     
  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You would have to do some diagnosis on your car, step by step. techinfo.toyota.com will give you all the necessary info to diagnose the problem. It's $15 for 2 days.

    My opinion is that it may be too much to get this car running properly again, especially with the high mileage. As you tinker with the car and it sits for a couple weeks, the HV battery will go out of balance and you'll have a whole new can of worms to fix. Maybe it's just time to retired the old beast
     
  16. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    Unfortunately it seems like that is the reasonable conclusion, just let it go as a parts car. Atleast the body and upholstery is pretty damn nice if nothing else lol. I appreciate the help. It helps to have someone in the know to bounce ideas off of and give unbiased advice. This forum has helped with a lot of issues with the car previously through research so cheers to everyone here!
     
  17. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    You may just have two issues:
    To fix these is relatively cheap if you are a DIYer like it sounds you are. There are good threads here for both of those here if you use the advanced search function to limit your search results to Gen 2 (and their child) threads.

    The AM2 fuse being blown is definitely a sign the inverter coolant pump needs to be replaced. It not being blown does not mean it is working, as they can just stop working without shorting out. It is relatively easy way to confirm by looking for turbulence in the inverter coolant reservoir. Again, the absence of a problem with the hatch opening does not confirm he CM is working (it only is a symptom sometimes), the fact your dash is dark means it is not working, and can also affect the MFD, so fixing the CM may be all that is required.
    This will be true of all modern vehicles, say 2005 on. If you want truly mechanical, you need to go back to 1995 or older. Computer control is only getting more so as cars progress to being fully autonomous. One way in which to win this battle is to be informed. Reading the new car features manual together with the repair manual will go a long way to removing the mystery of this car. This info is available for $15/$55 per business day at techinfo.toyota.com Also having access to a code reader that can read all the ECUs and well as accessing the many live data points available. While the learning curve may be steep initially, if you haven't worked before on cars with computer controls, once you get to know the different systems, it becomes easier.

    Anyway, good luck with the diagnoses and repairs if you go forward.
     
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  18. kswahl1

    kswahl1 Junior Member

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    Is the car still dead or can you still drive it?
     
  19. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    Hey thanks for the reply’s. The unfortunate part is that I can’t read the codes as I have zero power to the plug. I’ve tried with my meter and have had no luck. The car won’t turn in so I can’t see any bubbling/turbulence in the resivor. Is there a resistance that the inverter will show that I can throw into the plug for half a second just to see if that’s the problem. I of course wouldn’t drive it, maybe even just to put it in ready mode. Also is there a way to test the meter before pulling everything apart. The other threads are what made me realize that these are the problem. Would there be an issue if I supplied the inverter with twelve volt ten amp to see if it runs that might be the way to check? Thoughts?
     
  20. thomus

    thomus Junior Member

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    Could this be a straight up ecu malfunction? I did have a p3001 code before, I should have mentioned that. Also a bad cat. I was also told the brake actuator (the one with a zillion hydraulic lines that I could not fix) needs to be replaced. I guess the thing should be sold for parts. It’s just hard because the 90 mile a day round trip is exaspensive. Thank you all for your help sorry if I sound like a pain in the nice person,