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No ready mode after replacing two battery modules

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by bikeking19, Apr 8, 2018.

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  1. bikeking19

    bikeking19 Junior Member

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    I have a 2004 Prius with 165k on it. It had two bad cells in blocks 7 and 8 so I took the battery out, tested each cell and verified the two bad ones, swapped them out, put everything back together and hooked it up and the accessory lights will come on but there is no start, the engine doesn't seem to even attempt to crank. Any suggestions? I DIY because I couldn't afford to take it a shop, I'm an avionics technician and have a pretty advanced knowledge of electrical systems, any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. For starters I'm going to take everything apart again and test them once more.
     
    #1 bikeking19, Apr 8, 2018
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Did you double check the HV battery safety plug?
     
    #2 SFO, Apr 8, 2018
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  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Most often, under these circumstances, the problem ends up being the safety plug is not fully installed or the electrical plug that connects to the safety plug socket is not connected.
     
    #3 TMR-JWAP, Apr 8, 2018
  4. bikeking19

    bikeking19 Junior Member

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    I did. I just finished taking it out and vigorously cleaned every single contact point, all the batteries tested fine with and without load, put everything back together to torque and plugged every connection back in. Everything turns on except for the engine. At a loss now, no idea.
     
    #4 bikeking19, Apr 8, 2018
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 8, 2018
  5. bikeking19

    bikeking19 Junior Member

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    Ok so this appeared to be part of the problem. I realized I failed to push down on the safety plug after flipping it up. Now the car will flash ready a few times and the battery will click a few times, but still no start. Feels like I'm right there. Am I missing something still?
     
    #5 bikeking19, Apr 8, 2018
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 8, 2018
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  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Hope you have a Techstream capable obd decoder? Mini vci on amazon.com. Endless talk about it on this site. Its throwing alot of codes you just cant read them.

    In your rebuild you may have killed the 12 volt battery. Whats that measure on the front jump points?

    But pretty sure the hybrid battery is not happy. Reboot the car by unplugging the 12 volt neg lead and try to READY again.
     
    #6 edthefox5, Apr 9, 2018
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  7. bikeking19

    bikeking19 Junior Member

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    Battery was measuring 12.8 volts, even tried jumping just in case and same result. Have disconnected the 12v a couple of times to try resetting with no different result.

    LG-LS777 ?
     
    #7 bikeking19, Apr 9, 2018
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  8. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Is the check engine light on?

    Did you use an inch pound torque wrench to be sure every nut for the module posts and contactor is at the proper tightness? (Not too loose, not too tight).
    100% sure none of the modules are turned the wrong way?

    Any idea of voltage or state of charge of the HV pack?

    Spending less than $75 in diagnostic tools might help as well
    - Android phone/tablet
    - Elm 327 Bluetooth OBDII reader
    - Torque Pro app
    Then you could read and clear codes, see live data and post screenshots of the data.
     
    #8 ericbecky, Apr 10, 2018
  9. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Is the battery bolted down to the car body?
     
    #9 JC91006, Apr 10, 2018
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  10. bikeking19

    bikeking19 Junior Member

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    Yes I properly torqued the torsion bars and every nut for the cells. The Bluetooth scanner is a good idea.

    No the battery was not bolted down, just resting on top of the mounts.

    LG-LS777 ?
     
    #10 bikeking19, Apr 10, 2018
  11. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    You will want at least one bolt in place to hold it tightly to the body.
     
    #11 ericbecky, Apr 10, 2018
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  12. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Good one JC that would get me too...
     
    #12 edthefox5, Apr 10, 2018
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  13. Hybrid Battery Exchange

    Hybrid Battery Exchange Member

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    Must be grounded, computer does a few tests against the ground and if the battery is just sitting there the test will fail and it won't run.
     
    #13 Hybrid Battery Exchange, Apr 10, 2018
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  14. bikeking19

    bikeking19 Junior Member

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    I was hopeful this was the only problem but it was not. I tightened two bolts to the frame with the same result. I cannot seem to get a voltage reading on the hybrid battery for some reason. Testing both contacts under the plastic caps, with it grounded and everything plugged in and the safety plug inside. Is there something I'm missing that would cause this? One other important thing is when I worked on it today I realized one of the posts for a cell in block 1 is stripped so it is unable to be torqued all the way. I know this means I will have to replace that cell as well but would one cell cause a no start? I'm ordering the Bluetooth reader on Amazon to try and troubleshoot further on my own before waving defeat and having it towed to the hybrid shop in town. I will upload pictures and screenshots of the findings when it comes in and of the connections.
     
    #14 bikeking19, Apr 10, 2018
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  15. Hybrid Battery Exchange

    Hybrid Battery Exchange Member

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    All connections must be properly tightened, it's not about one cell or two cells, it's a break in the chain. Don't even attempt to turn on the car if there's a bad connection between the modules, good way to ruin modules, sensing harnesses and possibly cause a fire.
     
    #15 Hybrid Battery Exchange, Apr 10, 2018
  16. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Yeah I'd say this was a pretty important detail.

    Yes you would need to replace that module before you continue with anything else.
     
    #16 JC91006, Apr 10, 2018
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  17. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    With the safety plug installed (even if not pushed down to satisfy the interlock) you should have full battery voltage across the BATTERY SIDE of the relays. If not, you have a continuity problem in the series connections, main cables or disconnect. The safety disconnect must be COMPLETELY installed (interlock satisfied) in order to get the output relays to close. Once they are closed (READY state) you will have full battery voltage on both sides of the relay.
     
    #17 TMR-JWAP, Apr 10, 2018
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  18. bikeking19

    bikeking19 Junior Member

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    Good to know. And just to verify this should be something I can measure with the battery out of the car as well correct?

    LG-LS777 ?
     
    #18 bikeking19, Apr 11, 2018
  19. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Yes. Also, I've never actually had a nut strip out threads on a battery terminal stud. But, I do know for fact that at ~100-110 inch pounds, the internals where the stud attaches will twist apart. (experimenting with failed modules) Maybe this is what happened? If the entire stud is spinning when you turn the nut, then it's sheared off internally.
     
    #19 TMR-JWAP, Apr 11, 2018
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  20. Hometown Hybrids

    Hometown Hybrids Junior Member

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    Howdy, if you didn't lock the orange safety plug down and then later did, you'll have to clear the codes before the car can recognize the fix. If you're still having problems give me a call and I can facetime with your battery :)
    Jessica
     
    #20 Hometown Hybrids, Apr 16, 2018
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