BRAKE, (!), and ABS on dashboard

That indicates that your 12 V is getting weak. Weak enough to cause a false failure report from the ABS system......maybe not.

Even if there IS a fault in the ABS system, the brakes will still work without ABS.
Probably not enough time to explore fixes before your trip, just drive extra careful.
Hope there is no ice or snow on the route.

 

It is not likely that the 12V battery, although marginal, is causing the BRAKE, ABS and ((!)) lights to turn on.

I think it is a bad idea to go on a road trip with a vehicle that has a known fault logged by the skid control ECU. Read the DTC and figure out what is wrong with the car. Rent another vehicle if necessary for your trip.

 

Although I wish it were mentioned here more often, there is a feature Toyota built in for you just because braking is so important: you do not need any special code reading equipment to get the basic diagnostic codes from the skid control ECU. If you search around here for posts on how to jumper the Tc to the CG pin at the diagnostic connector and count the blinks of the dash lights, you can find posts with pictures and details, and get two-digit versions of the trouble codes that way. You can find all the details about it in the repair manual too, of course.

(If you have appropriate code-reading equipment, you can get more-specific trouble codes and a lot of additional information, but this makes sure you can pull out the basic information right away wherever you are, as long as you can find a skinny piece of wire or a paper clip.)

-Chap

 

I disagree with the diagnosis stated above. The ABS system is totally unrelated to the engine coolant system.

 

Did they include the ABS code(s) in their report? The skid control ECU does have some codes that merely indicate it has been notified of an issue by another ECU.

-Chap

 

Sorry but that is NOT a fix.......for the reported problem.
It is just a huge, unfortunate coincidence.

The original problem likely will be back.......relatively soon.

 

As far as your 12 V battery is concerned, 12.5 V represents 60% SoC assuming it is an OEM AGM battery. The only thing that you could do for it is charge it up and test it again. An AGM battery in good condition and fully charged should have a voltage of 12.9-13.2 V.

So, you are going to have to let go of the notion or hope that it is only the 12 V battery that is the cause of your issues.

Diagnostic tool:

• VxDaig Nano for Toyota;
• Tactrix Openport 2.0 made in California;
  
• Mini VCI.

All of these are J2534 cables that connect your OBDII port on your car to your USB port on your laptop. All these are compatible with Toyota's Techstream, which can be downloaded free with a $55 2 (business) day subscription to Toyota's Technical Information System (TIS) website. The subscription also gives you full access to the entire Toyota technical library which includes the Repair Manual (RM), New Car Features (NCF) manual, Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD).

The Tactrix Openport is designed and made in California if you are inclined to support local industry. With the first two options, be sure that you are buying the genuine article and not a clone or counterfeit.

Other options are a bluetooth dongle paired with:

• Torque Pro app (paid for ($5) not the free Torque) (Android)
• Hybrid Assistant app and Hybrid Analyst app (Android);
• EngineLink app (Apple);

Check on the developer website for what bluetooth (or WiFi) dongles are compatible with their apps. Not all dongles are equal.

 

Also for the easy-to-obtain tool list:

• A short piece of skinny wire

If a quick search on Tc CG count blink codes doesn't get you twenty or more threads telling you the details, I'll be surprised.

-Chap

 

Please clarify: what's back, which lights?

That's not bad, a little low but not terrible. You could try a smart charger session, something in 3~4 amp range.