DIY 12V Battery Replacement Add'nl Info

Thank you.

 

I wonder what opening and closing the fuel door does, and I wonder why they mention the back door at all, since the battery is under the hood.

It's nice to see that the system stores at least some of the nav/radio stuff to permanent storage after some time. I still wonder what exactly will you lose(fuel economy information? etc.)

 

Yeah, this is interesting. Some sort of flash memory?

Maybe there should be a bold notice whenever it's inch pounds of torque being specified. There's been two instances here where someone inexperienced has taken the heads off the wee bolts that hold down the ignition coils.

For a little perspective: inch pounds divide by 12 to become foot pounds, so 48 inch pounds becomes 4 foot pounds. And 50 inch pounds, well that's awful close to 4 inch pounds too. If it was throttle body hold down bolts I'd persist, get out the 1/4" drive torque wrench.

But with battery cables, I'd be inclined to just one-hand it with a box wrench, just firmly snugging it, like a tap that's starting to drip. Especially since battery cable clamps are often in a location where a torque wrench, or any ratchet wrench, just won't fit.

 

Every bolt on a car has a torque spec but I have never torqued a battery bold and I am still alive to prove it.

If you can't find the torque spec for a specific bolt in most cases you can look up engineering charts that have general torque specs. On critical things like head bolts not so much.

 

by fuel lid, do they mean cap?

 

There's one instance in the 2016 Owner's Manual (US) of the term "fuel lid", and I think they're substituting for the usual "fuel filler door", just inferring from the context of the sentence:

 

thanks, i never thought about it before, but something happens to relieve pressure when the door/lid is opened.
even my car has notification when it is okay to fuel up, after pushing the button to open the door.

 

I've not noticed anything on our 2010 CDN, you pull a lever and the lid pops open, but nothing on the dash. Different country and regs maybe.

 

could be, or maybe the pip is different?

 

Or 2012 onward?

 

could be an update i suppose, mid cycle refresh?

 

You are in a GEN 4 Forum.

 

and loving it.

 

• System initialization, after reconnecting the battery:
  • Open and close the fuel lid before turning the power switch on
  • Steering Sensor Zero Point Calibration: “Drive the vehicle straight ahead at 35 km/h (22 mph) or more for 5 seconds or more.”
  • “If the back door is locked and therefore cannot be opened, it is necessary to unlock the back door using the door control switch [or] electrical key transmitter sub-assembly switch.”

This Prius sure has a lot of weird electrical stuff going on. That's crazy! And do you really think the mechanics at the dealer are going to do all that???

 

Just the thread I was looking for.
So any dead batteries yet for the 2016?
Noticed that Advance Auto carries one that fits.
I always keep one pirate eye out at the 3 year point.
Last time the dealer was reasonable but doubt that will be the case this time around as I live in a new location.

 

AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size H4, 410 CCA $149.99

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-h4-410-cca-h4/11348065-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000%7CL3*15597

 

Yep, that's the one and they will swap it out for free.

Also 25% off for new customers

 

I wonder if @PiPLosAngeles knows about this. He's still waiting for a battery as far as I know.