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New 12v and 06 Prius still wont go into "D" or "R"

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by Ma Swit, Sep 12, 2018.

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  1. Ma Swit

    Ma Swit New Member

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    Hi

    I read a lot on here recently which led me to believe I needed a new 12v battery, as my car had all warning lights on and would not go into "D" or "R". I got one and installed myself. The car immediately started and run but only for 50-60 miles before the lights came on again (which may have happened if I simply unplugged from old battery, but was time for a new one anyway after 4 years). This time I knew if I put it in "P" I wold not be able to get back into "D" or "R". I was correct as when I got home and went into "P" I couldn't get back to "D" or "R". (learned this the hard way with old battery and a $200 tow).
    Anyone here know whats going on please and how to resolve it?
    I have pulled the 12v plugs and re-plugged it and it now goes into "D" and "R"!
    I cannot do this ever time I need to start the car so any answers would be appreciated :)
     
    #1 Ma Swit, Sep 12, 2018
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!

    any dash lights?

    could be your inverter pump is overheating. any turbulence in the reservoir?
     
    #2 bisco, Sep 12, 2018
  3. Ma Swit

    Ma Swit New Member

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    Almost all warning lights come on...........how would I check the inverter pump?
    What do you mean "turbulence in the reservoir"

    12v shows as healthy, no codes showing.
     
    #3 Ma Swit, Sep 12, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2018
  4. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    What kind of 12v battery did you buy? There's some criminals who run a crappy battery company that sell batteries to unwitting Prius owners...
     
    #4 PriusCamper, Sep 12, 2018
  5. Ma Swit

    Ma Swit New Member

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    Maxx EverStart 51
    Followed advise from someone on here.
    Just checked and it shows 14.5 when engine running. But within an hour of resetting (unplugging battery) it goes back to no shifting but battery still healthy reading.
     
    #5 Ma Swit, Sep 12, 2018
  6. audiodave

    audiodave Active Member

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    When you look into the reservoir you see movement in the fluid.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #6 audiodave, Sep 12, 2018
  7. Ma Swit

    Ma Swit New Member

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    Yes I do.....seems ok and pumping (cooling reservoir I assume u mean)
     
    #7 Ma Swit, Sep 12, 2018
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You have a ground isolation fault, . Where the car will only allow you to start once and then disable itself. Disconnecting the 12v will temporarily allow you to start once again.

    There are many areas that can cause this fault. And none of them are cheap to fix.

    1. Hv battery
    2. Transaxle
    3. Ac compressor
    4. Inverter

    Just to name a few
     
    #8 JC91006, Sep 12, 2018
    strawbrad, Raytheeagle and PriusCamper like this.
  9. Ma Swit

    Ma Swit New Member

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    So how would I figure which one it is as there seems to be no codes coming up?
     
    #9 Ma Swit, Sep 12, 2018
  10. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I think the 12v issue is resolved... Next step is to find out the error codes that are being stored when it won't shift... I suspect the car is disabling your ability to shift because the error code is serious enough to cause further damage to your car if you keep driving it. Autoparts stores will read your codes for free with a hand held tool, but it only is able to read some of the codes and not subcodes. For ~$15 you can buy an OBD2 bluetooth reader that you connect your phone to with various apps, like Dr. Prius, that can read your subcodes. Here's the buying guide for those devices: priusapp.com/obd

    Final option is to call around and find a mechanic with Toyota Techstream Diagnostic Software and an Mini-VCI reader, or if you're good with installing software on Windows machines you can buy this one for yourself via ebay for ~20 Just do a search for: MINI VCI Interface FOR TOYOTA TIS Techstream MINI VCI J2534 OBD2
     
    #10 PriusCamper, Sep 12, 2018
  11. Ma Swit

    Ma Swit New Member

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    OK thanks, I will look into that.......in the meantime I guess there is no easy fix to get me through the next few days without damaging the car?
    I may bring to Toyota and see what they find.....I am sure they will find something costing an arm and a leg to fix ;)
     
    #11 Ma Swit, Sep 12, 2018
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many miles on her? could be corrosion in the battery case
     
    #12 bisco, Sep 12, 2018
  13. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Are you saying a corroded voltage sensor sending bad readings is going to lead to a ground fault disabling of the vehicle? I don't have enough experience to know if that's possible, but that certainly would be the least expensive fix... Of course getting the error codes is probably the first step... No sense working on HV if error codes don't indicate that's where the problem is.
     
    #13 PriusCamper, Sep 12, 2018
  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    agreed. i have read that corrosion can lead to a ground fault. not sure if it is specifically the voltage sensor
     
    #14 bisco, Sep 12, 2018
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  15. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    If it was just the HV battery we were focused on it'd mostly be a matter of measuring the heat levels (HV fan noise, feeling the chrome cargo tie down bolts that screw in the battery pack cover while out driving) to determine how much damage you're causing. But still not sure that's the only problem. Hopefully others will chime in.
     
    #15 PriusCamper, Sep 13, 2018
  16. Ma Swit

    Ma Swit New Member

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    Just returned from Toyota......they have no idea as no codes show up due to the need to disconnect the battery to get the car to start when plugged in again...........I thought in the 20-25 minute drive to the dealer the codes wold repopulate and they could see them. They would like $150 to diagnose it!

    Car has 350k on it. Brand new HV battery and 12v battery and replaced the ground wire withe the new battery.

    Now the red triangle and yellow brake fluid warning light come on after a few minutes of driving.
    When I stop, shut off the car and restart it all lights come on and I am not able to get it in gear again.
    Unplugging the battery for a few minutes allows me to get back into drive and off we go again :)
     
    #16 Ma Swit, Sep 13, 2018
  17. Al Bundy

    Al Bundy Member

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    next to the 12 volt battery you will see a black box about 4 inchs square theres a white plug with a few wires going to it, try unplugging it for a min than plug it back in, see if that help..
    has your digital dash been giving you trouble?
    also is the 12 volt fully charged?
    new dosent mean its a good battery, defects happen
     
    #17 Al Bundy, Sep 13, 2018
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    'now the red triangle and yellow brake fluid warning light come on after a few minutes of driving'.

    and yet, they didn't on your way to the dealer?
     
    #18 bisco, Sep 13, 2018
  19. Ma Swit

    Ma Swit New Member

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    Yes battery fully charged. Unplugged the box u r referring to also to no avail but will try again now and update you in a few mins
     
    #19 Ma Swit, Sep 13, 2018
  20. Al Bundy

    Al Bundy Member

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    i got lucky with my 08, what i thought was rust inside the case was an acid leak from one of the mods shorted through the screw into the case..
     
    #20 Al Bundy, Sep 13, 2018
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