Going to install a new 12v bat

Nope just swap it radio easy reprogram

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It's good your clearing the memory. Hopefully your problems will be gone.

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you might have to reset the windows

 

Why did you choose the Optima ?
They don't have a really good reputation for reliability.

 

Great choice, better than oem, check it for charge, chances are you will need to trickle charge it up to full before installing, clean the terminals and use dielectric to make a good or better connection.

 

You don't have to keep voltage supplied, but it will save all the volatile memories: radio presets, and possibly the window auto-up (if so equipped). One other thing: I sometimes intentionally disconnect the 12 volt when doing brake work, and subsequently I'll notice an odd engine rev-up, at the next maybe two start-ups, like the car's computers are recalibrating something.

Lots of ways to supply 12 volt, what I did was get an OBD to 12 volt cord, purpose-built for this. It's an OBD plug at one end, albeit with only the 12 volt pins, and has the cigarette lighter style plug at the other end, which I plug into a 12 volt receptacle on my jump pack. the cord has an indicator light so you plug in first one end, then the other, to verify you have a good connection. Some cords have an indicator light for both ends, a little easier.

Here's one example:

 

Dielectric grease is NOT a conductor.
It is intended to be put on the OUTSIDE of connections to prevent corrosion without causing a partial short.
It is NOT intended to be used between conducting surfaces.

 

Good point, it will squeeze out and protect the terminals, keeping them from oxidizing.

 

As said, no worries about losing things -- except -- in some cases -- at least in our Camry, the computer lost the correct idle speed.

Don't know if that happens with the Prius, it did not when I put in a new Prius battery five years ago.

But with the Camry I ended up having to clean the throttle body, the MAF and letting the car idle for about 30 minutes in the driveway before the idle smoothed out.

Personally, read enough stuff on here about Optima that I go for the Toyota TrueStart. The warranty is terrific, it fits perfectly and the price can usually be haggled down with coupons and/or begging/complimenting or otherwise "working over" the parts counterperson at the dealership.

 

The point IS.......that once you have grease inside a connection, you can never get it ALL out just by "squeezing".....and it might cause problems down the road.

 

I'll look at how things come from the factory, consider that. Not saying it's always right, it could be they were cutting corners. I know, for example, the little nuts and screws on the car underbody REALLY should have been drenched in oil from the outset. Ditto for the license plate bolts.

But anyway: the 12 volt battery termininals were clean and dry from the factory, so I keep them that way. Something I like to do though, is remove the battery, say around year three, brush the posts and clamps back to shiny metal, and reinstall.

 

Hey Mendel, I like to take the NEW battery and get that pricey "spray can" battery protectant and spray the entire battery with it before I install.

Then I let it dry for a couple of hours. Never have a problem with corrosion.

Permatex Battery Protector and Sealer 5 oz. - Ace Hardware

 

Obviously, any dielectric that doesn't squeeze out is filling empty space, which will now not oxidize, win-win.

 

Bad assumption.
That is not true.

The film just gets thinner and thinner and never completely goes away......except maybe under EXTREME pressure and heat.

 

I just fitted a calcium 12v battery fitted perfectly Yuasa ybx5057 48Ah, calcium batteries are happy with AGM charging voltages. It comes with as 5 year warranty here

 

If you study up on the specs of your "calcium" battery, you should find that it really is mostly a conventional lead/acid design with a tiny bit of some calcium compound thrown in there somewhere.
That technology/chemistry has been around LONGER than AGM.

And in most common applications, an AGM battery is perfectly happy with a charging system designed for wet cell lead acid use. There really isn't THAT much difference.

 

I agree with you mostly but the calcium batteries live long on an AGM charging regime where as a standard wet lead acid won't last at the higher charging voltages. Calcium additive to the plates to reinforce them physically has been around for ages but the new batteries or calcium calcium as some call them are far superior. I know from seeing test results but you would have to speak to an expert as to the chemical changes they have made.

 

No OEM suggests doing this and no battery manufacturer does either, both groups have spent more time and $$$ researching the best maintenance practices than the world of DIY'ers have.

As a RULE, you NEVER EVER put a non-conductive material between two conductors that are intended to be "electrically bonded". There are products specifically made to be used in such applications, dielectric grease they are not.