Huge knocking noise between engine and cvt

Hey guys I tried to find a post that has similar situation but no luck. If this happened to you or if you know the solution please kindly help.

2010 Prius 200k miles, burning oil. Egr replaced 20k miles ago.

Got random cylinder misfire, sometimes 2 cylinders at a time. Only happen when engine is warmed up. When cold runs like a new.

Did changed the spark plugs and coil. Situation improved a little. The shaking mostly comes from between engine and cvt. I found a video from another YouTuber which has the exact sound and shaking at the same spot but unable to contact him. Here is the link to the video, (not sure if link is allowed here)

If you have experience with this situation please help thanks!!!

 

Btw I have a mechanic changed the blown head gasket and did a little clean up. But the shaking problem is still there.

 

Thanks for your input.
After he replaced the head gasket, I did clean up the egr and cooler. It’s lots of work, but at least made the passage acceptable. Before is not breathing.

The coolant level did not drop except the little bit leaked when I clean the egr and cooler. Burning oil like crazy, but same as before. Did not measure how much, but couple quarts every 1k miles.

Will clean the intake manifold, i did a Mickey Mouse clean before but will plan to do a more detail cleaning soon.



Today after I cleaned the egr and valve, when start up I hear couple sound like someone kicking the tires but not obvious. Did drive on freeway about 1 hr, everything was good except the little kicking tire like vibration, but the more I drive the more rattling it developed, and at the end, it is somewhat like the video again.

I read lots of posts and people have this situation as well. Everytime they did some clean up or replacement the engine was good for a short while or maybe 1 week then the same problem will come up.

Btw, the replace hybrid battery pack signal comes on again. Before it did come on but does not affect performance except no hybrid. Can changing the battery solve this problem? Or just another short term remedy?

 

Oh did I mention everything is fine when the engine is cold? I literally mean that the car is fine, no rattling, no shaking and no problem. The warmer it gets the worse it drives. This stays true even before the gasket was blown.

I notice the engine temperature can’t reach more than 70 degree c after he replaced the gasket. Any idea how to fix this?

 

2 guys, they are mobile mechanic. I did not see it when they replaced it. But I don’t think they do because they said a lot of things but did not do it. They said they had cleaned up the egr valve but obviously they did not, they did clean the pipe though.

I wanted to change the thermostat to see but I can’t find much info on the Prius 3, do we have a thermostat? Is it attached to the water pump?

However, my headache is why my the car is perfectly fine when it has not driven for a while or cold? And i had the same problem before replacing the gasket, but before I just need to use thicker oil and now even thicker oil does not help.

 

Thanks! I agree with you, but Bay Area labor cost is ridiculous. These 2 guys are not too bad, just not good enough to recommend. They did changed the valve stem seals I believe, $825 for everything, gasket and seals and there is another seal at the lower part of the engine. Don’t know what that is but I believe they did the valve stem seals because I found the old one on the ground in a bag. They were doing it outside my work place. That’s why I don’t think they care much about the clean up. They did it pretty quickly tough like 4 hrs. That’s why I don’t think they did too much with cleaning the egr which they said they did. It was all clogged up.

I just want to fix it up good enough and trade in for another Prius. I did not get a supreme condition Prius from Toyota dealer that’s why not worrying too much trading it in. Let them fix the rest, but I just want to know more about this Prius and common problem because I am sure I will run into them again. Love the 3rd gen man.

 

I hope it is engine mount and will take a look tomorrow. But the does not sound like rubber rattling. It’s more like metal banging each other hard, and the whole car shake.

The only thing I have not touched so far are fuel injectors, and intake manifold and throttle body clean up.

I did however disconnect the 12v battery and restart. Today seems to have 4 hrs quiet drive time, with occasionally some knocking, but goes away fairly quickly, but I drove super gently today. Hoping it does not come back soon. But when I got home the rattling was back. Finger cross Tmr a better day.

 

I don’t plan to put more money fixing the car, only if the method is not expensive and I can do it myself. Will trade in another 3rd gen. I did consider getting an engine but Bay Area is expensive. A decent job would easily goes more than 3k$ which I rather spend on a newer 3rd gen.


Regarding the oil consumption I will keep you guys posted, seems improved, but need to drive for more time to tell.

 

And thank you guys for all your input. Will carefully consider your suggestions.

 

By the way I saw on YouTube another guy has a similar problem but he fixed it with new coils. I did change my coil but still get misfire.

But the point is he mentioned that when there are misfire the motor generator will run to smooth out the misfire vibration, if that’s true I think it make sense that the vibration could actually caused by the motor generator and makes it worse. A regular misfire won’t be making such a Big Bang. And when the banging happens the hv battery tends to drain super fast. Like drained to 2 bars from full in 5 sec. don’t want to get new battery that’s why prefer a trade in soon.

As mentioned above I want to know how to handle most common problem before moving on.

 

Just a little update, good and bad.

I have finally removed the egr and cooler and clean it myself. it was clogged. I can't test the egr because i cant remove those 2 screws, i am kind of stripping it so i gave up. just cleaned the egr and cooler. after reinstalling everything the problems still exists. but then i disconnect the 12v battery for few minutes and put it back, the problems seems to improve alot but occasionally still have the shakes and misfire code.

every time i let the car cools and erase the engine light code it seems to give me few hours of almost worry free drive time. of course i was very gentle on it.

when i was doing the clean up i found one piece of metal fell out and it was from the thermostat housing i believed. so few days later in the morning without starting or warming the car i removed the thermostat house and try to see if the thermostat is missing that piece, and it is, and the whole housing has nothing inside. and i am sure the mobile mechanic did break something and not telling me and just reinstall the parts. well i dont have the new parts so i just put back the things and gonna order that part. but I CAN'T START THE CAR!

it throws 3 codes, P3190 and P3191 (these are engine low power) and P0A80 replace hybrid battery. I had the P0A80 for a while but i just cleared the code and keep driving. until the P3190 and P3191 code i cant drive the car anymore. screwed myself.

the car turned on for few seconds and died and can't turn it back on again unless restart the on off process. and i can smell gas from the back of the car.

Please kindly put in your advice if you know P0A80 caused the P3190. and does coolant leaks from thermostat housing could have shorted something? I check all the small fuses and they look ok, unable to remove the big fuses to check. Thanks for your advice.