Finally found the ideal "pinch weld" jacking block

No coffee (I like it, but IT doesn't like me and makes an addict out of me), but certainly other caffeine vehicles have been applied (tea for me).

I always lift one corner at a time. I use a floor jack and the jacking points of the car (on my '98 Volvo S70 there was only one point per side, but it was super-rugged and had a special steel rod attached to interact with the factory jack in the trunk). I never ever leave the car on the jack, even if I am rotating tires. I use jack stands and place them where subframe attaches to the body. It is super-secure and I've been doing that for the past 30+ years. However, every time I place the hydraulic floor jack's cup under that pinch weld I cringe and think it's not great for that part of the body. I thought of making a block from a piece of scrap 2x4, but never got around to it (in 30+ years) and never caused any damage to any of my vehicles as a result of my lifting technique. So this is more of an exercise of growing older and wiser and finally putting a block under that pinch weld, even if the jack only spends less than 3 minutes under it. I would never pay more than a piece of scrap 2x4 is worth for a store-bought product, though.

 

Yeah even one use of the supplied scissor jack, on a rear corner (putting on the temp spare in a parking lot), I saw dimpling of the (thin) sheet metal, on the flat zone right behind the proscribed scissor jack point. The scissor jack cradle dimensions are such that the weld seam is cupped laterally, but not bearing. The bearing is on that flat zone directly behind.

Whether you bear on the weld seam, or the flat zone directly behind, I don't think it can take the load; it starts to deflect right away.

 

I never use the supplied jack if I can help it. So far haven't had to on the Prius. Have lifted it many times now by the seam with the cup of the hydraulic jack and no deformation at all. But I do tend to cringe every time I do it. It really does not look like it can take it. Alas, so far so good.

 

Yeah same here. I've only used it the once, for emergency. I guess I'm just trying to make a point, that that point is weak as you-know-what.

Nother thought: whenever you lift one corner, you're putting torsion/twisting on the body. Raising at the front or rear central point, the car just hinges on the wheels. There's still a fair bit of flex though: raising/lowering, if you sight along the underside, you can really see bowing.

 

Point taken. Raising by the corner is not the best way to go. Maybe I'll try the central lifting thing next time. Old habits die hard, though. Been doing it this way since I was a teenager on a curbside in Boston, lol. For oil changes ramps are probably best, but I do not have ramps. They take up too much space. Central lifting and two jack stands is probably best compromise. I'll give that a try next time.

 

I don't like ramps, especially within the tight confines of a garage. I have a 3 ton jack (cheapie, but good lift), four six ton jack stands, four three ton jackstands, and four heavy rubber wheel chocks. Was thumbing through my pics and noticed this, was just attempting to rust-proof a bit:


Here I'm using the safety stands at the (rear) points per my first picture. The cradles are oriented longitudinal, parallel to the car length. They're on very strong, reinforced plate humps.

I always like to put a tree stump under a main beam, for insurance.

 

"Nother thought: whenever you lift one corner, you're putting torsion/twisting on the body."
There are jack points for each corner so if you get a flat you don't have to lift the whole car to change one tire.
There's flex in every frame, you won't hurt it by raising one corner. They give you points to raise it.
I only raise the right front wheel to change the oil without any problems.

 

Love the stump!

 

Hey, it's thicker than me...