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From o2 sensor to engine replacement in 10 days?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by FantasticalMagicOne, Dec 29, 2018.

  1. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    Yeah, the 12v died while troubleshooting to diagnose the other issue I've been having with the car. Probably a good thing considering that it turned out to be a bad battery, and not just a dead one. It is possible that the burning smell was coming from the battery itself, but better safe than sorry on this one.
     
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  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    You’ll get your hv battery fan clean too;).

    So a side benefit(y).
     
  3. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    Assuming the fan motor is not causing the burning smell.
     
  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Nope. I’m sure there is stuff in the cage of the fan blades;).

    The burning electrical smell is its own challenge :cool:.

    But if there is enough blockage, it could restrict movement and lead to overworking the fan. So there could be a correlation.

    Only one way to find out (y).
     
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  5. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Improvised panel removal tools:

    Guitar picks
    expired drivers licenses & charge cards
    bamboo chopsticks & popsicle sticks
    Plastic kitchen spatulas
    disposable plastic knives <-- especially good for 8mm pop fittings

    The basic point is prying tools that are generally softer than whatever the car panels are made of, while being strong enough to be useful without breaking.

    Guitar picks and credit cards work great to start openings and to use as fulcrum guards for harder tools like a regular screwdriver so it won't mar the car plastic.

    Wooden bits are great because once you start an opening, you can leave a stick in there to hold it half-loose while you free up the next clip down the line instead of putting too much force in from one end.

    You can also put tape over the screwdriver tip to soften it.

    Good luck!
     
  6. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    Nearing 150 posts.
    I think rescuing Apollo 13 was simpler.

    "....Prius Chat...we have a problem...."
     
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  7. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Nothing like a little sarcastic brow beating along the way:cool:.

    Ever been to an area and tried to get work done in your vehicle where the vehicle you drive is:
    1. Not popular
    2. Not well understood
    3. Seen as too complicated
    4. No true hybrid specialists reside in a reasonable response area
    Then complicate that matter with:
    1. The car has performed fine up until now
    2. Basic tools are at hand but probably more are needed
    3. Use of the tools for the task will be the first time it’s performed
    4. Learning along the way to execute the task happens
    5. Finding other things while executing the first task happens
    Then you get to the number of posts we see;).

    Thanks for the support and encouragement (y).
     
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  8. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    a bad 12v battery can cause all sorts of weird symptoms; that might be the whole problem. autozone should have a plastic wedge kit, which is what you need to help remove the rear panels to inspect your HV fan and battery. look very carefully for cracks in the body at the top of the rear hatch where the black trim strips meet the hatch opening, might even want to remove the trim strips to look under the ends of them. clean the area very well and apply silicone sealer.

    the technicians at your dealer must be retards if they didn't check the 12V and then told you you need an engine. its likely your 12V was original. make sure the battery clamps are clean and shiny before you install the battery; corrosion from all the water will cause a bad connection, and sometimes the corrosion isn't obvious. might be a black glassy coating as opposed to the typical whitish powdery stuff you see normally.
     
  9. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    If NASA had not employed a CAPCOM their "thread" would have been 150 posts an hour until the astronauts died.
     
  10. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    I'm watching the video on tearing it apart another time. Thanks for the tips on removing the panels. I slept in (a rarity) and awoke to the tool I couldn't find yesterday. My other half found it and bought it while I slept. I'm armed with everything I need. It's extremely windy here in the back mountain (usually is), so I grabbed some sandwich bags for all the bolts and bits I'll be removing.

    I decided that I'm going to pull out the HV battery to check for corrosion, I suspect after 10yrs that it's likely to be present. I was reading about dielectric grease on the busbars to prevent future corrosion. Any input on this?
     
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  11. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Have a torque wrench as the spec on the connection for the busbars is 48 INCH pounds.

    The 1/4” drive torque wrench is what you need.

    As for wind, by where my folks live they put wind mills on each hill and there are about 80 in total. Big deal when they did this about 10 years back. There was a strong wind the one time where it snapped one of the blades.

    One of my cousins found it when they were hunting in the area.

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
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  12. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I think you should just concentrate on the 12v for now, then do a diagnostic on the REAL issues on your car afterwards. If you tackle multiple things at once, you'll then have a harder time figuring out where your problems are
     
  13. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    I have all the torque specs, but thanks for the tip. I have a 1/4 in-lbs and a 3/8 in ft-lbs. :cool:

    I'm not surprised at all that the wind here snapped a blade off a windmill. It's amazing that I don't get blown off the road!
     
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  14. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    ^ I like that idea too. All of the ECUs that track, monitor, log, control and eventually complain about... things... are all powered by the 12v system. A lousy 12v battery will make an otherwise healthy prius act like a basket case.
     
  15. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    The burning smell and water issue is still a big concern for me. It's better to change the battery then run the diagnostic before removing anything?
     
  16. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I don't think you should immediately move to the HV battery. You can inspect for water as that has no relation to anything else on this thread. If the panel is removed, just leave it off until your diagnostic/repairs are complete
     
  17. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    Will do. Thanks!
     
  18. FantasticalMagicOne

    FantasticalMagicOne Active Member

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    Is hooking up a power source to the front a necessary step? Seems that the only thing that does is reset some things. Didn't I already do that when I disconnected the battery before I ran the last diagnostic (when the o2 sensor code disappeared and the AC sensor appeared)?
     
  19. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    No doubt the smell & leak are serious concerns. If I followed it right, the leak is one common to that body type. The smell could well be the suspected failed cell in the old 12v battery.

    I think it's worth replacing the 12v battery and proceeding with diagnostics, going in with the idea that maybe nothing else is wrong. Treat the roof leak issue independently.
     
  20. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Perhaps you mean connect power to prevent memory loss/reset? If it's already been through a reset then there's no data worth preserving.
     
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