From o2 sensor to engine replacement in 10 days?

It is a common issue with this body type, but it should be noted that the water drips in behind the panel and then flows into the trunk. I'm worried that the wires behind the panel got wet and that may be the cause of the burning smell. I'll be sealing the cracks separately. Harbor Freight was out of the clear RTV silicone, and I don't want to use a colored one (they had red and black, but my car is a dark gray). So a trip to Home Depot is in order, but that'll wait until I change the battery.

I'll follow the suggestions and change the battery then go from there.

 

Then I'm skipping that step. I'm off to brave the wind (finally). I'll keep everyone posted.

Words can't express how much I appreciate the help and advice from everyone. I've learned so much in such a short time!

 

Okay, I think that I have the wrong battery. That vent is supposed to be on the positive side, correct?

 

There is another vent hole. It didn't seem to go anywhere, but when I pulled the black hose out on the negative side it was identical. Thanks!

 

The battery is in! It was the original battery I replaced and it took me a bit to get all of the bolts out. Most of my time was spent soaking up water. There was quite a bit under the battery and again under the spare. We had quite a bit of rain the past few days. I'll be picking up the sealant tonight and will address the leak tomorrow.

In the meantime, I ran another diagnostic and only that solar panel sensor code appeared. The sun set a bit ago, so there's no surprise there.

There was no electrical burning smell this time. Is the next step to start it up and see how it runs?

 

I put enough gas in it to reset the gas gauge before I drove it. It started up no problem and was at a decent battery level (2 or 3 bars above half). I let it run for a few minutes to warm up and lost a battery bar while sitting there. I drove it about 4 miles. It was still louder than I felt it should be and I lost battery power very quickly when accelerating, which was a struggle when going up hill. The battery was charging as it should, but the power stayed low [from 2 (purple) bars to 3 (blue)]. When I stopped at a stop sign, the ICE kept running and shook a bit as it ran (charging the battery when it was at 3 bars). About 2 miles in, I pulled over and force charged the battery and it took a minute or so to begin to charge (a lot longer than the previous times when I was bringing the car home). It ran better - when I stopped the ICE turned off as it's supposed to and it charged in the manner that it's supposed to, but still louder than it should. But I lost battery power very quickly, again charging as it should when I brake and go down hill without giving it any gas, but still low (between 2 and 3 bars again).

I only drove it around my block several times. I estimate it to be a half mile to three quarters of a mile to circle it once, and it offers varying terrain. A steep hill (up), a flat stretch, and down hill. The fastest I went was 30 or 35mph.

There was no electrical burning smell and none of the dashboard lights came on.

I ran the diagnostic again and it produced the same results (only the solar sensor code).

 

Keeping in mind, that none of this low power battery stuff or the shaking (albeit no longer violently) while idling was happening before I took the car in to get the sensor replaced. Is there anything among the parts that need to be removed to install that sensor (upstream), that would cause this low power issue if not reinstalled properly?

https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2018/07/149553_Oxygen_Sensors.pdf?fbclid=IwAR0qfd1MfSWV7IOdp4iG_Wj0AQ434AYHBLj02MtaBzhBAcDvKK30cYa758M

I'll clean the MAF and Throttle Body, as suggested, tomorrow. I know that might help with the idling issue, but I don't think it will do anything for the battery. I'm not really sure where to go from here.

 

What happened: I had a friend of mine replace the catalytic converter and muffler on the car, then the check engine light came on - upstream sensor. The heat plate around it prevents us from using a standard o2 socket to put it on, and the socket for it is $$$, so I brought it to the dealership. It ran fine when I brought it in (with the exception of not so great mileage, but the sensor), when I left that day is when the battery dropped power and the car wasn't charging it like it should. By the time I got home, the dash was lit up. So, it was after that repair that the battery losing power quickly. Towed it to the dealership and my friend didn't inform me that the cat was the wrong size and the pipe was too large (he used some sort of goop for the seal as the gasket was useless), or I would have sent it back. Anyway, that and the downstream sensor needed to be replaced, so I had them replaced. After that repair is when the car started shaking and the battery issue continued. Back to the dealership I went.

Mechanic Recommendation: New engine, this one is loaded with oil sludge.

2nd Mechanic: No oil sludge, it seems to be a power issue.

Currently: the HV battery isn't maintaining power, the car struggles to accelerate, and it shakes slightly when it idols (but only when the battery is less than 50% on the MFD).

 

I did, I had the dealership install a new one. I've had 2 cats installed since November.