Replaced complete EGR system w/photos

I'm in the same boat. I'm not completely sold on the catch can yet. Yes, it might keep things 'cleaner'. However, I'll probably be doing the EGR and manifold maintenance every 50K miles or so. Therefore, I'm not sure the catch can is warranted. I do have one though if I ever change my mind.

 

The OCC will keep everything really clean, catch all the excess oil going to the manifold. But I can't see myself emptying the OCC, I'm too lazy for that LOL. The car was designed to be operated without the OCC and if you clean out the intake ports every 100k miles it shouldn't need the OCC. Of course, you should clean out the EGR pipe every 50k to ensure the system doesn't get choked up with carbon buildup.

 

What bothers me: maybe that oil you see accumulating in the intake manifold is only part of it. How much might just breeze through and combust, maybe carbon-coating various components?

 

As the cars get older, they will be coated with all kinds of things you don't want. I do my maintenance according to how long I think I'll keep the car. If I think I'll have a car for 10 years, I do all the necessary maintenance to get me there. If you intend to keep the car for 20 years, then you might have to step up the maintenance and do a little more.

 

That's what the engine flush is for ( see other threads ).

 

I'd rather nip it in the bud though, always preferable.

 

Either that or folks are too anal about it ( just kidding ) .

As for myself, I was just too lazy more than anything last summer. My front suspension rehab on our Prius v did me in over the summer I think!

 

+1.

Stop something before it happens.

Excellent mantra.

 

That's the nature of Crankcase Ventilation getting burned up in the combustion.
Always has been since PCV was regulated in 1961.
Is the oil vapor and moisture that much of an issue compared to the gallons of gasoline that get burned up and pass through the combustion process?

Using an Oil Catch Can you can capture some of that oil vapor and moisture and keep it from pooling in the big, goofy, plastic Gen3 intake manifold that has large low points, evidently out of the flow enough for it to gather and pool after shut down.
Which most likely is the cause of 'Cold Start Engine Knock'. (Very bad thing. Bad for head gaskets, Yo.)

Is there a good description of how the new/improved intake manifold is different from the original?

The first time I hear cold start knock I'm going to flip my lid !!
I hope my driving patterns of never doing short runs keeps this from happening....

 

I've seen some low-res pictures, IIRC it was a cross-sectional view of fourth gen intake manifold. I'm assuming fourth gen manifold is carrying on the revision commenced sometime during 3rd gen, perhaps at the 2012 model year mid-gen revision.

I also noticed in @NutzAboutBolts manifold cleaning video (he has a 2012), he notes that pushing in some sort of pipe cleaner brush, the EGR inlet passage only goes a few inches.

On my 2010 with original intake manifold, the EGR inlet passage goes the full width. It's basically a "gallery", with capillaries off to the four intakes.

From all of the above, I believe the revised manifold truncates that full-length gallery, branches into two intermediate size passages, which both have two capillaries.

So, kinda like exhaust manifold description (but in reverse), the old is one-into-four, and the revised is one-into-two-into-four. The consensus though: the revision did not help much, if at all.

 

So, was the claim the new intake manifold design was 'just better' without specifying that it was for the 'Cold Start Knocking' problem in particular?
What you are describing is different EGR passages, which won't help with pooling oil/water vapors after a shut down, especially in humid/cold conditions.

Could it be: what is happening with Cold Start Knocking is a build up of classic 'Carb Icing' only on the walls of the intake manifold at low pressure areas where the intake air gets chilled enough to form ice during high humidity/low temp conditions?

The EGR only warms the IM a little and only in the zones where it runs. Plus it's been 'cooled' somewhat by the EGR cooler,, .

(I had a throttle body ice up after shut down, but didn't know it until after work my throttle pedal was stuck. The car started but when I forced the throttle open it stuck open!!! I had to shut off the engine. Then I started the car in 1st gear and went for it!! The throttle body had coolant hoses running through it to warm it. After a few minutes the ice melted and all was normal ever after!)

This is just a WAT ,, but,, what if owners that sometimes get Cold Start Knock tried a Warm Air Intake Mod?
It would only be needed seasonally.
Some of Eco Modders claim this will improve Fuel Economy.

 

.....EDIT.....
>Then I tried a '93 Honda Civic VX rated at 51 mpg hiwy. Rare expensive model, 1% of production.
It had an expensive '5 wire Lean Burn O² sensor'. Loved that it had AC!
EDIT:
>Completely forgot my 2000 Honda Insight ! It was the first car to beat the Metro with a 71 mpg hiwy rating! (before the EPA downgraded their numbers)
Had it about 3 years. Started to realize it didn't have room for 2 suitcases for a trip to the airport....
It got totaled when someone turned left in front of me in city traffic. Their airbag went off,mine didn't!
>Tried 2 different VW TDI diesels ...

I know,,, who cares....
But the theme here is I hate sending my American Dollars to OPEC.

 

I've heard it once, one of the first cool mornings last fall. I also avoid "doing short runs," so that's not a fool-proof solution.

 

Greetings from CT,

In a few months, I plan to replace the EGR pipe in a 2013 Prius and possibly a 2010 Prius. Both "basic" hybrids (NOT the C, V, PIP, etc).

I plan to order a replacement EGR pipe, because I do not know if I will have time in one day to remove it, clean it, and reinstall it. Having a clean one on hand will allow me to be confident that I can drive the car later in the day. I can soak and clean the current pipe over several days.

Two questions:

1) Are the catalog numbers described by @dame3780 (who appears to be driving a 2011 Prius Two today) still the best catalog numbers for the EGR pipe and the gasket(s) for my 2013 Gen 3 Prius?

2) Will the EGR pipe found in my 2013 Gen 3 Prius fit my friend's 2010 Prius (also a "basic" hybrid, NOT the C, V, PIP, etc.)?

Thanks for the shopping tips!

Stephen

 

I'm pretty sure the 3rd gen Prius have same EGR components. There was a revision to the valve, but either version will work. Verify parts nos at McGeorge Toyota parts, Amayama or other.

 

The pipe is easy to clean and should only take a few minutes at most.
The egr COOLER is the hardest to clean.
Do a search for junk yards and you could find one for a decent price. I found mine for
$55 including shipping. It's on the Prius now! It sure make reassembly a lot faster!

I'm going to try white vinegar on my original cooler. Maybe I'll start soaking it tomorrow???
In theory, it should work. But the pressure washer and oven cleaner does work!

 

195k on mine

 

ouch! Just a little clogged.

 

That is a clogged EGR cooler! But not completely.
Is the car an oil consumer? What's your miles per qt. of oil?

 

90%? More?

Would be interesting to see the condition of the EGR passages on the intake manifold. In particular at cylinder one.