From o2 sensor to engine replacement in 10 days?

About 30 seconds, I think. It was definitely less than a minute.


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I didn't run techstream, but it seems likely that it would be the same ones.

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There's at least 2 bars, maybe 3.

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Okay, I went out an tried to run techstream in ACC mode. I have 2 gas bars, and the HV display showed 3 bars. I noticed a clicking noise coming from the rear of the car where the 12V sits, and when I turned the car off the clicking noise stopped, so I'm pretty sure it was the 12V. While I was waiting for techstream to finish running the diagnostic, I noticed the HV battery dropped to 2 bars, and then to 1 bar. I turned the car off and didn't finish the diagnostic. This is what I managed to get from Hybrid Control and Engine and ETC.

 

I know to click on them, but I had to turn the car off before the diagnostic finished.

 

P035 1-4 are new to me. I did have the compression test done at the dealer ship.

Edit: After a little digging I learned that these reference ignition coil A, B, C, and D. I drove it home after the compression test and that was the last action taken with the car until I started it tonight.

 

Checking that will have to wait until daylight. It was already dark when I tried to start the car.

 

I had considered them being left over from that test. I don't know if I can start it again, it will have to wait until the morning.

If this is the case, then is it safe to assume that it just won't start? Could that be why there was a clicking sound coming from the 12V?

 

They're secure.

 

We rescheduled for next week. He had something come up, but if it has to be towed, then it'll get towed.

Taking the week to troubleshoot this doesn't seem like the worst idea.

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The HV battery showed none of this until I left the dealership the first time.

I know the sensor needs to be changed, but I still need to figure out where to go from there. It's never sat this long before, and troubleshooting is going to be difficult as I'm a novice, days are very short, and another storm is set to hit on Tues. I'm going to do what I can.

Someone mentioned fuel injectors a couple of pages ago, maybe that's a good place to start.

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It started today, and the battery read 1 bar above half. It lost a bar after about 2 minutes, but it was showing that it was charging as it does while idle (the battery bar didn't drop during those times). I tried to force charge it, but forgot to put it in drive (ugh!) and dropped the battery to purple. I put it in drive to force charge, and it took 1 minute to begin charging and a total of 3 minutes to get it to green. I put it in park and waited 2 minutes before it dropped one bar, then turned the car off.

There is still a fair amount of ice surrounding it, so I couldn't get the car out, but it did move forward and backward when put in drive and reverse (before the force charge). The idle was still rough.

That being said, after the clicking I heard from the 12V, I decided to check it and it was reading at 12.2, but charger said at 60%, so I left it on for a few hours until it was back at 100%. Which means I cleared the codes, but I didn't run techstream after I started the car and force charged the battery.

I did drop the $20 on TIS, and have been on a PDF conversion mission. I've been reviewing the sensor replacement and realized that the inverter is dropped to 0V before it's removed, which makes me feel more comfortable changing the sensor myself. We're about to get nailed with more snow, but the weather should be well enough by wed to pick up coolant and gloves* then give it a shot.

*I know that many don't use them as suggested. All one really has to do is avoid touching high voltage with both hands, which would allow the current to flow through the heart (yikes!). That being said, I'd feel better having them and can use some suggestions as I've found none in a size small and I worry about dexterity.