How so we clean under our cars?

Bingo.

 

Hmmm, those comments give me something to think about. I was in "not washing a car during winter school" for a long time. But my experience has been that even with very expensive underbody rustproofing, albeit only one example, all of my cars driven in harsh NE winters are rustbuckets by 10+ years of operation. Then I read an article suggesting washing weekly to prevent rust to develop on the cars regularly driven in the heavily salted regions. In fact, a quick search seems to show most so-called experts agree more frequent wash, especially of the underbody of a car, is important for cars in the snow belt. I don't care so much about the paint on the body or how the car looks, but I wanted to prevent rusting to cause mechanical or structural issues. I started the ritual of weekly washing of my car this winter after the first snowfall as long as snow and ice remained on the ground. I rarely wash my car during warmer months when there is no salt on roads. Of course, I am not going to find the answer for another 8 years, for less than 10 years old cars develop very little problems due to rust.

 

^ agreed, dry is a very big factor. You can coat the bottom of the car in the nastiest salt and it won't do much of anything bad as long as it stays bone dry.

Heated garages are often problematic because they aren't heated enough... if they were hot enough to leave the car totally dry most of the hours the car is parked that's fine.. but most people set the thermostat low for energy savings (smart!) and that winds up only being warm enough to turn the ice into liquid water, throwing you right into the worst possible conditions.

I fought this a long time in other cars and came to the conclusion that if I'm going to drive a (primarily steel) car in salty environment, I need to get my money's worth out of that car in ≤15 years.

 

But it's easily said than done. Road salts are spread to melt ice and snow. What you drive on and splash all over the underbody of the car is not dry salt, but a wet slurry of salted slush. How do you keep the car bone dry in those situations?

 

You can't. See edits to above post. Best you can hope for is to either expend enough energy to dry the car very quickly and then keep it dry overnight or tolerate the corrosion and solve the problem another way.

• Second car- the "winter beater"
• public transit on the snowy or wet days
• stick to inexpensive cars that can be replaced more often <--- my choice

 

Yap, I agree. 15 years is a limit in NE. Replacing in less than 10 years seems to be a more reasonable time frame. That's why I am thinking to lease our next car. Or buy used car cheap and dispose of it in 3~4 years.

 

If they spent a little less R&D on USB ports and LCD displays, a little more on hot-dip galvanizing, stainless steel and the like, they'd have my attention.

Local parking lot this morning, our Shiba just raring to go in, but not good for his paws.


Basically a big salt lick.

 

Yes, but USB ports and LCD displays are what sells. If the car never gets rust and last over 15 years, they would be out of business.

 

I keep thinking of that Seinna rear differential pic, lol. Looked like part of a marine reef.

 

Well, here in the North East, winter is usually served with an extra helping of salt. I've never really worried about the "high-pressure undercarriage squirt" which is de rigueur of most car-washes to which I've subjected ChuggyPig, although I'm sure it must tickle! (…think driving through intense rain @ 65 MPH! )

 

There is no ideal way of preserving a car in the North during winter, excepting keeping it garage in the winter months.

Rustproofing only slows rust. It is the "contact" and seam areas, as well as the fasteners that are some of the most important places to use a penetrating oil to displace moisture. Forcing water under pressure to wash out the oils actually increases the onset of corrosion.

Brake lines and fittings as are the bleeder nipples and other metal lines are also most vulnerable.

Just guest who plays for corroded and broken parts broken at the repair shop?

 

I see the jack stands, whats the stump for???

 

Insurance policy: it's thicker than my rib cage. Whenever practical I push that under first; I just feel better with that keeping me company. Otherwise I feel like I'm in a mousetrap. Or maybe a little bird cleaning a crodocile's teeth, Or...

 

Walking by our nearby (lawsuit paranoid) hospital today:

 

When I did live on the East Coast I would wash the car in the dead of winter and rinse the bottom and wheel wells with lots of fresh water from the hose. My 79 Celica had no rust and it was 10 years old at this time.

I think if I lived on the East Coast again I could not drive a new car in the winter, it would just kill me, with how much new cars cost today.

 

Here is your favorite photo of the Sienna showing what happens to a car driven 12 years in NE. LOL

BTW, this photo was taken at an auto repair shop in my town where I brought the van for an annual inspection. Well, they passed the car after giving me fair warning about rusted out rear differential and drive shaft. Crazy!

 

I feel for you, dude. My 7 year old Prius v looks almost the same as it did when it was new.

 

When working underneath a car, either use ramps, jack supports............or a wood stump!