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C1241, C1256 help please

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Figster10, Mar 2, 2019.

  1. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    My laptop died on me last night before I could play with the pressure sensors. The only part I’m stuck at is correctly testing or knowing a range for what I’m watching on the monitor on techstream. I see the numbers jump around but I’m not sure about the range or ranges to rule out a motor or pump.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I would have said more like 0.6 to 0.8 or so; it's always a good solid fraction of a volt in my experience. Larger in ON than in ACC (and in READY, the sign changes, as the MFD is then upstream of the battery).

    I'm just home from a trip and kind of skimmed this thread ... where did it say that?
     
  3. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    My 12v battery died while on ready mode-not ig on- while having laptop hooked up . Could it be that the battery is too low?? Lol

    I guess I’ll just switch the good battery in tonight and see if that changes anything
     
  4. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    Removed Aux battery and tested next to a good one and got a 3.85v reading on the dead battery, lol. I hooked up a 12.90v reading battery to see if the sound from the firewall would be gone but nothing changed. Is it safe to assume that maybe I should start going for the accumulator or possibly the ecu skid now?
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I missed this on my first skim through, but: were you talking about the two-page "cic12565.pdf" that dolj posted, and you were looking at readings of the wheel pressure sensors and the accumulator pressure sensor?

    How did you read those pressures exactly? I notice that two-page document only gives steps for reading the accumulator pressure sensor using the "hand-held tester" (precursor of Techstream; you can use Techstream the same way). I didn't see that it offered any other way to get the readings ... did you find a pinout somewhere else and measure with a meter? What readings did you see, and under what conditions?

    Freeze-frames were available for two of the codes in the screenshot you posted in #2. Raytheeagle asked in #3 about the inf codes in those freeze-frames. Have you had a chance to retrieve those?

    The essence of the C1256 is the skid ECU is telling you the accumulator/pump system can't get the pressure up and keep it up. The main differential-diagnosis question is: is the skid ECU telling you the truth? (then replace the actuator assembly) or is the skid ECU imagining things (then replace it).

    You should be able to get a pretty good sense one way or the other by doing things that affect the accumulator pressure (like using some up by applying the brakes, and watching the pump bring it back up) and watching the pressure sensor values.
     
  6. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    When I first bought the car it didn’t have any lights but it did have the sound. When I picked up the car following week it had the lights and sound. I have only been able to check measurements on pressure sensors according to the inspection procedure provided earlier in this post. I checked the numbers without knowing a range at a stop with car and engine running. This is where I couldn’t tell what we were dealing with yet.

    current codes are:

    C1241-81
    C1256-143

    Symptoms: accumulator sound 5 secs long ever 10 seconds. Vsc-tire-abs lights on with no serious issues on braking.

    I did notice a mess in the brake reservoir master cylinder area with fluid having shot around but nothing to serious.

    Battery has been detected as being super dead. Sound remains even after putting new battery.

    Picture here shows all the codes I’m getting still.
     

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  7. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Sounds like we have a winner
     
  8. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    Which part is the winner? Lol after researching the time it takes to switch the accumulator I think I’m far from being a winner lol
     
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  9. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    I’ll tackle the accumulator starting tonight. Should be pretty similar to changing a brake booster after removing the power invterter which wasn’t hard at first. If there’s any advice you guys can give me before starting the project feel free to chime in. I will be asking about the bleeding process with techstream as soon as I’m down just FYI
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Something still puzzles me though, because if the "inspection procedure provided earlier in this post" is the two-pager that dolj posted, it only describes how to read one pressure sensor, using the handheld tester (or, nowadays, Techstream). Here you've mentioned checking more than one pressure reading, and you haven't said how. It's harder for us to follow along at home if we can't be sure what you're doing.

    Skid ECU has two separate "systems" inside, this pertains to "system 1". The linear solenoid could not get enough current during braking, or, voltage measured at System 1's BS input dropped below 8.9 V when not braking, for 3 seconds or more, or, the 12 V backup source is measured below 8.5 V when the main relay is opened (again, as measured in the skid ECU), or the output of system 1's internal +5V regulator has gone outside the range 4.7 to 5.3 volts for 50 ms or longer.

    It's worth noting the conditions on the BS input make it clear we're not talking about any sort of imperceptibly brief pulldown of the aux battery voltage by transient currents; if anything pulled down the whole 12 V bus below 8.9 V for 3 seconds or more, you'd certainly notice. That's why a code like this is more likely to be reflecting some issue in how the power gets to the ECU, and the repair manual lists trouble areas like the ABS no. 1 relay, the wire harness and connectors, the backup capacitor source, etc., rather than pointing any fingers at the battery.

    Accumulator pressure is less than 14.62 MPa for at least half a second "when motor relay is malfunctioning" (I'm not sure I trust the English translation here, but this may indicate the ECU has tried to start the pump and hasn't succeeded yet), or the pump is running, nobody's using the brakes, so the pressure ought to be rising, but it's below 14.62 MPa and not rising much over a second or more, or any wheel cylinder pressure was below the target value for at least half a second (so, not just an instant) while braking and the vehicle in motion, and the accumulator pressure is low.

    What are the various voltages shown in your C1241 freeze frame as of the moment the code was recorded? What are the various target and actual pressures in your C1256 freeze frame as of the moment that code was recorded?

    The manual does advise that certain causes of a C1241 might also lead to a C1256 being recorded, so it could be that you have one primary problem and another one secondary to it.
     
  11. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    The readings I got with techstream at a complete stop with a burned out aux battery. When I did the readings I got sub codes too which were: c1241*81 and c1256*143

    When I tried to click on the snowflake it took me to a whole page of live readings. That’s when I tried to read a range and apply brakes, play with the brakes just to see what happens. I was trying to see the correct way to test this thing out but the manual or inspection sheets earlier in post only told me how to do things not so much how to range.

    Currently I’m still confused how exactly to rule out what I’m dealing with. I will replace aux battery later today so we will see
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The snowflake doesn't take you to live readings, it takes you to "freeze frame" readings. That is, it is showing you exactly what all the live readings were at the exact instant the computer decided to log that trouble code. ("Freeze frame" ... snowflake ... get it?)

    To view actual live data happening now, you can use the "live data" button over at the left of the screen.
     
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  13. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    Gotcha lol.
    So, I will be hooking up new battery and I guess attempting to test everything


    These are the freeze frames I gained access to(two) via snowflake.
     

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  14. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    Any suggestions?
     
  15. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    You changed the battery and accumulator and still have a problem?
     
  16. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    I have only changed 12v aux
     
  17. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    I want to know if there is anything I can do to determine the accumulator is bad.
     
  18. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    I’m no Toyota certified mechanic but the fact the pump runs every 10 seconds for 5 seconds seems like the accumulator is bad to me. If anyone here knew they would say.. so change one or the other and see what happens. Sometimes shotgunning a repair is the best you can do. Plus I can assure you it’s still cheaper than taking it to the dealer.
     
  19. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    This the part where I hope someone talks me out of swapping the accumulator out and tells me there’s a good chance it’s the 12v battery lol.
     
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  20. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    If you had a car with a normal pedal operated brake system and the petal went slowly to the floor at a light, what would you do? The accumulator pump is basically the same. It just keeps the pressure in reserve, like a brake booster holds vacuum in reserve until you need it. I think you already know what the problem is. ;)