ICE cooling fan coming on and car power just dies.

Hi folks .... Recently I posted a thread about my P0A80 and P3015 codes being set.
P0A80 and P3015 with cooling fan coming on. | PriusChat

I'm still working on that situation while the car is just sitting in my driveway pending sending my car to Orange county for the guy who did the whack a mole thing for me next week but I did drive the car in my neighborhood a few times to get some groceries (about 4 blocks). It keep setting the same codes on my way home but I just keep clearing the codes. I have ruled out a 12v battery problem so far and the mechanic is going to once again take care of me free of charge as long as I send the car down to him with my AAA. That being said .... I have two other concerns now. First of all I got concerned with the inverter cooling and upon further inspection when the car first starts the wave in the reservoir is virtually non existent but after about 15 minutes the wave is there solid. I've been checking on it since I started having issues with the car about 2 years ago and now something kinda strange is happening. The fluid started coming all of the way up to the top and started spilling out of the little overflow tube. I put my finger in the fluid and it is barely warm. Just as a precaution I ordered a new Toyota OEM pump on EBAY for $59.00 and plan on replacing it myself in the next day or so with the two clamps to pinch the hoses/ removal of the left headlight method.
That being said another strange thing just started happening. On my way back from the store right after the same P0A80 and P3015 codes pop up I now hear the ICE electric fan kick on. Within a block or so the car power just dies. The ICE just shuts down and the car goes into some kind of limp mode where the accelerator pedal becomes non responsive but the car will roll enough to get it back up my driveway...that's it.
I've read in the forums that the GEN 2 doesn't have a true ICE temp sensor that you can monitor but with my Torque pro/ bluetooth setup there is clearly a dial that is labeled "Coolant Temp" and it starts out at 64 degrees and rapidly increases within a minute to 110 degrees. I believe now it is not the actual coolant temp in the radiator but possibly the coolant temp in some other component that has to do with the system warming up.
I just went out to test something and started the car in my driveway. The car went through its normal warm up phase for about 1 minute. No codes .... then within 2 minutes it tossed both P0A80 and P3015 and then the HV Battery cooling fan came on which I fully expected. Block 5 has an issue for sure but what is weird is that the electric fan came on almost at the same time but the water in the radiator is bone cold. I didn't drive the car but what would make the electric fan come on so soon and why does the car instantly go into some kind of failsafe where it becomes un-responsive as soon as the fan comes on?

 

156k sir. And now I do believe that the coolant temp I see with torque pro is the actual temp of the reservoir at cold start up not the actual ICE temp. So weird how the electric fan comes on so soon and pretty much kills the power of the whole system. Im worried to even drive it 4 blocks to the store now...ughh

 

Don't know if this makes any difference but about a year ago she tossed a code for the coolant flow control valve and the mechanic charged me $270.00 to replace it. Code has never came back.

 

One more thing....
About 500 miles ago the car tossed these codes...

C1259 HV system regenerative fault
C1310 Fault in HV system
Fault in ACTV brake booster solenoid

P3011 battery block 1 becomes weak
P0A80 replace hybrid battery

P3000 battery control system

Which I pulled with my buddies snap on scanner which has the ability to read sub codes.

The mechanic told me that he replaced the entire block 1 and re-calibrated the system. Then the car started with all of this other stuff 500 miles later. There also has been a small chirping/ honking noise that comes and goes when you stand on the brake at a stop. He told me that the noise was the brake booster and it is normal with old prius. I haven't heard it recently though.

 

I'm trying to read the codes with torque pro. It's all I have. I know it doesn't read sub codes.

I also wanted to add that about two years ago the car tossed a HV system fault that showed a short between the HV system and the 12v system but the dealer wouldn't do anything until it tossed a sub code.They said Toyota wont authorize the repair until it tosses the sub codes. Hence they (Hamer Toyota) was worried about being paid by toyota until they knew exactly what the problem is. I suspected the transmission was going bad which is common on 2007 gen 2. Then as luck would have it ... just past the 10yr warranty...the trans fried and also took out the HV battery. I paid for a supposed good used transmission and a battery reconditioning.
Cost me 2k at that time.
Bought this car in 2016 for 8k with 104k on it. One owner with all dealer services. Now have another $3500.00 invested in it and it is now worth barely half of what I have invested in it according to KBB. So upside down with the whole ordeal. Feel like I bought a lemon for sure.

 

Just did a current KBB estimate. The car has bluetooth, JBL system, Navi, Backup camera and it's clean inside and out. KBB estimate to a private party is $4990.00 so at this point I might as well keep it since I have so much invested in it and I can't afford to buy another car. Just lost my job in the automotive industry after working at the same company for 35 years.My only income right now is good old unemployment for the first time in my life. Anybody know of someone looking for a good salesman in the automotive industry near the San Fernando valley / Los Angeles area? ....LOL