Why can't I get 8.8kwh miles?

The screenshots should answer your question to the total time yo charge.

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This screenshot shows the actual time of charging. I don't take my my car off of charge. I just leave it plugged in. When I'm ready to leave I take it off. It does no harm. It just shows that you know that the amount of time the car has been plugged in not a total time of charging. Because send the app you can scroll along the timeline in the show Shield when it fully charged. And the time. But the screenshots answer your questions.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

This should answer your question.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Gibberish aside, isn't there actually a potential issue with high currents and coiled power cables? In effect creating a transformer?

 

For single conductors, yes. The magnetic fields in adjacent coils add up.

For double conductors, where the outgoing current in one conductor returns in the adjacent conductor, mostly cancelling out the magnetic fields, then (mostly) no.

 

Mother-in-law had a space heater plugged into a long extension cord that shouldn't have been an issue, but its was coiled up.
The cord was hot, and the plug and receptacle were scorched.

 

The cord was too small for the load, coiled or not.

That said, coiling would have concentrated the heat more than if the cord was spread out. But the plug and receptacle would still have scorched, coiled or not.

 

Now you know we're not all spoofing you. LOL! Seriously, though, it really is nice to see for yourself. Glad you got the meter so you can actually see what's going on.

When the EVSE cable is plugged in to the wall outlet, there is an LED. It takes power to light it. My Duosaida L2 cable has several LEDs and draws even more vampire current than the stock EVSE, so I unplug it from the wall when not in use.

 

Of course it can't do that. I assumed that the 11.7A was while charging and the 0.024A one was after charging. The larger value is labeled "MAX" and the small one is unlabeled and therefore is the instantaneous value. That's how most meters work that store max/min readings.

 

Nope.

 

Just a nit on the capacity figures. I believe that full EV charge is about 85% state of charge. The HV SOC is about 18% to 23%, that is, in HV mode with an "empty" battery" the SOC varies between about 18% and 23%. 8.8kwh is the capacity of the battery. What you are measuring with the multimeter is what is coming in from the wall, not what is going into the battery. There are losses in the charger circuitry (such as in converting from 120VAC to around 400 Volts DC) and and in the battery chemistry of the charging process itself. So you are really charging the battery from around 23% to 85% (.62*8.8=5.46kwh). The rest (6.3-5.5 = 0.8) is dissipated as heat. When charging at 240V, we typically see around 6.0 kwh from the wall, due to charging at 240V being a bit more efficient.

 

I would be very surprised if there was a 0.9 KWh loss during the charge process. In any event, your math is correct - you pay for what comes out of the wall, not how much ends up in the battery. Note that if you have taxes applied on your electric bill, you will need to apply them in your calculation as well for the KWh you used.

 

A full charge of ~6kWh from the wall drive ~25-35 miles of EV range. So you can calculate how much it cost per mile. Rule of the thumb is if the half the cost of a gallon of gas you can by in your local is more than what you pay for a full charge, you will be saving by driving EV.

 

For me, winter is 1 cent per mile and summer is 2 cents per mile on EV from wall.