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2010 Prius Brake, ABS, Traction Control Lights On and Off

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Olscratch, Jan 10, 2020.

  1. Olscratch

    Olscratch Junior Member

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    Sure thing.

    This is my old actuator.
    [​IMG]

    This is what I suspect is the "stroke simulator" nipple that I can't get anything to come out of located on the side of the new actuator.

    [​IMG]

    And these are the codes, with the reservoir level indicator switch disconnected, which is throwing the c1202.

    [​IMG]

    Tried a few different computers now and can't get any of them to stay connected to the vehicle during the brake bleed.
     
  2. borgestes

    borgestes Member

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    ok I am going to attach a picture of an actuator and accumulator with pump for a 2010. what I recommend you do is without the computer bleed the front brakes pumping the pedal like a normal car. Do both front tires. then do the back tires using the computer. First do a health check to wake up all the computers and make sure that's not causing your grief. You only need a few moments to bleed the backs using the computer. Then listen to the pump on the accumulator. What your listening for is it to stop. If it doesn't stop, its because the accumulator is leaking. If memory is correct the stroke simulator is last. In this case skip it for now. See what kind of pedal you can get just doing the four wheels. The thing I am interested in is does the pump start, build up pressure, turn off...then sit there when your doing nothing and suddenly it kicks back on...builds up pressure..then turns off. Or it may not turn off at all. Means you have an accumulator leaking. Don't take the tech stream too serious, its bootlegged software and that's how bootlegged software works. Just barely. But all the bleeding process is doing is pushing the fluid through the system so you can purge the air out of it. Once the air is out, your done and you will have a good pedal. I did the odb2 clip jump to clear the codes and have been driving my car ever since. You never said what part of Texas your in. Good luck and don't stress, you will get it. abs.JPG
     
    #22 borgestes, Feb 4, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It's worth remembering that there are two different hydraulic circuits serving the front brakes, one for normal operation and one for fail-safe. That's why the bleed procedure via Techstream does both back brakes, then both front brakes, then both front brakes again. The first time on the fronts, you push the fluid out by pumping the pedal like any car, and the second time it flows out under its own pressure like doing the rears.

    If you only manual-bleed the fronts, you're only doing one of those circuits.
     
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  4. Olscratch

    Olscratch Junior Member

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    Good info thanks borgestes and ChapmanF. I am in rural East Texas btw, about halfway between Dallas and Houston.

    Before swapping out the actuator the pump was making the noise frequently. After doing the swap its just a solid long noise that goes for a couple minutes then just stops. It isn't building any pressure I suppose. Also nonstop frequent beeping coming from under the dash as soon as I turn on the ignition.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    There's fluid in the reservoir and nothing obstructing the hose from the reservoir down to the pump, right?

    It might seem funny to ask, but some things I've done ....
     
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  6. Olscratch

    Olscratch Junior Member

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    Ok problem solved. I went out and stared at it a while and realized the red brake line going into the actuator is supposed to be the 2nd from the bottom not where I had put it, the 2nd from the top. Switched the two lines and voila the beeping stopped and the pump started acting normally and the accumulator pressure normalized and I was able to get through most of the techstream actuator depressurization and repressurization measures. The techstream did cut out before it finished so I've still got to figure that out. It seems very finicky if there is any code. Techstream says to disable the master reservoir switch but unplugging it kept preventing techstream from getting to the final tests.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I once went through a Techstream bleed sequence with my Mini VCI, and I got "lost communications with vehicle" like five times in a row, usually right during the final step where it empties and refills the accumulator six times. Sometimes it would be on the sixth and final refill when it happened, go back to start, do not collect $200. Which did not please me, because I knew I was putting like 30 extra full empty/fill cycles on the accumulator. On my sixth try it got all the way through.

    Between then and the next time I wanted to bleed anything, I bought an Openport and it got me through my next brake bleed with no difficulty.

    There's more information on the Openport at the links above. Beware that they are also at the mercy of counterfeiters just like XHorse was. If you buy an Openport, please do not buy a counterfeit one, or they will end up just like the Mini VCI and we'll be right back here again. You should be looking at around $169 if it's a real one from Tactrix's site.
     
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  8. Olscratch

    Olscratch Junior Member

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    That is exactly when mine is cutting out, during the refills and I haven't made it past about number 5 yet. Thanks for the info on getting a more legit setup! I will be investing in Openport soon.

    Can you or anyone give me more information on the "Stroke Simulator" bleed part? Was that nipple I pointed out the correct one? I still haven't got anything to bleed out of it and on techstream I was just skipping that step.
    I have no idea how or where to bleed the "Stroke Simulator".
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That is the right bleed port. I have no insight into why there wouldn't be fluid there by now. You're using the longer-bleed-sequence choice in Techstream, right?

    The brakes sure aren't going to feel like you want, if the stroke simulator's airlocked.

    To be honest, I'm not sure how confident Toyota is about the ability of their field bleed sequence to get all air out of an actuator, even using the longer sequence. I think when they sell a new actuator, it's already fluid filled and with the ports capped. Their recall instructions for an accumulator leaking nitrogen were to change just the accumulator if there were no codes for gas getting into the actuator, but otherwise to go ahead and replace both.
     
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  10. Olscratch

    Olscratch Junior Member

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    Yes I have been choosing the option that says ABS Actuator Replaced instead of the Normal Air Bleed option. Do you think I should find something that will put a vacuum or suction on that stroke simulator bleed port? The brakes felt pretty normal just pressing the pedal, havent actually tried driving it.
     
  11. borgestes

    borgestes Member

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    High five to you!! Glad you got it worked out.
     
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  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Wouldn't be a crazy thing to try.
     
  13. dulguun gereltuya

    dulguun gereltuya Junior Member

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    SAME SHIT HAPPENED TO ME AFTER BUYIING USED 10 197K USED PRIUS MONTH AGO FOR 5G I CANT AFFORD 3K FIX IF I smart BUY USED smart PART FROM EBAY DO I HAVE TO REPROGRAM IT OR SOMETHING? CAN I INSTALL 13 14 15 PRIUS BRAKE BOOSTER? ON MY SHIT
     
  14. varun singh

    varun singh Member

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    What is your model year ? If 2011+, you may eligible for warranty until Aug 31 2021 irrespective of mileage.
     
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