12v battery issues & replacement

It sounds like it's 12 volt replacement time.

Good lick and stay safe in NEPA.

 

I found this while at a Costco one day, it was on sale at the time:


https://www.costco.com/duracell-4-amp-battery-charger-and-maintainer.product.100479359.html

If the battery is ever found that low in voltage, it should be replaced, per Toyota tech documents.

Yes, you can put a charger on the jump points, just be careful when disconnecting the battery, in particular the positive pole. I’d immediately place the connection into a doubled zip lock bag...

 

Yes. WAY past time for a new battery.
I would NOT trust a charger connected while the battery is out.......because the voltage might spike up too high.
I would also not worry about loosing any settings. It is often good to do a "cold boot".

 

It's more'n likely toast. If you want to see how toasty, and be more ready for the next time, look into electronic load testers, Solar BA9 is about $50~60 in the States.

 

auto parts and batteries plus stores have good ones if they are closer. no problem leaving the charger on the jump point

 

Regarding #2:

Right after charging, (with the correct amp rated charger), turn on the high beams for 30 seconds. After turning them off measure the voltage at the battery posts. I can't recall the values, but I posted the instructions somewhere in this forum...

moto g(7) power ?

 

I would not worry about that at all. I'm curious to know if anyone has an actual answer to this, but I have noticed that virtually all car manufacturers put a similar, ridiculously low limit on charging, especially when the battery is inside the vehicle. Concern is probably due to a potential rare problem, and the lawyers make them say this - the workaround being to charge at an ultra low rate or remove the battery from the car while charging it at a normal rate.

The thing is, though, that when the car itself is charging the battery, it puts FAR much more than that artificially low limit into the battery. So if one were to "jump-start" the 12V battery to get the car started, and let the car's DC-DC converter charge the 12V battery up to 14+V, as it does, it will be putting far more in there. I don't remember numbers, but I measured this with a clamp ammeter when figuring things out on my car soon after getting it. On normal cars, with 100+ Amp alternators, it is very common to put 100+ Amps into the battery, charging it up after sitting for a while and starting the engine. And those same cars will have similar excessively protective procedures for external charging - e.g., remove battery.

I don't think anyone will try to talk you out of that. Mine is a 2012 as well. Got it last September. In trying to optimize my cars+batteries, I swapped in an Optima battery I had in a rarely used car, putting the Prius battery in that other car. Worked fine, and then when a deal came up, I bought a nice new AGM for that other car, turning in the Prius battery for the core deposit, even though it was working and testing just fine as I could tell.

Regarding figuring out if your existing battery is any good, you will find parts stores with their magic machines the size of a voltmeter that do a test for 25 milliseconds and give you their answer. Other interweb people will give you a table of voltage measurements (a static test, with absolutely no test conditions specified, BTW, which may be a clue to how useful it is), nicely color coded to red yellow and green.

But the real factor that kills batteries towards the end of their life is something that takes some time. They lose their "capacity." You can't measure that in an instant, or even by waiting for 25 milliseconds. Capacity tells you how much charge can be stored. One way to test would be to put load on the battery and see how quickly the voltage drop (i.e., a test taking fractions of an hour, not milliseconds). Another way, if starting with a low / dead battery is to put a charger on it and see how much time it takes to charge. If your 7V battery can charge up to 12.6V in 10 minutes before the float starts, that is a good measurement that the battery capacity is deficient.

As sam spade 2 mentioned above, there is a possibility that the charger will put out voltage pulses that may confuse or damage the car's electronics. I'm a pretty cautious guy that would rather lose my radio presets than risk creating an electronics problem that will haunt me forever. So I would not risk it. Many others will do it with no problems. So one factor to consider is what you're giving up by disconnecting the battery - radio presets or more? If you want the best of everything, you could use a spare battery (everyone has at least one of these, right?) to jumper to the fuse box jump port, and hook the charger to that spare battery. The spare battery will buffer any voltage spikes, while also maintaining voltage. Similarly, if you have a jump pack, that should effectively buffer it.

 

all good. high cca is a good think

 

I heard high CCA comes at a cost of lowered amp hours, is achieved with more but thinner plates. I don't really understand, but get the sense the OEM specs are the optimum.

That said I went with Optima Yellow Top. Next time around I might go with a Canadian Tire option that is sim to OEM, but cheaper.

 

The manual says 5 amps, but if you take a look at the actual Toyota battery it's label says something lower, 4.2 A max I believe.

You can charge the battery at the proper amp rating by driving the car/turning on in READY mode. Turn the car off, high beams on for 30 secs, then measure battery voltage. (You'll just use the engine/fuel to do this)...

moto g(7) power ?