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Diagnosis Help??

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by paul skinner, Apr 11, 2020.

  1. paul skinner

    paul skinner New Member

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    My 2010 Prius developed an issue recently (I've not had it very long) but my dash lit up with several lights, and my regen went away. Its an ABS issue obviously, so I got the codes pulled with a Techstream. The Techstream gave me code c1391 and said "Abnormal leak at accumulator." So what I'm looking for on here is some help in making sure I'm looking at the right part. The pump buzzes frequently in short intervals. What I'm thinking the code says (and what I'm hearing from the car) seems to indicate that the accumulator/actuator (the part below the actual brake master cylinder) is going bad. Does that seem right to people here? I'm just trying to make sure I know which part(s) to order so that I can fix this issue.

    Thanks y'all
     
  2. tankyuong

    tankyuong Senior Member

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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It is harder than you might think to be sure of where the problem is based on what you're describing.

    You're looking at these two parts:

    [​IMG]

    Diagrammatically, it's this:

    [​IMG]

    where that lower part (booster pump/accumulator assembly) is just the two bottle-shaped things (accumulator and pump motor) shown way up in the top right of the diagram.

    Nearly all the other action you see there (the three sensors, fourteen little valves, master cylinder and booster itself) happens in the upper, larger assembly.

    Now, if the accumulator isn't holding pressure and the pump has to frequently run, usually the story is that brake fluid is dribbling past an imperfectly-closing valve and finding its way through the return passages back up into the reservoir.

    There's one or two of those little valves in the pump/accumulator itself, but the majority of them are inside the actuator assembly.

    What that means is that really either assembly could be at fault.

    Some people come here with a problem so pronounced that the pump has to run every few seconds.

    When the leaking is that fast, I would bet you can probably tell with a mechanic's stethoscope which assembly it's in.

    If it's a lot slower, that might be harder.

    There are also options in Techstream for twiddling individual valves to see what happens.
     
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  4. pjksr02

    pjksr02 Active Member

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    Have you had all the recall items performed? One was the accumulator.
     
  5. paul skinner

    paul skinner New Member

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    Ok guys, thanks. The pump is running (when the codes are present) every 10 or 15 seconds. As far as the recall, I checked and I have one that's actually in that freaking 3% that wasn't affected, visually confirmed by the label placement on the accumulator. I wasn't sure what those settings in techstream were going to be doing, so I haven't played with them yet.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    As in, you're just sitting there, the car is READY, you're not doing anything, nobody is touching the brakes, and the pump is cycling on 10 or 15 seconds?

    Grab a mechanic's stethoscope and touch the two assemblies in various places (during 10 quiet seconds when the pump isn't running). Leak probably sounds like Niagara.
     
  7. paul skinner

    paul skinner New Member

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    Yes, when its in ready (or even NOT in ready) no one in it, the pump kicks on roughly every 10 or 15 seconds, while I have the codes cleared (to see if it was just a glitch) it doesn't pulse as often, but when the error code returns it goes back to the same.
    When I was sitting in the car, just hooked up to techstream, not doing anything, it does pulse the pump every 10 to 15 seconds.
    I can hear a hissing sound, in that area when I lean down to look.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    If it's failing, regardless of label orientation and VIN range or whatever, I would not go quietly. Talk to service manager (try several if needed) for starters, escalate as required.
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Not surprising. But your unaided ear probably can't distinguish which of the two assemblies there is producing the hissing sound. That's where a mechanic's stethoscope comes in, or even a long screwdriver pressed against your ear.

    Both assemblies are expensive and tedious to replace, but the benefit of replacement is higher for the one where the problem is.
     
  10. paul skinner

    paul skinner New Member

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    That's certainly a tool I'll be picking up tomorrow, just to make sure... If need be I am prepared to replace both, but I'm planning to make sure which it is (or both) before I crank the first wrench, that way I can have all the parts and supplies needed before I begin, so that its a one time teardown. I do have a question, a mechanic friend (he has worked for Ford and Dodge not Toyota) said he thought the part/s might have to be reprogrammed after the new ones get swapped in; any insights on this one?
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I don't think so. There will probably be a code posted about wanting to 'learn' a parameter called the linear solenoid offset, but that's easy. You basically say "ok, do so", and it sits there for about a minute making increasingly loud squishing and releasing noises, and then it's learned.
     
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  12. paul skinner

    paul skinner New Member

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    OK... I just got done installing a new Brake Actuator (accumulator was actually ok, you were right, leaking bad at the line that runs to the abs accumulator) but now I've run into a new problem. I'm hoping that its just an ID 10 T error on my part. I reconnected the 12 v battery and then put the hybrid safety plug back in. When I try to start the car it pops up a "Check Hybrid System" message on the display. Any ideas what I might have done that's kicking that error? I'm done for the day (probably tomorrow too with weather) so I'll reconnect everything and check codes with techstream next time I'm out there.
     
  13. paul skinner

    paul skinner New Member

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    Update: It was indeed an ID 10 T error. I forgot to lock the hybrid battery plug in when i put it back. Codes pointed me to the problem. Once I fixed it, the error code cleared and she started right up. Accumulator cycling at the correct intervals now, just have to finish bleeding the brakes and put the wiper assembly back on and she's back up and running. Thanks guys, for all the help in this matter.
     
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  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats!(y)