When I Removed Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor and replaced it, I realized that the real

dealership?

 

There is a number molded into the connector shell, most on a GenII Prius have a prefix of "90980", so the actual number would be 90980-xxxxx, where "xxxxx" is the number on your connector shell.

Looking at the official Toyota diagrams, it appears it my be Connector "W5", if so p/n 90980-10988 (harness side).

 

Here's an example of what you find in the wiring diagram (more info)—caution: this is a different connector for a different circuit, it's just an example!



The 90980- number you see up at the top is the number for the plastic housing. I don't see anything wrong with your plastic housing, right? You just had a wire break off at the terminal?

So once you find the housing number in the wiring diagram, you click on the [+] Wire Harness Repair just below it, and it expands to [-] Wire Harness Repair and shows you the repair terminal details.

Notice it shows you the part number for the repair terminal itself (usually starts with 82998) and also shows that the repair terminal, in this case, comes attached to 500 mm of wire. That lets you cut off the old bad terminal and enough wire to get back to good copper, and make your splice there. You can see it also shows you the part number of the splicing sleeve to use (Toyota's are parallel splices, which for some reason are hard to find in most auto parts stores, where you find pretty much nothing other than butt splices). It also shows you how the terminal locks into the housing, which you need to know (mostly for getting the old one out, the new one will just slip in and click).

Most of the connectors are the "double lock" type, which means there is an overall lock for the whole connector that you have to undo, and then each terminal is held in place with its own "lance", which is sometimes part of the metal terminal and clicks into the housing; sometimes it's part of the housing and clicks into the terminal. Where that example here says "housing lance", it means it's the second kind.

This post here gives a longer example of finding your way around the wiring diagram to get to the connector and terminal details.

Again, these are just examples, not the right numbers for your connector (well, not unless it happens to use the same terminals, but that's not a bet I'd make).

 

P1123 really means the CCV is stuck, but the ECM will not try and move it forever, only a couple seconds. If there is something stuck in the valve, or even if it is just "tight" (not an OEM valve for example), this can happen. The ECM monitors the valve position, if it fails to move withing the time allowed after command, the fault sets.

 

Unless I missed it, nothing you've posted here tells us what code (or codes) you had that started this adventure, or what code or codes you now have. Your post about trying the part number and getting a not-your-year message doesn't say what part number you tried. The post about having fixed the wiring issue doesn't say how you fixed it.

As a stackoverflow profile might say, you seem to like to keep an air of mystery.

If you fill us in a little, we might be able to help more.

Probably, looking up the whatever-codes-you-have in the repair manual (more info), and following the troubleshooting steps you find there, will be a reliable way of figuring out your issue.

 

It's in the "tags" part, above the initial post, presuming P1123 is correct of course.

 

Ok, if P1123 is the code you're getting, it means the water valve position sensor reading has stayed above 4.8 volts for two seconds or longer at a time when the ECU was trying to move the valve and thus the sensor voltage should have been changing.

The first task in diagnosing it is to find out why that is. Maybe the valve really isn't moving. Maybe it is, but the sensor is bad. Maybe the valve and sensor are fine but there is a wiring defect somewhere between the sensor and the ECM. The wiring defect could be a short in the WBAD circuit or an open in the E2 circuit, or VC and WBAD bridged together somewhere. Or the ECM itself could have a bad sensor input or another fault.

There won't be anybody who can tell you how to "fix it" before knowing what "it" is, the problem that's causing the over-4.8-volts reading in your car. And nobody will know what "it" is without rolling up some sleeves, grabbing a multimeter, and going to the car to find out. There are six pages of suggested steps in the repair manual for doing that.

 

Mostly the purpose of that valve is to speed cold-engine warmup and improve emissions.

When the ECM realizes it can't trust the sensor and doesn't know the position of the valve, its error action is to stop trying to move the valve, and just leave it in whatever position it's in (which we can't be sure of, because of the dodgy sensor reading).

Depending on what position that is, you might have some trouble getting cabin heat if you need it. Doesn't look like there would be any other serious consequence.